D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring

[Smocky]

And if you got the D4-5S Traxide kit you will be running a wire across to LHS anyway, for connection to the LHS power socket, which is additional to the new Traxide RHS power socket. This step will be in the Traxide instructions if you have that kit but in any case it is easy, just remove the tailgate flap section and lift carpet to place wiring.

Scott

Thanks Scott,

what about the cables for the Tow Pro though? Do I need to run them across at the same time or do they wire in at the RHS light?

So... I am running down the right hand side to the rear storage area. New plug goes in there. Then run cables across for the other plug.

And yep, I got the D4-5S as I need the Anderson plug at the rear for charging the CT. Need to do it all this weekend, I'm off to Mt Kosciusko for ANZAC weekend to take some photos. :D Cannot wait.

[strydes]

what about the cables for the Tow Pro though? Do I need to run them across at the same time or do they wire in at the RHS light?

So... I am running down the right hand side to the rear storage area. New plug goes in there. Then run cables across for the other plug.


The traxide exits at the drivers side tail light for the anderson plug but the cig lighter feed runs along the exact same path as what you'll use for the Tow Pro to the passenger side cubby. So short answer, YES, run them over from driver to passenger side at the same time.

[Smocky]

The traxide exits at the drivers side tail light for the anderson plug but the cig lighter feed runs along the exact same path as what you'll use for the Tow Pro to the passenger side cubby. So short answer, YES, run them over from driver to passenger side at the same time.

Right, got it. Also found that very useful PDF document that has been put together. It shows the cable being crossed from right to left.

I think I'm good to go. Just need the kit to arrive with the cabling and I'll be hacking in to my beautiful car with drills and screwdrivers !! :o

[strydes]

Also found that very useful PDF document that has been put together.

You're welcome ;)

[Smocky]

I've run all the cables, but the wiring loom is all packed in tight as a drum. I can't see the brown wire that is talked about in the instructions.

Any tips for where to find the wire or how to gain access to it?

Thanks very much,

Smocky.

[LRD414]

I can't see the brown wire that is talked about in the instructions.
Assume you mean the brown wire that must be cut to become the brake signal wire?

It is covered by wrapping with a barcode tape in the LHR storage cubby.
Once you have stripped off the wrapping and barcode you should see something like this photo.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/404.jpg

The brown wire that's exiting and goes through the rear grommet to the trailer plug is the one to which you want to connect after it's cut.

You can see the rear a/c unit to the top-right of this photo, which is empty space if one isn't fitted. Grommet to tail light is to the bottom-left of photo.

Scott

[Smocky]

This is the view i have.

108361

So it's under the barcode?

And the red one?

Thanks for your help Scott, the traxide kit is all wired up, just need to wrote the tow pro now

Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app

[LRD414]

So it's under the barcode?

Yep that's it. I can't remember the red one exactly. Check back earlier in this thread.

Cheers,
Scott

[Smocky]

OK that took a lot longer than I expected, but I was taking my time as I hacked at my $90k pride and joy :D

Both the Traxide D4-5S kit and the Redarc Tow Pro fitted.

Things that slowed me up (and may provide some tips to others who follow)

Pulling the wiring from rear to drivers footwell, especially under the B pillar. Definitely need a coat hanger here but be careful not to jag other wires. Just be patient and slow

Taking a hacksaw to the dash behind the light binnacle to make room for the tow pro remote head.

Drilling 2 holes for the remote head in the binnacle

Finding the right wires in the LHR cubby. (Under the barcode and remove a lot of black tape)

The wire I ran from the brake controller to the rear to pickup the stop light was marginally short. This made it difficult to connect up.

Soldering in the diode, not as easy to make it stick as I thought. Not sure if it's 100%, still may need to fix that.

Other than that, it's just follow the instructions and take your time. It's DEFINITELY much easier to do once you've done one. Anyone that has already completed it will think it's pretty straight forward now (including me) but I found it pretty daunting first time working on this car.

Can't thank you guys enough for all the help. If you're doing this, read pages 1- 13 or so 4 times, not once or twice. All the info is there, just can get a bit confusing in all the conversation.

On to the next project !!

:D

Smocky.

[apom]

Just picked up a camper for the week And The brake controller is fitted in the trailer. All working ok but after about 20 minutes the brakes lock on in the trailer. Any suggestions please....

Further to this... its seems to be the when the lights come on or goes into reverse it locks them. Rest of the time they are fine. (Hence why they locked when i went into the tunnel in Brisbane :D) Will run with that knowledge until i get a redarc Tow pro installed.

Just did a 20 minute test run with the automatic lights off and no issue

[disco4now]

Go down about 8 posts and read about the brown wire. It goes to the pin used by the electric brakes, but is also connected to the taillights. This is cut and connected to the output of the brake controller when one is installed in the vehicle. The join is located either behind or in front of the left rear taillight depending on your model. Look through this thread and you will find the details for each.

Regards
Gerry

[PeteL]

Hope someone can help. Followed instructions to install Tow Pro elite on D4, all looks ok except no lights on trailer? any ideas? Trailer has LED and works with another car.
Thanks.

[dimo888]

Hi all, I'm a newbie here although I have been following for a while.
Firstly I'd like to commend you all for fantastic information especially Sniegy.
I've just purchase my first caravan to explore this wonderful land, however I need to fit an EBC & I can't get in with the dealer for another 3 weeks. I need to collect the van next weekend. I've got a mate who is an auto elec & is quite capable of fitting it for me. I have read 52 pages of information on wiring but most of them relate to D3 & D4. I own a my13.5 RRS & would like to know whether the D3 or D4 wiring would be the same as my RRS.
Any feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks
Steve

[MTDBTD23]

Hello there to everyone following this thread. This is my first post/question - not sure if I'm doing it right but we'll see how we go!

Am currently installing a Tow Pro elite with the remote control. Have managed to carefully place the remote knob into the lights binnacle after some nervous drilling. All good now.

Can someone tell me where is the best place to locate the control box? I've looked under the panel which is located under the steering wheel but not sure if there is enough room here.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Michael

[AndrewM]

Hi Michael,

Strydes has done an excellent write-up of the full install including details of mounting the control bow behind the light switch. See Post #450 below and download his pdf which I'd say reflects most if not all of the current thinking in this thread.

Milton477's post #500 below has another location as does Nod's post #466.

Good luck and don't forget the diode and to cut the brown wire.:D

My Tow Pro is still in its box on my desk, but will be started shortly.:cool:




...
Can someone tell me where is the best place to locate the (Tow Pro Elite) control box? I've looked under the panel which is located under the steering wheel but not sure if there is enough room here.
....
Cheers
Michael

[Yorkshire_Jon]

A big thanks to Sniegy for his write up and the other chap that figured out where to put the diode. I spent a lot of time reading and re-reading this thread and memorised it.

