1st Traxide Discovery 4 specific dual battery kit

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and this is an update on my D4 Dual Battery Kits.

The D4 kits on my web site can be fitted to either D3s or D4s but are specifically designed for D4s up to MY13 models.

But with the auxiliary battery compartment being available in the MY14 D4s, you now have a choice of either a D4 specific DBS kit, supplied with a battery tray, or you can now fit any of my D3 kits or the D3 Triple Battery Kits in a MY14 D4.

I have just upgraded all my D3 and D4 kits, making them almost completely Plug-N-Play which means they are easier and quicker to fit and there is a much more informative set of installation instructions supplied with each kit.

These new instruction contain for more photos of the installation techniques use to carry out a kit fitting, make the whole installation a much simpler job.

For more info on my D3 and D4 kits, please check out my web site.

[discomaniac]

Looks good to me. Just for feed back, as for 2nd battery in rear, I would prefer removable and something that can be tied down. No Rush, won't be getting the D4 until 2nd half of this year.

Thanks.
Discomaniac.

[drivesafe]

Hi Discomaniac, all going well I will have 4 to 6 new D4 kits by the end of this coming week.

These kits will be set up for a number of combinations of Dual Battery Systems for the D4 but will also fit the D3.

I’ll list everything about the new kits here by the end of the week.

The biggest hold-up has been the installation instructions, and so far I’ve take over 200 of the D4 and at least 50 are in the new instructions

BTW, I am also working on a battery box, with extras, that while being developed for the D4 ( and D3 ) should be of interest to anyone looking at using a removable battery set up.

[AGRO]

Hi,

I wish install a dual battery system in a D4 due for delivery mid year.

I've looked at your post wrt D4 battery install and found it very informative.

However, there is no mention of an auxilary battery in the engine compartment of the D4. Is this intentional?

Are the Dual battery kits you've planned similar to previous D3 kits with back load space sockets etc as per the SC80-LR Plug & Play Kit + the LR Full Power Cable Kit?

Thanks

Agro

[drivesafe]

Hi AGRO, if you decide to move the module in the auxiliary battery compartment, then any of my D3 dual battery kit can be used as the set up is identical.

I have produced the D4 kits for dealers and people who decide against moving the module and choose to fit a battery in the rear cargo area and/or want to charge camper trailer or caravan batteries while on the move.

So AGRO you have a number of options and for those with a D3 and want to install a larger auxiliary battery in the rear cargo area instead on a small auxiliary battery under the bonnet, then any of the D4 kits can be used.

[DISCO 4]

Next week is the big day for delivery of my Disco 4. I am looking forward to seeing your setup for a battery mounted in the rear of the vehicle. Have my first trip planned to leave Perth 01/06/10 and need a set up by then, hope you can help.

Cheers

[Blknight.aus]

Drivesafe, I've been meaning to ask...

if you're setting up for people with caravans are you providing any current limiting in the unit for people who are running gels in the van as deep cycles?

The medium size gels are starting to make an appearance in some of the campers with low power demands.

One of the snorkers at work bought a camper that had a gel battery to run the radio and lights, he cooked the battery by coupling its charge socket to the charge socket on the back of his 4b when it went flat. The battery's been replaced under warranty and he's been advised to only charge it with the supplied regulator or a 30w solar panel but he wants to be able to top up on the move.

[drivesafe]

Hi Blknight, and I usually get asked about what batteries to fit where and I go the other way and just advise them to fit either flooded wet cells or if there not likely to look after the batteries properly when the're not in use or if the batteries have to be mounted in a confined space I recommend the use of AGMs.

I never recommend gel cells, just don’t like them. They are way to finicky.

[Blknight.aus]

While I dont normally recommend them either I think I've found the niche that they are going to fill for the foreseeable future

in a small camping trailer/caravan as a stand alone 12v supply intended to run a handfull of led lights and a car radio charged up by a small panel or a plug pack.

I was surprised to learn that its cheaper ro get a gel in the same capacity of an oversized motorbike battery than it is to get the flooded version.

[DISCO 4]

Hi Drivesafe,
On the 4th of Feb you said that an auxiliary battery system would be ready soon, any progress?

[drivesafe]

Hi Disco, there are now a number of kits ready I just have not had time to post them up on my web site.

The only thing I have not got ready yet is the battery box to go in the rear of the D4 ( or D3 )

Let me know what you are after and I give you details of what kit I have that will suit your needs.