The install on the new D4 went like a dream and everything works perfect:)

I chose the new Tow-Pro Elite controller and its every bit as good as my trusty P3.


Now for the Traxide dual batteries....

Thanks
Jon

[Tombie]

Which mounting method did you go with Jon?

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Which mounting method did you go with Jon?

The Tow-Pro was installed on the cast-aluminium brakes behind the headlight switch (3 x M4 bolts).

I put the remote switch on the headlight switch / binnacle rather than in the centre console. Also, rather than place the Redarc rotary dial in the centre of the available space on the binnacle I managed (just) to get the centre of the dial inline with the centre line of the fog light switches. This has then left enough space for me to install an ON/OFF switch for my LED Trailer module directly above the redarc dial.

The LED trailer module is (for now at least) cable tied to the rear side of the tow-hitch moulding below the Rear Air-Con gubbins in the LHS storage bin.

[apom]

The Tow-Pro was installed on the cast-aluminium brakes behind the headlight switch (3 x M4 bolts).

I put the remote switch on the headlight switch / binnacle rather than in the centre console. Also, rather than place the Redarc rotary dial in the centre of the available space on the binnacle I managed (just) to get the centre of the dial inline with the centre line of the fog light switches. This has then left enough space for me to install an ON/OFF switch for my LED Trailer module directly above the redarc dial.

The LED trailer module is (for now at least) cable tied to the rear side of the tow-hitch moulding below the Rear Air-Con gubbins in the LHS storage bin.

Any chance of a couple of pics...sounds like a good looking job

[Smocky]

Hi mate,

Everything will work fine without the need for anything else. Lights will work properly.

However, the Landy won't detect that anything is connected. Therefore the functions like anti sway and leveling won't work.

You can wire in a simple load resister from Narva for about $20 if you have that skill that will do the job. Otherwise the "box" will simply make the Landy realise a trailer is connected and do it's extra bits.

You don't NEED it.

Cheers

Sent from my SM-G920I using AULRO mobile app

[Stuart02]

Does anyone happen know of a round to flat trailer plug adapter with a resistor built in? I hate wiring that much...

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[Tombie]

Does anyone happen know of a round to flat trailer plug adapter with a resistor built in? I hate wiring that much...

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app



No, but I can happily make you one.

[Disco4Dave]

I want to get a Redarc TowPro installed in a D4, along with auxilliary power to a trailer, and it needs to be a professional job, which rules out me as the installer!

Back in this thread, ATV Automotive at Five Dock were recommended.

Can anyone recommend another good installer on the north side of Sydney please?

[Yorkshire_Jon]

I want to get a Redarc TowPro installed in a D4, along with auxilliary power to a trailer, and it needs to be a professional job, which rules out me as the installer!

Back in this thread, ATV Automotive at Five Dock were recommended.

Can anyone recommend another good installer on the north side of Sydney please?

With the information provided in this thread and the information thats readily available here (and on his website) from Traxide, I reckon the only difference between an OK job and a "professional job" is time and care. Both of which you will afford more to the job than a sparky would, plus at the end of the day you know its done right.

In all seriousness, Id suggest you read and re-read this thread, buy the Tow-Pro and get cracking.

I was a bit iffy about doing my trainer brakes a few weeks ago, but its not at all difficult, the aux power is also just as straight forward.

The hardest part for me was holding the short wire on the loom plus diode plus soldering iron plus solder and getting everything in the small space without warming up my fingers!

Tools required for the job are simple:
- Various sized drills upto 10mm (for the redraw switch/dial) - sneak up on the 10mm rather than go straight to 10mm
- cable snips
- cable ties
- electrical tape
- a feared/blue/yellow cable connectors
- soldering iron & solder (although at a push you could probably crimp that too)
- Pliers (if you dont have a crimp tool)
- Whilst not essential Id recommend 3 or 4 M4 nuts & bolts so you can bolt your tow-pro module to the aluminium panel behind the headlight switch)
- Patience and a print out of the salient points of this thread (there are 3 or 4 from memory).

Im on the northern beaches - happy to have a chat / lend a hand if it helps.

Jon

[Disco4Dave]

Thanks for that encouragement and advice Jon.
However, I have removed interior panels in cars before, and it has sometimes not ended well, with broken tabs, or new squeeks and noises.
I am picking up a new D4 today, and it is by far the most expensive car I have owned, and so I am wary of a doofus like me pulling it apart. SWMBO would be unbearable if I stuffed up :-)

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Thanks for that encouragement and advice Jon.
However, I have removed interior panels in cars before, and it has sometimes not ended well, with broken tabs, or new squeeks and noises.
I am picking up a new D4 today, and it is by far the most expensive car I have owned, and so I am wary of a doofus like me pulling it apart. SWMBO would be unbearable if I stuffed up :-)

Mate, that was the single biggest non-technical issue I had. I was in exactly the same boat a few weeks ago. Pulling $100k car apart takes some doing the first time.

Slow and steady wins the race though, and it'll save you $1200 - Or at least thats what I was quoted in Brookvale (not sure if that included the controller or not - I wasn't bothered once Id heard the cost!!).

[brucester]

Have installed Tow Pro Elite and the unit does not seem to be calibrating
The blue diminishing led when in breathing mode and no trailer connected works however when van connected and driving, calibration does not occur and there are no LED lights at all.
Performed the test as per Redarc instructions when first installed and test light works.
According to the trouble shooting if no LED lights when trailer connected then there is a bad connection.
Any thoughts or have I missed the obvious

[Nod]

Howdy Brucester!

If the TowPro doesn't sense a load it will not calibrate. So either there is a cable issue or insufficient load.

What is the brake load on the TowPro (the brake type at the end of the blue wire)?

Are you certain that you picked the correct cable (brown) to connect with when you split the wires (at SJ571) in the rear cubby?

For some brake types Redarc state that you may need a 21W resistor across the load. I was worried about this as my trailer has a disc brake controller (AL-KO iQ7) and does not present as much load as standard electric brakes.... but worked ok for me.

Gordon

[brucester]

Thanks Gordon :)
The camper is a Complete Campsite Exodus 11 with drum brakes and weight is around 1800kg.
Wired the unit as shown on this forum and connected to the brown wire in the LHR.
I have checked all my connections and they appear fine.
As you say it may be a wire connection and is there a way of checking this.

[Nod]

Your electric brakes are sufficient load for the Tow Pro. So, I think that you may have a cabling issue. Power is ok as you have the blue LED breathing.

Do the trailer indicators, lights and brake lights work? This wont stop calibration, but when pushing the TP controller button in, do the trailer brake lights come on? First step to proving the diode is correct.