[Watpub]

Hi Drivesafe,

I'm about to take delivery of a D4 (well June anyway). I intend to have my Waeco fridge in the back and also tow a caravan with an inhouse battery - the van's already been wired up with a 50amp Andersen plug from when I towed it previously with my Landcruiser.

Is your multi-battery charging system the way to go? I'm planning on having an auxiliary battery in the cargo area at the rear (I assume there's no room for one in the engine bay).

The problem I have is that I had a Landcruiser with a Rotronics system. I was told that when you have two auxiliary batteries they only charge to the maximum capacity of the one with the lowest capacity - is this true? Is it best to have both auxiliary batteries the same or doesn't it matter?

Also, I'm planning to give your kit to the local car sparky up the road and I'm assuming they should be able to install it without too many hassles.

Sorry for the dumb questions - but I'm no electrical expert!

Thanks

Ron

[drivesafe]

The problem I have is that I had a Landcruiser with a Rotronics system. I was told that when you have two auxiliary batteries they only charge to the maximum capacity of the one with the lowest capacity - is this true?

Hi Ron, first off this is nothing more than a total fabrication and is put up by companies trying to con unsuspecting potential customers into buying grossly expensive dual battery systems that actually don’t perform as well as the standard isolator types do.

Add to this the fact that your D4 comes with a huge 180 amp alternator, you will have no problems charging a number of batteries at the same time.

As to your requirements, I have a full cable kit for the D4 that supplies all the cable and hardware to allow for charging your battery in the rear cargo area and a battery or two in your camper trailer or caravan.

The kit also comes with all the hardware needed to fit two new cigarette type power sockets in the rear cargo area and the entire kit can be fitted with the only holes needed to be cut being for the two power sockets.

These kits are very simple to fit and the only tools needed is a standard terminal crimping tool, used for ordinary insulated crimp terminals, a drill to make the holes for the two power sockets, a spanner and a set of side cutters.

NOTE, all the heavy gauge cable terminals are pre-installed so you don’t need any special tools to be able to fit this kit.

Ron, you need no auto electrical skills what so ever and if you have the most basic DIY handyman skills, you can easily fit this kit yourself.

The kit comes with comprehensive step by step installation instruction with loads of picture to guide you through the installation process.

As to your auxiliary batteries, it make absolutely no difference as wether you have identical or dissimilar auxiliary batteries, you will charge them all without any problems.

BTW, there no such thing as dumb questions, if you don’t ask, you don’t learn!

[Watpub]

As to your requirements, I have a full cable kit for the D4 that supplies all the cable and hardware to allow for charging your battery in the rear cargo area and a battery or two in your camper trailer or caravan.

The kit also comes with all the hardware needed to fit two new cigarette type power sockets in the rear cargo area and the entire kit can be fitted with the only holes needed to be cut being for the two power sockets.

Hi Drivesafe,
Many thanks for this. This sounds perfect for what I want.

I thought I'd play it safe giving the job to an auto sparky - I do have some skills in installing driving lights, radios, etc in other cars. What I'm finding with LandRovers (remember I'm coming from a LandCruiser background) is that dealers and companies like ARB scare the b-jeezus out of you telling you "you'll blow the computers if you touch the electricals!".

If you could let me know your product code for this and the price (inc delivery to Melbourne) I'll either email or pm an order.
Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron, the kit is the D4 Caravan FPC kit and is $430 ( which includes postage ).

The only thing you need is your battery box and battery.

The kit includes a 1 metre pre-assembled cable to connect to your battery in the battery box. I will also be fitting an circuit breaker in-line in this 1m cable to simplify the connection to the battery.

[DISCO 4]

Hi Drivesafe

I'm not too sure what I want long term but would be happy with an auxiliary battery set up in the rear of my D4 to run fridge etc whilst camping. Your system appears a good solution.
Please advise details.

James

[drivesafe]

Hi james, this kit is now available and is $430 including express post.

Just send me a PM when your ready to order.

Cheers, Tim.

[DISCO 4]

Hi Tim,

As discussed, please send me your bank details so we can order.

James

[Dorko]

Any pics you can email me? or post here

Dorko

[drivesafe]

Hi Dorko, sorry mate, all the info should have been put up on my web site by now but I’m so busy I haven’t had the time to put all the info together.

Anyway, Here are some pics of the D4 kit and how it looks fitted.

NOTE, the D4 kits also fit into a D3 in the same way.

This is what is supplied in the Kit.