Need to determine if the issue is vehicle or trailer. Putting a load on pin 5 to ground should cause the TP LED to flash (either a 21W resistor or 12V globe). If you have a multimeter, can you see resistance if you look into pin 5 of the trailer to ground? Try the trailer on a different vehicle.

[Tombie]

What size cable did you run? Front to rear?

[brucester]

Size that was mentioned in the forum

[brucester]

Yes the vans lights all work
Will hook van up and try again and report back
Thanks once again for your input, Great forum

[brucester]

Problem solved
Went back to the dealer this morning as I had run out of solutions.
Apparently as part of their pre delivery they cut the brown wire in the plug harness under the rear bumper. Their reason because of the different European/Australian wiring. They said they had been doing this since 2005. Don't know whether this is dealer specific or Australia wide
Therefore my connecting the blue wire to the brown wire inside was going nowhere.
Thanks for all advice


:):):)

[David47]

We're picking up a new D4 towards the end of July.
We've been told that we need to ask the dealer to 'activate the towing package'.
Can anyone advise what's involved?
thanks
David

[Yorkshire_Jon]

We're picking up a new D4 towards the end of July.
We've been told that we need to ask the dealer to 'activate the towing package'.
Can anyone advise what's involved?
thanks
David

David,
Im not surprised you've been told this kind of thing - I heard all sorts of things form various dealers. Bottom line though, my understanding is that the dealer does not need to do anything - All the towing software is there and working from the factory.

You will probably need a UK round to Aus 7 pin flat adapter for your trailer lights.

Depending on what you need to tow (less than 750kg or greater than 750kg) you may need to install an electric brake controller. If thats the case then read this thread many, many times and get it clear in your head whats required. There are half a dozen posts that are crucial, but installing is easy if you take your time.

LED lights on your trailer are another issue you need to consider. Due to European laws that mandate how trailer electrics should work, you need to wire in a little box to get all the electronics working correctly when LED lights are plugged in - Best and easiest way is from here:
Linear Electronic Design | Home (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com)

If you trailer has "normal" bulbs then all will work fine without any problems.

R
Jon

[Geedublya]

David,

Im not surprised you've been told this kind of thing - I heard all sorts of things form various dealers. Bottom line though, my understanding is that the dealer does not need to do anything - All the towing software is there and working from the factory.



You will probably need a UK round to Aus 7 pin flat adapter for your trailer lights.



Depending on what you need to tow (less than 750kg or greater than 750kg) you may need to install an electric brake controller. If thats the case then read this thread many, many times and get it clear in your head whats required. There are half a dozen posts that are crucial, but installing is easy if you take your time.



LED lights on your trailer are another issue you need to consider. Due to European laws that mandate how trailer electrics should work, you need to wire in a little box to get all the electronics working correctly when LED lights are plugged in - Best and easiest way is from here:

Linear Electronic Design | Home (http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com)



If you trailer has "normal" bulbs then all will work fine without any problems.



R

Jon



You don't need this on the D4 only the D3. The D4 only needs a resistor in parallel with one or both of the trailer indicator LEDs to be fully functional. Even without this it will work. It just won't flash the trailer display on the dash or activate all the trailer programming.

[jonesy63]

Nor disable rear distance sensors, nor change gearbox shift points. ;)

[Kandy]

We're picking up a new D4 towards the end of July.
We've been told that we need to ask the dealer to 'activate the towing package'.
Can anyone advise what's involved?
thanks
David

Purchased D4 SDV6 late May for the extra power when towing 2.5 t caravan so my "activation" was had dealer add a Redarc brake controller and LR tow hitch receiver and tongue(50mm ball) plus a large round 7 pin. Brake controller works brilliant, no weight distribution stuff involved , 8 speed auto smooth as with the ability to go "manual" quickly on some hills. Changing to McHitch auto soon though the reversing camera when changed to trailer hitch mode is fantastic, (a line on the screen from your tongue/ball to the caravan coupling) but thats just me being too lazy to hop out too often. Hope this helps.
Steve

[Hugh Jars]

I've just made up the adaptors for the 12N and S plugs to 12 pin socket. I found the 12N was correctly wired for AU. I've done the brown/black wire mod which is as advertised throughout this thread.

One question- does the diode still need to be fitted to the brake controller sense wire on the MY16.5 ?

Thanks, John.

[Nod]

Yes, the diode is required for all brake controllers that can produce a voltage output on the red wire that could backfeed to the vehicle ECU (brake light output source). When you press in the button on the Redarc Tow Pro it will output 12V on the red (as well as signal to the brakes on the blue) which will turn on the trailer brake lights. The diode will also protect the ECU if something goes wrong on the red inside the brake controller.

[rodg]

.

Roughly how much should this job cost on a D4 for a P3 Supply and install

Had latest Red Arc controller installed in my D4 and cost $1,000 probably paid a little more but local guy did it and very good back up service.
It's with the 10 set knob controller either manual or Auto, have camper trailer just been to Flinders Rangers recently and had no trouble with braking.
rodg

[rodg]

Hi Again

I was at the dealer where we are buying our caravan from today and he told me that i will need a special adaptor box from LR that connects to the trailer plug. I apparently need this due to the fact the caravan has LED lights and without this box the van will be like dodgy Xmas tree.

I am told this box will set me bag a further $250. Funny thing is i spoke to the landy dealer i am getting the vehicle from and he doesn't know much about this.

Can you shed some light on it for me.

Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul I had to buy a box as well for my camper trailer paid $185.00 to a company in SA because camper trailer had LED light and not globes, a common problem as the computer is looking for a certain load on the trailer plug so there for it doesn't comput that there is a trailer connected.

[Brada]

Hi, this is my first post sorry if the reply is to someone elses post.
I am mid way through the install of the tow pro elite . My first suggestion is when you pop the internal scuff plates trims OK the floor - Remove the clips that hold them in. They are a nightmare to recover. Lr charge $1.70 each.
So my question is when installing the switch assembly into the light binnacle, How did remove the dashboard trim behind?

Thanks

[SaltyNalty]

Morning Team,

Will this diode be suitable in the D3?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/381.jpg

Cheers,

Salty

[Nod]

Howdy Salty,

The 3A diodes would be fine for most application (loads up to 36W). I originally installed a 3A diode that was fine with my van (LED lights) but died with my crappy box trailer. When I did the math the box trailer brake light globes were pulling a little over 4A. So I bought some 6A diodes from Jaycar... had to buy 10... have 2 left. If you PM me your address I'm happy to send you one.

Gordon

[SaltyNalty]

You're a ledgend Gordon,

Cheers

[David47]

Thanks to all for the information on this thread.
However, we have been unsuccessful in getting a RedArc TowPro Elite to work on our new MY16 D4 and caravan.
ARB had trouble finding relevant information so I provided print outs of the discussions on this thread. They were impressed with the quality of the posts. After completion, ARB tested their work using a 'trailer board' and told me all was fine. However, the brake controller does not work with our caravan - the dial on the dashboard does not show the correct colours, the caravan brake lights do not glow and there is no braking effect.
The Prodigy brake controller on our recent D3 continues to work with the van.
A LED resister unit is fitted to the van.
Is there a significant difference in the wiring between a D3 and D4? Could the van be at fault (although it continues to work with the D3)?
Any help would be appreciated.
regards
David

[LRD414]

David, perhaps start by testing the pins of the trailer plug on the D4.
No lights and no brake controller signal suggests it's not just an issue with the Tow Pro.
Do the caravan indicators work with the D4?

Cheers,
Scott

[David47]

Thanks Scott
Yes, a mate tested the black round plug on the D4 and all seemed correct.
I forgot to mention that, when only the round plug is connected, the caravan blinkers flash 'opposite side' to the car blinkers, but when the gray Anderson plug is also connected, the van blinkers work correctly.
regards
David

[rhinosm]

Sorry for the dumb question.
I've some how ended up with 2 versions of this drawing.
Each with diode is different location.
Which one is correct please?
Cheers;)

[LRD414]

The PDF version is suitable to protect vehicle from a Tow Pro failure that "may" send a high current out to the CJB. The diode is in the sense wire in this version.

However, this version does not illuminate the vehicle brake lights when the manual trailer brake button is pressed.

This issue is fixed by the version in the jpg file. The CJB is still protected but the brake signal can travel from controller to brake light during manual operation.

One issue with the jpg version: the diode size needs to be increased because 3A is potentially not enough for the full current required for say 4 x trailer lights. You may have noted a few people have increased diode size to 6A for this arrangement.

Regards,
Scott

[apom]

Finally getting this down today... too much talking on the MOD Day... however a question for those that have run the cables.

Thanks again for this post.... so much useful information

On the rear wheel arch what did people do here? Behind my trim between the rear Seat belt bolt and the edge there are plastic perpendicular fins that impeded the cable to sit flat. See the photo.

There is no space behind the seat belt bolt

Did other simply cut them out, bend them over? (I am running the traxide and the towpro together

[Tombie]

Didn't even pull that trim, just fed the wire under the edge that contacts the carpet..

[apom]

Didn't even pull that trim, just fed the wire under the edge that contacts the carpet..

Thanks, did that... it was tight, but worked, Thanks Tombie.

(Just as well i liked practice on getting it under the B Pillar, ended up pulling it back through to do the rerouting :D)

[Tombie]

Thanks, did that... it was tight, but worked, Thanks Tombie.



(Just as well i liked practice on getting it under the B Pillar, ended up pulling it back through to do the rerouting :D)



I just take the B pillar trims completely off [emoji41]

[apom]

I just take the B pillar trims completely off [emoji41]

Yep, i was going to that... i just ran a trace front to back under it then taped it up and slowly pulled it through... easy as!!

The traxide and the towpro under the c pillar near the seat is the tightest point

[Crofty]

Hi guys, I'll be fitting a traxide and tow pro elite controller this weekend hopefully if all the gear turns up. Fitting into a MY15 D4 HSE.
There is tons of info on here which has been very helpful yet I have one question unanswered.
Do I need to add in the diode if I have purchased the linear electronic design module?
Cheers

[LRD414]

Do I need to add in the diode if I have purchased the linear electronic design module?
Cheers
Yes, they have two different functions.
Diode protects CJB from Tow Pro failure.
Module activates trailer assist by allowing vehicle to recognise trailer is attached.

Hopefully you noted the diode size detail (6A not 3A if upstream of splice).

Scott

[Crofty]

Yes, they have two different functions.
Diode protects CJB from Tow Pro failure.
Module activates trailer assist by allowing vehicle to recognise trailer is attached.

Hopefully you noted the diode size detail (6A not 3A if upstream of splice).

Scott



Thanks you Scott, now just to get one!

[Crofty]

Thanks you Scott, now just to get one!



Does my sketch look good fellas? Traxide system in and all good. Just finishing off the Redarc wiring. I have the tech drawing that has been posted, but feel more comfortable if my sketch gets the tick of approval or not.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/321.jpg

[LRD414]

Does my sketch look good fellas?
Looks right to me.

Scott

[Crofty]

Looks right to me.



Scott



Cheers Scott, all in. Just needs testing tomorrow. [emoji108]

[Crofty]

Whipped together a drawing for any others to follow on the redarc tow pro elite install for a MY15 LR4.

[Russrobe]

Todays effort. Relocated this from the steering column to accommodate llams.
Really like this spot as it looked pretty bare missing a factory option.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/630.jpg

[Russrobe]

Must admit it was fun getting that light in behind that circuit board.. Looks alright though.

[mr_squiggle]

Need some help to work this out. Just bought a 2013 D4 with a Teknosha P2 and had to correct the wiring by adding a diode and getting the right outputs to the main 7 pin plug. But I now have a situation where the brake controller over ride works as expected, however putting the foot on the brake pedal gives no voltage from the BCM. Reset the car and no van connection and it works as expected. Connect the van & no go from the brake pedal.
I've checked with the IID tool & there's no faults.
Anyone got any ideas?
I'm thinking the diode isn't playing the game (yes it's installed the right way). All the wiring is done under the tail light, not inside.
Tomorrow I'll check the wiring inside the car.
Any ideas from the brains trust?

[disco4now]

The P3 has some diagnostics that might help. One thing to watch out for is that the output is proportional to the braking inertia, so is much lower than you might expected when stationary and also depends on whether B1,B2 or B3 setting is applied.

The link below is a recording on my measurements a few years ago.
You can read the voltage from the brake pedal being applied via the diode and also the current and voltage out to the van via these diagnostics.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brakes-post1419157.html#post1419157

Regards
Gerry

[mr_squiggle]

The P3 has some diagnostics that might help. One thing to watch out for is that the output is proportional to the braking inertia, so is much lower than you might expected when stationary and also depends on whether B1,B2 or B3 setting is applied.

The link below is a recording on my measurements a few years ago.
You can read the voltage from the brake pedal being applied via the diode and also the current and voltage out to the van via these diagnostics.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brakes-post1419157.html#post1419157

Regards
Gerry



Thanks Garry, much appreciated. I've realised that it's a P2, not a P3 so I corrected the post above.

[RobA]

We have a RedArc TowPro in the D4 at the moment but are about to purchase an AOR Quantum+ with disc brakes. ALKO says the TowPro is no longer a recommended unit with the discs so we need to move to the P3.