This is the control module and the 50 amp circuit breaker, which is mounted in the small plastic box which means no exposed terminals.

http://www.traxide.com.au/D4/D4-Kit-6 copy.jpg



This is the Pre-Assembled main cable loom.

http://www.traxide.com.au/D4/D4-Kit-4b copy.pdf



This is the Pre-Assembled rear mounted battery box cable loom and again, the 50 amp circuit breaker, is mounted in the small plastic box so there are no exposed terminals.

http://www.traxide.com.au/D4/D4-Kit-5 copy.jpg



This is the 120 amp Anderson plug fitted in the rear for connection to the battery box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



This is how the battery box looks when mounted in the rear cargo area and is connected to the main loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



This is how the rear battery cable loom looks once fitted

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



When not in use, the Anderson plug is tucked away inside the Jack Compartment.

http://www.traxide.com.au/D4/Jack-Box-9 copy.jpg



This is the Anderson plug at the back of the D4

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/



All the heavy duty cable terminals are pre-installed so you only need some basic handyman tools to carry out an installation

http://www.traxide.com.au/D4/Rear-Cable-1 copy.jpg

[DISCO 4]

Hi Dorko,

I'm in the middle of installing the Traxide kit as per the photos sent in by drivesafe. The instructions and support from Traxide are very good, strongly recommended.

[Dorko]

The quality looks great, but i dont like the fact i have a a battery floating in the back.... but i guess i could live with it...

With this kit, does the car charge the main battery first, before charging the second battery?

Thank you for the replies so far :)

Dorko

[drivesafe]

With this kit, does the car charge the main battery first, before charging the second battery?

No, with the 180 amp alternator the D4s come with, you could easily charge 5 or more low batteries at the same time, so it’s quicker to be charging both the cranking and auxiliary batteries at the same time.

As to the battery in the rear cargo area, the battery box is secured to one of the 4 anchor points in the floor of the D4, so the battery box is quite safe.

[Watpub]

Hi Tim,

Just for anyone querying quality and value for money, I've had dual battery systems from ARB and Rotronics in the past and I've got to admit yours is tops for value and quality. (PS I expect that cheque in the mail anyday! ;) Only kidding)

Three questions though. What would you recommend for a battery to keep a Waeco 60litre humming along for about 2-3 days? You save you've secured your battery box to an achor point - did you use a strap for this? Finally, do you have any recommendations for a battery box or have you just gone for one of those standard plastic jobs sold at boat dealers and the like?

Thanks mate, sorry for being a pest. Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron, I’m developing a battery box which will have a few different types of plugs fitted and a low voltage shut down to protect he battery from over discharging, but it’s all on back burner for the time being as I’m flat out.

But, the box I have is a standard plastic battery box, just that I source mine through a company that brings them in from the USA. These are US Coast Guard and ABYC approved.

This may be going a bit over the top but their not that much dearer than the ordinary ones available here.

The box comes with a Tiedown belt and thats what I have been using to secure the battery box in the back of the D4.

As to the battery, well I’ve been running three batteries at the same time, in the back of the D4, to check the load capacity of the new kits, once installed.

I have a D34 Optima AGM, a sealed maintenance free and a flooded wet cell deep cycle Allrounder all paralleled together and they all work and charge well.

So, use what ever battery that meets your needs.

I personally still prefer flooded wet cell batteries, but thats just my choice.

BTW, when my new battery box set up is ready, the box will be available in Black or White and I strongly recommend AGAINST the White. What a pain to keep clean.

[Watpub]

Wow Tim sounds like you're carrying a bit of weight on board with all of those batteries!

Thanks for the info. I assume you'll post here when the box is available so I'll keep my eyes peeled.

Regards, Ron

[Disomania]

I've been reading up on batteries a little and found out some interesting things about charging, and have been reading the bit in 4x4 about them too.

I never knew that you needed different voltages for different battery types. Does your kit have a voltage regulator that can be set for different battery types? I was surprised to read (in several locations) that the gel batteries can be damaged by 14.7v as they 'like' 14.1 or 14.2 (can't remember off the top of my head).

Could explain why my expensive battery died in my last Disco - I bought a gel to replace the wet cell that lasted 7yrs and it died in 2! So much for lasting longer, but I now may have an explanation as to why.

[drivesafe]

Hi Discomania, first off, I’m still a big fan of good old fashion Flooded Wet Cell batteries.

Contrary to much of the hype out there about how good AGMs are and how SUPPOSEDLY bad Flooded Wet Cells are ( crap put out by the sellers of AGM batteries I suspect ), Flooded Wet Cell batteries are far more robust in a number of key areas.

They tolerate higher charge voltages, they are self current regulating, they withstand rough driving conditions far better than most other types of batteries, and best of all, they are usually heaps cheaper than other types of batteries.