Where to put it? Mate in an LC200 has his on the A pillar. Not sure about where the curtain bags deploy from along with wiring

Are there any other suggestions

As well any tricks in regard to wiring

Rob

[Tombie]

Save your coin Rob.. 2014 onwards units are approved [emoji41]

Tow-Pro approved for use with AL-KO ESC. | REDARC Electronics (https://www.redarc.com.au/news/tow-pro-approved-for-use-with-al-ko-esc)

[Tombie]

And with the brakes alone:
REDARC Electronics (https://www.redarc.com.au/is-the-tow-pro-elite-compatible-with-al-ko-12-brakes-with-al-ko-iq7-electric-/-hydraulic-actuator-controlled-from-vehicle)

http://www.alko.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/AL-KO-ESC-Bulletin-REDARC-EBRH-ACC-TowPro-Compatibility.pdf

[RobA]

Tombie thanks for that. I have information telling me ALKO is no longer endorsing the use of the TowPro with their IQ7 disc brake system. They don't seem to want to comment directly to me on the matter and I would really like to fit the system to our Q+ as it is 1800kg bare and will weigh in at close to 2500kg on the back of the D4.

Second choice is 12" drums with the ALKO stability control system and keep the TowPro

I will be having a chat to my RedArc contacts today to see if they know of the above as well

Regards

Rob

[RobA]

Tombie thanks for that. I have information telling me ALKO is no longer endorsing the use of the TowPro with their IQ7 disc brake system. They don't seem to want to comment directly to me on the matter and I would really like to fit the system to our Q+ as it is 1800kg bare and will weigh in at close to 2500kg on the back of the D4.

Second choice is 12" drums with the ALKO stability control system and keep the TowPro

I will be having a chat to my RedArc contacts today to see if they know of the above as well

Regards

Rob

As an update to this post

ALKO has formally advised the TowPro is OK with their stability control and drum brakes but not with their disc brake setup and iq7 system. So sadly we have no option but to now pull out the TowPro and have a Hayman Reese compact IQ system put in so we can go with the disc brakes as we want more stopping power when towing 2.5T

As it relates to the D4 nothing to report at the moment it is really just a replacement setup and I am assuming, perhaps niavely, that all will be well and nothing else needs to be done

Rob

[Petetheprinta]

Got myself a 2012 D4 3L and just bought myself a caravan. Purchased a new Redarc Towpro elite and want to have a go at installing myself. Is there anyone in Adelaide who has done it? Any chance of catching up as I am not absolutely sure of wiring? As good as this thread is (I've read it twice) the nuggets are spread throughout the posts which makes it a little hard for this ol bloke to be certain of what goes where (wiring wise)
many thanks
Pete.

[Petetheprinta]

Managed to do it myself, no dramas, all appears to work well.

[Laney58]

Okay, I'm a new owner, 1 week, asked the dealer to fit a Red Arc trailer brake controller which was done. Also asked for a 12pin flat for my Jayco and the response was "just get an adaptor from auto pro". Well that's not going to work as the 12 pin runs extra cable for the fridge and battery in the van. Went to an auto sparky here in Port Augusta and it seems to be a drama. Looking for some advice here on best way forward and if its 12 pin plug where do you fit it.

[LRD414]

Okay, I'm a new owner, 1 week, asked the dealer to fit a Red Arc trailer brake controller which was done. Also asked for a 12pin flat for my Jayco and the response was "just get an adaptor from auto pro". Well that's not going to work as the 12 pin runs extra cable for the fridge and battery in the van. Went to an auto sparky here in Port Augusta and it seems to be a drama. Looking for some advice here on best way forward and if its 12 pin plug where do you fit it.
Best to look for tow socket threads such as this one:
White Trailer Plug, Removing (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/194443-white-trailer-plug-removing.html)
See in particular post#8

Cheers,
Scott

[mr_squiggle]

The 12 pin turns out to be a combination of the white & black plugs. So you remove them both & have a bracket made to install the 12 pin usually in the place where the black plug is now. Often there's a 50 amp Anderson plug installed where the white plug is now.
Any half competent auto electric should be able to do the job.

[Tombie]

Okay, I'm a new owner, 1 week, asked the dealer to fit a Red Arc trailer brake controller which was done. Also asked for a 12pin flat for my Jayco and the response was "just get an adaptor from auto pro". Well that's not going to work as the 12 pin runs extra cable for the fridge and battery in the van. Went to an auto sparky here in Port Augusta and it seems to be a drama. Looking for some advice here on best way forward and if its 12 pin plug where do you fit it.

Easily made... personally better than hacking up the factory wiring.

When do you need one? (BTW, I'm in Whyalla)

[Laney58]

Easily made... personally better than hacking up the factory wiring.

When do you need one? (BTW, I'm in Whyalla)

Hi Tombie, I need it for the 31st March, I work in Port Augusta so can get to Whyalla easy. Work is an issue, I'll be in Adelaide this Wednesday, and the following week at Kingoonya for 3 days. regards Peter

[Hungo]

Hi all, I've installed a Redarc EBC on my D4 as per Sniegy's instructions on this thread which made the job super easy. Including the diode on red brake signal cable.
However I think I may have a problem:
1. It now makes a clicking sound which you can feel through the gear stick when in Park or Neutral and I put foot on brake.(it's like a relay clicking on and off). In drive it's fine.
2. Without a trailer connected I don't seem to have a varying voltage at pin5, it's remaining constant. The red light goes on and off with brake application though. I haven't tested with a trailer connected yet.
Anyone have similar issue or is it an issue at all?jj

[Tombie]

Hi Tombie, I need it for the 31st March, I work in Port Augusta so can get to Whyalla easy. Work is an issue, I'll be in Adelaide this Wednesday, and the following week at Kingoonya for 3 days. regards Peter

Damn...

Never got a notification from this thread and missed the post..

Hope you got this sorted..

[LRD414]

However I think I may have a problem:
1. It now makes a clicking sound which you can feel through the gear stick when in Park or Neutral and I put foot on brake.(it's like a relay clicking on and off). In drive it's fine.
2. Without a trailer connected I don't seem to have a varying voltage at pin5, it's remaining constant. The red light goes on and off with brake application though. I haven't tested with a trailer connected yet.

Point 1 is normal and is a relay as you suspected. Must have foot on brake to put it in drive.

Point 2, hard to say. Testing with trailer would be the go.

Scott

[dirvine]

I have the Redarc Tow Pro wired up as per diagram here. With no trailer connected, my Tow pro button does not light up at all. I do not get any ticking or clicking, trailer connected or not. Also I have had no issues with flasher rate or reversing beepers working when a trailer is connected. My trailer has LED lights, but so does my 16.5 disco, so maybe LR fixed up the low wattage of a LED trailer with the later models.

[Hungo]

Thanks Scott and Dirvine,
Tested with a 10w globe and it is operating perfect. It goes green when connected and voltage ramps up and down. When I unplug load the green light turns off etc.

I don't remember there been the relay clicking noise when in Park and N before I wired up the brake controller. I thought maybe it was a bad earth, but it appears OK. Any other thoughts?

Also, does anyone wire the controller power through an ignition activated relay rather than direct 12v from battery? I've done direct to battery as per Sniegy wiring, but means the controller always has the green light on when trailer plugged in even though ignition off.

[Laney58]

yes, I did thanks. Went back to the same auto sparky with info from the forum site. He carried on a bit in the morning and in the arvo when I went to pick it up he's like my neighbours got one and I'm thinking of buying a Range Rover Velour. Couldn't shut him up


Damn...

Never got a notification from this thread and missed the post..

Hope you got this sorted..

[Swc]

Hi,

Just purchased a 2016 SDV6 SE, just wondering if you had trouble with led lights on the van? Did you need the extra connector between car and van? Also my van has a flat 12 pin connector. Did you have the car plugs changed?

Thanks in advance.

Steve



Purchased D4 SDV6 late May for the extra power when towing 2.5 t caravan so my "activation" was had dealer add a Redarc brake controller and LR tow hitch receiver and tongue(50mm ball) plus a large round 7 pin. Brake controller works brilliant, no weight distribution stuff involved , 8 speed auto smooth as with the ability to go "manual" quickly on some hills. Changing to McHitch auto soon though the reversing camera when changed to trailer hitch mode is fantastic, (a line on the screen from your tongue/ball to the caravan coupling) but thats just me being too lazy to hop out too often. Hope this helps.
Steve

[geoffmc]

Hi All,

I am about to embark on installing a Tow Pro and traxide kit tomorrow on my 2013 D4. Ive noticed that there are a few differences in year models. Can anyone please confirm which wiring set up i need.

I have got Scotts excellent build thread and tried a few things as per it, however have found the lights particularly are different. Mine has H7 low and high beam.

Appreciate all responses.

cheers
Geoff

[Tombie]

Hi,

Just purchased a 2016 SDV6 SE, just wondering if you had trouble with led lights on the van? Did you need the extra connector between car and van? Also my van has a flat 12 pin connector. Did you have the car plugs changed?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

Get a lead made that has a 12S and 12N into a 12 pin..

Leave the car alone

[LRD414]

I am about to embark on installing a Tow Pro and traxide kit tomorrow on my 2013 D4. Ive noticed that there are a few differences in year models. Can anyone please confirm which wiring set up i need.

I have got Scotts excellent build thread and tried a few things as per it, however have found the lights particularly are different. Mine has H7 low and high beam.

Geoff, while there was a change to the headlights for MY14+, there has not been changes to the wiring required for the Tow Pro and the Traxide kit is virtually independent of vehicle wiring too. The wires you need to splice to and change for the Tow Pro are all within the 12S (white) trailer plug loom, which has remained the same for the D4 through model years.

Regards,
Scott

[Strop]

Fitting a Brake Controller is on my future list of things to come. I do hope to fit my Traxide kit this week though. So whilst doing that I want to run the wiring needed for the brake controller. Thinking of Redarc - so to my question

Is there a recommended wire gauge for the brake controller wiring?

All the best

Laurie

[geoffmc]

Hi all,

well i finally got around to installing my Tow pro today. The install went well, as per Sniegy's instructions without any dramas, until i hooked up the camper. The following is a run down of what works and what doesnt:
- All the trailer lights work - Good
- The remote head lights up without the camper attached - Good
- The Tow pro doesnt recognize that the camper is attached - Bad
- The Disco doesnt recognise the camper is attached, when reverse is selected the sensors still go off - Bad
- When i close any door after getting out, the camper lights flash - Bad
- Green trailer indicator doesnt flash with camper attached - Bad
- The camper brakes dont work - Very bad!

According to the Tow Pro instructions, the indicator light sequence suggests nothing is connected. I wired everything up as per the instructions here:
- Blue Tow pro wire to cut and terminated Brown wire below splice joint
- Red Tow Pro wire into Red car loom wire, below 6 amp diode (with diode stripe facing towards the trailer plug). The only difference here is that i cut the red wire and spliced the diode and Tow Pro red wire in.

https://s26.postimg.org/ihv8g30lh/my_disco.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ihv8g30lh/)
What am i missing? Do you guys have any suggestions?

Any suggestions really appreciated.

cheers
Geoff

[LRD414]

You don't mention cutting the brown wire Geoff. This is critical.

Scott

[geoffmc]

You don't mention cutting the brown wire Geoff. This is critical.

Scott

Scott,

yes i did cut the brown wire, below the splice joint. I connected the Blu/black tow prow wire to this and terminated it at the cut splice end.

cheers
Geoff

[Nod]

Howdy Geoff,

Sounds like atleast 2 different issues:

1. D4 not recognising trailer
Does the trailer have LED lights?
Have you installed load resistors across one (or both) of the blinker circuits?
If the above, then yes:
"Green trailer indicator doesnt flash with camper attached - Bad".
"The Disco doesnt recognise the camper is attached, when reverse is selected the sensors still go off - Bad".
"When i close any door after getting out, the camper lights flash - Bad".

2. Tow Pro install
"The remote head lights up without the camper attached - Good". Do you mean when you press the button? It should "breathe".
"The Tow pro doesnt recognize that the camper is attached - Bad". I have an older version of the new Tow Pro and it does not light up without a load on the blue wire ie. sees the electric brakes connected. Before calibration you get alternate flash. After calibration blue/green depending on mode.
From the picture I cannot determine if the wiring is correct.
Do you have a voltmeter? At the Tow Pro check for +12V on Black to ground (White). No voltage between Red and ground, until brake peddle applied (with ignition on).
When you push the Tow Pro button does the trailer brake lights come on?
Is the trailer proven or new? Electric brakes? Drum?

This should start to indicate if your wiring is correct.

Regards,
Gordon

[geoffmc]

Hi Gordon,

thanks for the quick reply. Below answers in Red


Howdy Geoff,

Sounds like atleast 2 different issues:

1. D4 not recognising trailer
Does the trailer have LED lights? YES, however the indicators still flash on the trailer
Have you installed load resistors across one (or both) of the blinker circuits? NO
If the above, then yes:
"Green trailer indicator doesnt flash with camper attached - Bad".
"The Disco doesnt recognise the camper is attached, when reverse is selected the sensors still go off - Bad".
"When i close any door after getting out, the camper lights flash - Bad".