Now to the charge voltages of different batteries.

While any of my controllers can charge any type of auxiliary battery but if that battery happens to be a non automotive specific AGM, most AGM batteries used in RV set ups are not automotive specific. In other words, they were NOT made for automotive use, then my controller offer no over voltage protection for these types of batteries.

Problem is that it does not matter what type of isolator you use, if over voltage by itself does not destroy these types of batteries, a combination of over voltage, over charge current and heat will.

The instant you move any battery into the cab of a vehicle or to a camper trailer or caravan, the battery‘s life expectancy improves dramatically.

This improvement is brought about by a number of factors.

Because the batteries are now in a low temperature climate, they can actually tolerate slightly higher voltages.

Because there is now a much longer cable run, this will reduce the charging voltage and the charging current levels which in turn helps to protect the battery(s) and this means my controllers don’t need to regulate the charge voltages.

Hope this answers your question for you.

[Disomania]

I used to think I knew a thing or two about batteries, but the more I think I've learned, the less I really do know!

Thanks for the info, most useful

[drivesafe]

Traxide Tronics Discovery 3 & 4 Dual Battery Kits
All prices include GST and Postage.

Additional Imformation can be found on my web site at :- DUAL BATTERY SYSTEMS (http://www.traxide.com.au/DBS.html)

Discovery 3 Specific Kits ( can also be fitted to a D4 if an auxiliary battery is fitted in the auxiliary battery compartment )

D3 Kit A - basic Plug-&-Play Kit RRP$240
This kit has the controller, cables and battery bracket for an engine bay installation only

D3 Kit B - TPSE RRP$340
This kit has the SC80 P-&-P kit plus cabling and hardware to install two power sockets in the rear cargo area.

D3 Kit C - HCE RRP$340
This kit has the SC80 P-&-P kit plus cabling and hardware to install a 50 amp Anderson plug at the rear, to power a caravan.

D3 Kit D - FPC RRP$399
This kit is a combination of all three kits above


Discovery 4 Specific Kits ( can also be fitted to a D3 if an auxiliary battery is NOT being fitted in the auxiliary battery compartment )

D4 Kit 1 - Rear Battery Kit RRP$310
This kit has the controller and cables to connect to a battery mounted in the rear cargo area.

D4 Kit 2 - CARAVAN Kit RRP$320
This kit has the controller and cabling and hardware to install a 50 amp Anderson plug at the rear, to power a caravan.

D4 Kit 3 - Rear Bat+TPSE Kit RRP$360
This kit has the controller and cables to connect to a battery mounted in the rear cargo area + install two power sockets in the rear cargo area.

D4 Kit 4 - VAN & Battery Kit RRP$380
This kit has the controller and cabling and hardware to install a 50 amp Anderson plug at the rear, to power a caravan and to connect to a battery mounted in the rear cargo area.

D4 Kit 5 - VAN & FPC Kit RRP$430
This kit is a combination of all four kits above

NOTE, I now have a Plastic Battery Box for these kits, it's $35, including postage

Traxide Tronics, ( 07 ) 5569 2557
TRAXIDE TRONICS (http://www.traxide.com.au)

[Duck's Guts]

Drivesafe,

I am interested in your D4 Kit 5.
I have a battery box (100ah 780cca AGM) already fitted with a 50amp anderson plug for charging, which will reside in the D4 rear.

I also am waiting for an ARB winch bar & Warn 9.5XP winch, expecting install by end-August.

Looking at your website I noticed several wiring schematics showing multiple battery installations for winch operation.

What would you recommend as a multiple battery circuit?
(I am prepared to do the modifications necessary to fit an additional battery in the engine bay as described elsewhere on the forum if you believe that would be beneficial.)

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and opinion.

Cheers,
Marc...

[drivesafe]

Hi Marc, you would be looking at a special set up but thats what I do.

If your planning on putting the second battery in what was the auxiliary battery compartment in a D3, I already have a pre assembled kit for the D3, that was never put into production, but gives you a 250 amp marine battery switch with 35mm2 cable to allow the second battery to be connected to the cranking battery for winching and jump starting.

Let me know a few more details and I‘ll give you an idea of what can be done.

Cheers, Tim.

[Duck's Guts]

Hi Tim,
Rather than trade posts, I'll call you during business hrs on 07-5569-2557 (unless advised otherwise).
FYI: I still would like the equivalent D4 Kit 5 set-up in the rear cargo area and plug for caravan AND the second battery under the hood linked to the main battery for winching. Also advice re what battery for the second battery under the hood.
Thanks & cheers,
Marc...