2. Tow Pro install
"The remote head lights up without the camper attached - Good". Do you mean when you press the button? It should "breathe".YES it breathes when i push the button
"The Tow pro doesnt recognize that the camper is attached - Bad". I have an older version of the new Tow Pro and it does not light up without a load on the blue wire ie. sees the electric brakes connected. Before calibration you get alternate flash. After calibration blue/green depending on mode.
From the picture I cannot determine if the wiring is correct I removed the unit from my old 150 Prado and it stayed a solid blue when the camper was connected.
Do you have a voltmeter? At the Tow Pro check for +12V on Black to ground (White). No voltage between Red and ground, until brake peddle applied (with ignition on).
When you push the Tow Pro button does the trailer brake lights come on? NO
Is the trailer proven or new? Electric brakes? Drum?​ Existing camper, no problems in the past

This should start to indicate if your wiring is correct.

Regards,
Gordon

[geoffmc]

Gordon,

Some pics as requested. Also, whenever i close any door, it illuminates the camper brake lights!
Blue/Black wire into brown
https://s26.postimg.org/s3oswdrr9/blue_black_into_brown.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/s3oswdrr9/)

Brown wire below splice cut
https://s26.postimg.org/4dzd7otdx/brown_below_splice_cut.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/4dzd7otdx/)

Diode wiring
https://s26.postimg.org/powxbybid/diode.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/powxbybid/)

[geoffmc]

Gordon,

This is the wiring diagram i have used (yes it is crude)

https://s26.postimg.org/r58fu3ef9/wiring_diagram.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/r58fu3ef9/)

cheers
Geoff

[geoffmc]

So not being able to sleep, as this is doing my head in, i went into the garage to take some voltage readings. Interesting that pin 6 shows voltage (12.5v) when i press the brake pedal and then also 12.5 volts when i hold the tow pro button! That says to me there is something amiss with the diode wiring somehow (whether i have reversed the diode, or soldered it in incorrectly within the red brake wire.

More investigations tomorrow.

cheers
Geoff

[Nod]

Howdy Geoff,


1. D4 not recognising trailer
The trailer LED lights are not sufficient load on the blinker circuits for the D4 to detect it. You will have to add a NARVA 21W load resistor across either (or both) blinker circuits at the trailer to increase the load.
When you close the drivers door the D4 sends out a pulse on the indicator circuits to try and sense a trailer load, this is the LED flash you are seeing. Your trailer does not present enough load to be detected. Only one load resistor is actually required.... some of us like symmetry.
There are many threads on the forum detailing various methods to install the resistor(s).

2. Tow Pro install
Looks as if you are very close... as far as I can ascertain... the wiring looks correct (diode orientation)... your wiring diagram is fine, though the diode picture is unclear with an additional line.
Breathing is good.
Lighting up/detecting the trailer attached is good.
Braking and pushing the Tow Pro button turning on the trailer brake lights is good.

"Whenever i close any door, it illuminates the camper brake lights!"... means that the brown (pin 5) and black (pin 7) wires are swapped. These are the 2 wires that are at joined at the splice in the rear cubby.
Is the tow plug the original 12N & 12S or has it been changed to a different connector (7 or 12 pin flat)??
You need to check that the brown goes to pin 5 and the black to pin 7.

Attached is a diagram that may help.

Regards,
Gordon

[geoffmc]

Hey Gordon,

See answers in red below. Scott dropped in to my place today and connected his car to my trailer and everything worked perfectly, all trailer lights and the brakes. Then connected up to my car and the brakes dont work, but all the lights do.


Howdy Geoff,


1. D4 not recognising trailer
The trailer LED lights are not sufficient load on the blinker circuits for the D4 to detect it. You will have to add a NARVA 21W load resistor across either (or both) blinker circuits at the trailer to increase the load. All trailer lights work fine, connected to the D4. Even the brake lights work when pushing the Tow Pro Knob
When you close the drivers door the D4 sends out a pulse on the indicator circuits to try and sense a trailer load, this is the LED flash you are seeing. Your trailer does not present enough load to be detected. Only one load resistor is actually required.... some of us like symmetry.
There are many threads on the forum detailing various methods to install the resistor(s) Should this cause the Tow Pro not to recognise the brake load though, as the lights work perfect.

2. Tow Pro install
Looks as if you are very close... as far as I can ascertain... the wiring looks correct (diode orientation)... your wiring diagram is fine, though the diode picture is unclear with an additional line.
Breathing is good.
Lighting up/detecting the trailer attached is good.
Braking and pushing the Tow Pro button turning on the trailer brake lights is good.

"Whenever i close any door, it illuminates the camper brake lights!"... means that the brown (pin 5) and black (pin 7) wires are swapped. These are the 2 wires that are at joined at the splice in the rear cubby Scott came and we checked his D4 and it did the exact same with the Trailer lights when doors are closed. His vehicle worked perfectly with my camper attached
Is the tow plug the original 12N & 12S or has it been changed to a different connector (7 or 12 pin flat)??
You need to check that the brown goes to pin 5 and the black to pin 7. YES. Although i think that my splice wire colours may be the issue. Mine has a single Brown wire into a splice joint, then Brown and Black out. I cut the Brown wire post splice and then connected to Blue/Black from the Tow Pro. How do i check if the Brown wire goes to pin 5?

Attached is a diagram that may help.

Regards,
Gordon

[Nod]

Howdy Geoff,

1. The indicator lights will still work even if the D4 does not actually detect the trailer (green indicator flashing with the indicator).
The car detecting the trailer supposedly sets up the car for the trailer load (turns off rear sensors, blind spot monitoring, changes shift points, etc.)
This has nothing to do with the TowPro.

2. The best way to ensure that you have the cables going to the correct pins (5 & 7) is to use a multimeter (ohm setting) to continuity check from one end to the other. Stick one of the meter probes in pin 5 and check if it is the brown or black in the rear cubby. Then check pin 7. This may need a additional bit of wire to be added on the end of a probe to extend the length.
The TowPro looks for load on its output (blue).

Regards,
Gordon

[geoffmc]

Thanks Gordon,

Ill check tomorrow night and advise. Lots of hair pulling, however on the positive, im learning LOTS about my D4 [bigsmile]

cheers
Geoff


Howdy Geoff,

1. The indicator lights will still work even if the D4 does not actually detect the trailer (green indicator flashing with the indicator).
The car detecting the trailer supposedly sets up the car for the trailer load (turns off rear sensors, blind spot monitoring, changes shift points, etc.)
This has nothing to do with the TowPro.