[drivesafe]

Hi Tim,
Rather than trade posts, I'll call you during business hrs on 07-5569-2557 (unless advised otherwise).

Works for me and it ends up being a lot quicker sorting all the questions at once.

Cheers.

[Watpub]

Hi Tim,

Sniegy and the boys at Melbourne Landrover fitted the dual battery kit into the D4 for me a couple of weeks ago and it's an absolute cracker. I'm just building a base for my fridge slide and the battery so that everything is tight and secure.

Just a quick question though. I have an 80w fold out solar panel that I used for camping quite a few years ago. If I whack an Anderson plug on the end and plug it into the Anderson socket installed externally at the rear of the vehicle (for charging the caravan) will it charge the aux battery in the rear of the D4 without interfering with any other electrics? Does your unit isolate the main battery or does that accept a charge as well?

Regards, Ron

[Disomania]

I have a question about location of the aux battery box. I was wondering if it might fit under the rear seats? If you fold the bas forward, there is a lot of space under there. Was also wondering if a battery pack could be constructed that would fit under the blanking panel that the 5 seaters have? I have an expired 'thumper' battery that uses 4 x 20 amp batteries and some electronic wizzbangery to controll things, so by building a block of these in a tray, say 8 x 2 with some expert made/supplied circuits.... would this be feasable?

[drivesafe]

I have an 80w fold out solar panel that I used for camping quite a few years ago. If I whack an Anderson plug on the end and plug it into the Anderson socket installed externally at the rear of the vehicle (for charging the caravan) will it charge the aux battery in the rear of the D4 without interfering with any other electrics?

Hi Ron, if you connect the solar panel the way you are suggesting, it will charge both batteries and this is actually a better way of charging.

You will not effect the electronics in the vehicle unless the batteries are over charged and that is highly unlikely when charging two batteries of a single 80 panel.

Cheer, Tim.

[drivesafe]

Hi Disomania, if the smaller batteries fit, then you can wire as many 12 volt batteries together that will fit in the location.

You could even place the batteries in different spots just as long as they are wired in parallel, it doesn’t matter how many you fit.

Kimberly Kampers use to come with as many as 10 small AGMs, all wired in parallel and although the location is different, the principal is the same.

No matter how many batteries you put in a parallel set up, they will all charge as one single battery.

[Disomania]

If you don't go the 7 seat option in the 2.7, they just have this fixed floor with a large hollow space underneath that is accessable from under the rear seat (tilt the base forward but not the backrest). It's too long for storage so I was thinking of unbolting/clipping the blank floor, and putting 2 or 4 or 6 smaller batteries in there to create the amps I want. A box could be made to keep it all from moving.

I was also reading about the lithium iron posphate (LiFePO4) batteries and they may be ideal as I should be able to create a package of voltage/amperage I need. Do you have any experience with these? They seem to have great potential as a starting battery, but how about longer term use for a fridge etc?

[GreenGoofy]

Hi Drivesafe,
Sending you an email about the D4-5U = USI-160 + ABG-25 + FPC kit
Confirming that this kit definitely works with the new "Smart" (not too sure about that) alternators?

Kind Regards
GreenGoofy

[drivesafe]

Hi Jason and the D4-5U is one of a number of new kits specifically designed for the D4.

My kits work very well in conjunction with the D4’s BMS and gives far better charging results than any other type of dual battery set up in a D4, but my isolators also help to keep the cranking battery in a fully charged state, something no other system can do.

To date, there has not been one single issue with D4s equipped with any of my DBS kits, and not just here but all around the globe.

Cheers, Tim

[Rocket00]

Hello Tim

I have been right through this message stream and have a question. When connecting from the Main Cranking Battery to the Auxhilary Battery, where do you recommend the USI-160 is mounted and how do you suggest you get the power cable to the Auxhilary battery in a new D4 if it is mounted in the back of the D4.

Thanks

Rod

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and just letting you know that there has been a thread update on my D4 Dual Battery Kits.

The D4 kits on my web site can be fitted to either D3s or D4s but are specifically designed for D4s up to MY13 models.

But with the auxiliary battery compartment being available in the MY14 D4s, you now have a choice of either a D4 specific DBS kit, supplied with a battery tray, or you can now fit any of my D3 kits or the D3 Triple Battery Kits in a MY14 D4.

I have just upgraded all my D3 and D4 kits, making them almost completely Plug-N-Play which means they are easier and quicker to fit and there is a much more informative set of installation instructions supplied with each kit.

These new instruction contain for more photos of the installation techniques use to carry out a kit fitting, make the whole installation a much simpler job.

For more info on my D3 and D4 kits, please check out my web site.

[LandyAndy]

Hi folks and just letting you know that there has been a thread update on my D4 Dual Battery Kits.

The D4 kits on my web site can be fitted to either D3s or D4s but are specifically designed for D4s up to MY13 models.

But with the auxiliary battery compartment being available in the MY14 D4s, you now have a choice of either a D4 specific DBS kit, supplied with a battery tray, or you can now fit any of my D3 kits or the D3 Triple Battery Kits in a MY14 D4.

I have just upgraded all my D3 and D4 kits, making them almost completely Plug-N-Play which means they are easier and quicker to fit and there is a much more informative set of installation instructions supplied with each kit.

These new instruction contain for more photos of the installation techniques use to carry out a kit fitting, make the whole installation a much simpler job.

For more info on my D3 and D4 kits, please check out my web site.

Off to collect my brand new D4 shortly:cool::cool::cool::cool: A DBS is on the must fit list.
Andrew

[Tote]

Hi Tim,
I'm building a pod for my 130 and rather than fitting the auxiliary battery under the seat I'm looking to place it in the pod in a battery box and running the charge wire from the SC80 under the passenger seat to the pod. Do you see any issue with this and what gauge wire will I need for the charge wire. The aux battery is an Optima yellow top.
I'll also need to order a SC80 as I'm regretting leaving the SC40 in my old Disco 3 now.........

Regards,
Tote

[drivesafe]

Hi Tote, I and my pocket are quite pleased you left your old SC40 in your D3.

No seriously, the SC40 has been out of production for around 5 years now? because most new vehicle alternators are just to big for the 45 amp capacity the SC40 offered.

There have been a huge number of changes in the way a dual battery system needs to operate since the SC40 was first introduced over 25 years ago.

Even the SC80 was starting to fall behind what was needed and to that end, since the first of April this years, all orders shipped containing the SC80-CB, on and after that date have been supplied with the new SC80 Mark2.

The SC80 Mk2 looks and is installed exactly the same as the original SC80, but it now has a number of new features.

Many of the new features come from the DT90, the isolator used in my L322 Range Rover kits and my VW Kombi kits.

The old SC80 isolates the batteries when the common voltage gets down to 12.0v. If the vehicle was not used for some time, 2 to 4 weeks, depending on how high the State of Charge ( SoC ) of the batteries were in before the vehicle was last used. Over the 2 to 4 weeks the SC80 would progressively discharge the batteries down to 12.0v and the isolator would then shut off.

Like the DT90, the SC80 now has a TIME-OUT function, where it shuts down 72 hours after the motor was last on.

This was the primary reason for upgrading the SC80 but there are a number of other important new features added, like REVERSE CHARGING after the isolator has shut down. Plus the Green LED has now been replace with a bicoloured RED and GREEN LED and this now indicates a number for different operations, including a basic battery charge capacity indicator.

There are a number of other features in the new SC80, but this covers the main ones.

So Tote, you have picked the right time to upgrade.

Now to your intended setup, as long as you use decent cabling, 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) would be my recommendation, all will be fine.

[Beery]

Hi Tim,
My parents have just bought themselves a new D4. The dealer installed an anderson plug for their camper trailer and caravan, but didn't install an isolator.
I take it all I need to get for them is an SC-80? Nothing else?

Regards
Tom

[drivesafe]

Hi Tom, if the cabling to the rear is the correct size and it has been run through the cab of the D4, then yes, all you need is the SC80 isolator.

The dealers quite often use their local auto electrician to install new cabling and auto electricians often fit the wrong size cable and in the wrong place.

First check that they have run the cabling through the cab and NOT down the chassis rail.

Then try measuring the cable DIAMETER at the Anderson plug.

The copper and insulation, should be 7.5mm2 ( 6B&S ) or thicker. If the cable is around 5.5mm2 ( 8B&S ) or thinner ( 6mm AUTO which is actually 4.5mm2 ), then the cabling is useless.

Also make sure the cable is protected properly.

If the cabling is 5.5mm2, the maximum fuse or circuit breaker rating is 40 amps and if it is thinner than the maximum rating is 30 amps.

If the cabling is 7.5mm2 then the maximum fuse or circuit breaker rating is is 60 amps, but don't be surprised if you fine a 100 amp fuse or circuit breaker, another common auto electrician's error.

Another way to get an idea if the cable is too thin or the correct size, hold a YELLOW crimp terminal next to the cable and see if it looks like it will fit into a YELLOW crimp terminal.

If it does, then the cabling is too thin because 8B&S is the largest cabling that will fit in YELLOW crimp terminals.

If the cable looks to be about the same size as a YELLOW crimp terminal, then it sound like it is the correct size.

[Beery]

Thanks Tim
So the dealership did the job inhouse and they have stated that they used 6mm cable. Apparently when questioned, they said that this is the Australian Standard. Im an electrician myself, so I know that what they have said is a complete throw away statement. Cable sizing depends on several factors.
I havent had a look myself, but Im guessing its only 4.5mm2 of copper as you suggest.

Whats the importance of running through the cab and not along the chassis? Again, havent looked to see where it runs yet.

[drivesafe]

Whats the importance of running through the cab and not along the chassis? Again, havent looked to see where it runs yet.

Hi again Tom, and the importance of running the cable through the cab, with Land Rover's wire looms, is that if there is a need to work on the engine, like to fix a turbo or what ever, they lift the body off the chassis and any cabling run through the chassis rail is simply cut.

While most auto electricians do not know how to setup dual battery systems, dealerships do not even have auto electricians employed, so the chances of them getting it right are very slim.

MLR in Victoria are one of very few dealerships, Land Rover or otherwise, who know how to setup dual battery systems properly.

Tom, my guess is that not only will the "wiring" be too thin to ever charge a battery in a caravan, but that "wiring" will be dangerous because they will have used too high a rated fuse or circuit breaker.

I have already been down this road with some one who had had his LR dealership wire up his new RR and nearly burnt it to the ground.

Check the setup in the D4 and get back to me.

[carlschmid2002]

Hello Tim,
I am looking at purchasing a D4 V8. As it has two air intakes and two air filters will your standard D4 Kit fit under the bonnet?. Do you have other options if not?

Carl

[drivesafe]

Hi Carl, in many cases, you can fit one of my D3 kits in a D4, but there can be issues with fitting the battery hold down bracket in some D4s.

Have a look at the thread below. It gives you a way of checking your D4 to see if the D3 kits will fit.

Cheers, Tim

[carlschmid2002]

Hi Carl, in many cases, you can fit one of my D3 kits in a D4, but there can be issues with fitting the battery hold down bracket in some D4s.

Have a look at the thread below. It gives you a way of checking your D4 to see if the D3 kits will fit.

Cheers, Tim

Tim,
Does that mean the D4 kit won't fit? I am about to purchase under the lease and include the D-5S as part of the package. I won't have another opportunity to inspect the vehicle again for space. I have checked out your web site but can't find any mention of the D4 V8.

[drivesafe]

Hi again Carl, your D4 is similar to a North American spec LR4 and you can not fit a battery tray in you engine bay.

So no D4 kits for you.

The D3 kits will fit, or you can still buy one of my original D4 kits, where the battery use to be mounted in the cargo area.

Personally, a D3 kit would be the way I would go.

Regards, Tim.

[carlschmid2002]

Thanks will do. I appreciate your prompt response. If I can't get it included in the package I will be buying one in the very near future. Service and advice like this is very hard to come by these day. Very much appreciated.

[carlschmid2002]

Wayne fitted my DB system today on my D4 V8. Great job. He emailed me all the instructions and his work was first class. One very happy customer.
Cheers.

[Bill Reissenweber]

Wayne fitted my DB system today on my D4 V8. Great job. He emailed me all the instructions and his work was first class. One very happy customer.
Cheers.
Hi Carl, I have just bought a D4 V8 and was very interested to see you have successfully fitted a DB setup. Are you able to provide me any details please? Eg did it end up being mounted under the bonnet etc.
Cheers, Bill

[Geedublya]

I have the D3 kit fitted to my V8. You have to move the Transfer Case ECU so that the battery will fit in the second battery spot under the bonnet. I've had mine installed for over three years now without any problems.

[carlschmid2002]

Hi Carl, I have just bought a D4 V8 and was very interested to see you have successfully fitted a DB setup. Are you able to provide me any details please? Eg did it end up being mounted under the bonnet etc.
Cheers, Bill

Yes it is mounted under the bonnet.

[BrianElloy]

I have the D3 kit fitted to my V8. You have to move the Transfer Case ECU so that the battery will fit in the second battery spot under the bonnet. I've had mine installed for over three years now without any problems.

g'day - just about to cross this bridge myself. any chance you can put up a few pics? thanks in advance!

[Strop]

Hi Tim,

Just waiting for my D4 (first 4WD) so in planning stage without a car yet so please put up with my possibly silly questions.

Regarding the D4-5S kit. Is the cable that branches off the long run to the rear Anderson plug into the rear cargo area also 13.5mm (thinking cable loss here). I am asking so as to determine the future proofing of the wiring if a 2nd auxiliary battery in the cargo area was ever required. thinking that the 2 batteries would then be wired in parallel and the ABG-25 would come off the rear battery (if ever fitted/needed) and it would then protect both auxiliary batteries. I am also assuming both auxiliary batteries would need to be of the same type but not necessarily same amp/hrs.

Also after reading the material on your website You recommend the Optima D34 Yellow top battery. Only 55Ah. Am I correct in assuming that this battery was chosen because of its physical dimensions - (space available under bonnet) hence the 55Ahrs. I know you say 90Ah capacity but I sometimes setup a basecamp and don't move/drive for days and I like cold drinks, though a 4WD might change how I do things (driving - not cold beverages). I know a solar panel would probably fix this issue but just asking so I can plan.

Last question. I can see why your system performs better than a DC-DC charging unit from the alternator - kills it. But when I plug a solar panel onto the Anderson plug would a DC-DC charger with built in Solar controller be a better/good alternative to the solar controllers that come standard on panels. I have had someone tell me that they boost the amps and charge quicker - correct/false?

All the best

Laurie

[drivesafe]

Hi Laurie and first off, welcome to the forum.


While my kits are a standardised setup, I offer customising when required, and I have a number of customers who have requested to have their kit setup to either have the auxiliary battery fitted in the rear cargo area or, like yourself, want to add an additional removable auxiliary battery, usually in the form of a battery box, in the rear cargo area.


I charge around $50 for a 1m 6B&S extension to be added in the rear cargo area.


The extension comes with a 50 Anderson plug and a 50 amp In-Line auto resetting circuit breaker, but the ABG-25 remains connected to the main loom.


Keeping the ABG-25 connected to the main loom means that if you remove the rear mounted auxiliary battery, any other batteries being used to power accessories you are running in the rear cargo area, are still protected against being over discharged.


Next, DC/DC devices are very inefficient at what they do. When running off your alternator, this inefficiency is made up for by the alternator producing additional energy to compensate for the inefficiency but is nothing more than a waste of fuel.


When a DC/DC device is running off solar, this inefficiency is a lose of energy that can not be compensated for, so you loose some of your limited solar panel energy, just to power the DC/DC device and some brands of DC/DC devices are very inefficient when being used as a solar regulator.


Dedicated solar regulators are usually far more efficient and this means less of your limited solar power is needed just to power the regulator itself.


There is also another major advantage with using a dedicated solar regulator. If you have a caravan with solar on the roof, then while towing, the solar can be charging your batteries at the same time as your alternator is, and this will both shorten the drive time needed to recharge all the batteries, and it will mean a slight decrease in fuel usage.

[Strop]

Understood. Thanks Tim, will see you after I find the right car.

[sported]

Hi Tim

I'd like to add one of your kits to my 2010 RRS, but it'll need a few mods/omissions if you're happy to modify? I have a spare D34 and a whole lot of Stinger 0 AWG cable, battery terminals, and distribution blocks that I removed from my Prado. I'd like to run the 0 gauge from the auxiliary battery to the back and then split to my fridge, inverter, amps, compressor, etc. The Sport will also be getting a bull bar and winch next week...

Would you know if the 0 AWG single core cable would fit through the firewall? I'm not planning to run a negative to the back, but I'm assuming you run the twin cable to the rear purely for convenience? I would check it out myself but am sadly interstate so no tinkering for me.

Given the single core 0 AWG through the firewall is a good idea, I was thinking the following package or similar would work:
*Battery tray, bracket, J Bolts
*USI-160 with ground lead lugged (and supplied with In-Cab Module)
*USI-160 bracket/mount
*Positive lead (35mm should be plenty?) from the starting battery to the isolator
*ABG-25, without 30A fuse if possible?
*Wiring from ABG-25 to existing power socket, and supply of new power socket

I would then complete the setup with what i already have:
*0 AWG (50mm) from the isolator to the D34 (dual 0 AWG terminals)
*0 AWG from the D34 negative to ground (I also have a 0 AWG to multi 4 AWG ground distribution that I might use)
*0 AWG to fuse block, and then through firewall to rear (either under rear seats, or below boot false floor)
*0 AWG to fused 4 AWG and 8 AWG distribution at rear which will include distribution to the ABG-25

Thoughts and insults always welcome!
Thanks, Rob