2. The best way to ensure that you have the cables going to the correct pins (5 & 7) is to use a multimeter (ohm setting) to continuity check from one end to the other. Stick one of the meter probes in pin 5 and check if it is the brown or black in the rear cubby. Then check pin 7. This may need a additional bit of wire to be added on the end of a probe to extend the length.
The TowPro looks for load on its output (blue).

Regards,
Gordon

[geoffmc]

Gordon,

Im also going to Download the wiring diagram from Topix, so that should help.

cheers
Geoff

[Learner]

SNIP

"Whenever i close any door, it illuminates the camper brake lights!"... means that the brown (pin 5) and black (pin 7) wires are swapped. These are the 2 wires that are at joined at the splice in the rear cubby.
Is the tow plug the original 12N & 12S or has it been changed to a different connector (7 or 12 pin flat)??
You need to check that the brown goes to pin 5 and the black to pin 7.

Attached is a diagram that may help.

Regards,
Gordon

Hi Gordon,
Do you mean the 7N & 7S plugs? If so, the useful table also needs to be updated.

Best Wishes,
Peter

[Nod]

Thanks Peter. Yeap noticed this a while back... and "break" instead of "brake".... but only have a bit map now.... one day!
Gordon

[Learner]

Thanks Peter. Yeap noticed this a while back... and "break" instead of "brake".... but only have a bit map now.... one day!
Gordon
Hi Again,
How did you draft the table originally? If it was Excel, I could redraft and forward it to you.

Best Wishes,
Peter

[geoffmc]

Hi guys,

well after scouring over the wiring multiple times, i decided to run my hands and eyes over the brown wire from the rear left cubby to the plug. I could get power to the cubby, but nothing at the plug. I removed the rear left tail light and there staring at me was the culprit, the brown wire had been pulled out of the connecting plug!!! I connected and soldered it back and and presto, the Tow Pro blue light illuminated when i connected the trailer [bigsmile]. The remote was flashing green on auto, but stayed solid green when i switched to manual, so it needs to calibrate tomorrow and then it should be good. The only thing i will do now, it go back over the wired joints and solder them all, take away possible weak links.

Now to wire in the resistors for the LED trailer lights and all is good. Thanks to everyone who gave their input and suggestions, particularly Gordon and Scott, who dropped in to my place on Sunday.

cheers
Geoff

[Nod]

Thanks Peter. Yeap... looks like Excel. If you update... please just post back under your name.
Gordon

[EDIT] Peter, after reading another post were Scott referred to 12S & 12N sockets... and a google search validated.... this is the correct name for the 7 pin sockets.

[geoffmc]

Hi All,

Seeing as ive managed to sort the brake control issues, i moved my focus to the LED light restrictions. I decided to make my own resistor box, in order to have the Car recognize the camper and enable the Trailer Sway Control. So, i built this, using a resistor kit (a pair), plastic box, plug, socket and 7 core cable. All up, the cost was $70 and my heart skipped a beat when i hooked up the camper via my new cable box, then the little trailer symbol showed up, for both left and right indicators! YAY, success. The resistors are 50w and i dont think that will be a problem, happy for comments though.

https://s26.postimg.org/eajqt1qkl/cable_2.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/eajqt1qkl/)

The inside, albeit i havent fastened the resistors to the steel frame yet, but you get the intent.

https://s26.postimg.org/ux1b24jid/cable_1.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/ux1b24jid/)

cheers
Geoff

[Learner]

Thanks Peter. Yeap... looks like Excel. If you update... please just post back under your name.
Gordon

[EDIT] Peter, after reading another post were Scott referred to 12S & 12N sockets... and a google search validated.... this is the correct name for the 7 pin sockets.

Sorry, but I just think that it is a common error and not one that should be promoted.

[LRD414]

Sorry, but I just think that it is a common error and not one that should be promoted.
Wrong. The 12N/12S terminology is straight from the Land Rover Electrical Wiring Diagram (one example below) and parts catalogue.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/399.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/V16gUS)

[Learner]

Hi LRD414,
Thanks for the correction.

I must admit, however, that I can't see the logic in that nomenclature.

Best Wishes,
Peter

PS: It's just as well that LR NEVER made an error in their printing.

[AndrewM]

I have replaced the 12N and 12S trailer plugs with a flat 12 pin trailer socket with reed switch (Narva 82074BL). Using the reed switch on the trailer socket plug enables the D4 to automatically recognise a trailer and activate all the trailer mode functions only when a trailer is plugged in.


The Anderson is on the end of the Traxide cable in a Trailer Vision Anderson SB175 Weather Proof Cover.


The 12 pin socket wiring is a combination of the original 12N and 12S harnesses and builds on what others have done earlier in this and other threads but automates “trailer recognition”. I started with a Linear Electronic Design Adapter module (LEDA) which is tucked under the rear aircon, behind the tow bar storage. This was just easier than mucking around with resistors, mountings, heat sinks and so on. The module taps into the yellow and green wires on the trailer harness as described elsewhere and in the LEDA's instructions and its on/off cable connects to a relay powered through the reed switch on the trailer socket. So whenever the trailer socket cover is opened, the relay activates, the module turns on, and the system sees a trailer has been attached. So no manual switching to remember to turn on or off or having the D4 permanently in trailer mode.


Warning: For no good reason I wired the socket as a plug - it was dark OK! Ha! So the wiring is a mirror image of what it should be. But it works on the camper and the boat so I’m happy. I may fix it sometime, but it is a big job as it’s all sealed now and the harnesses are quite short.


Power to the LEDA is from the old 12S harness ignition feed 12V red/white terminated on Pin 9 then via the pale blue jumper to one side of the reed switch. The other side of the reed switch feeds the relay via one of the 12S harness white earth wires that was surplus to my needs, identified by a bit of red tape at each end.


I used an ignition feed 12V so that there is no power draw when stopped for the night with the camper still plugged in. Only downside is that the D4 asks if a trailer is attached every time the ignition is turned on.


Trailer electric brake feed from the TowPro is the heavy black wire on Pin 5 between the red and white wires.


The red wire on pin 12 is a spare 12V feed from the second battery if ever required.


Next step is to make a cable for the CTEK battery charger or solar to power the blue/pink 12V battery feed from the 12S harness now on Pin 8.


In the last image you can see the ½ circle bit of red insulation tape used to stop the sensors detecting the Mitch Hitch. Looks a bit rough but very hi tech and works well.

Andrew

[Strop]

In the original post it recommends running a white wire to the -Ve battery terminal. If I am mounting a Redac Tow Pro in the drivers side kick panel can you run the -Ve wire (white) to the earth point located there or do you need to take it to the battery as described?

I have in the back if my mind that I read somewhere that nothing should be attached to battery earth connection.

[LRD414]

Read further down in first post. Earth post in front of battery is the suggested point for -ve connection. If another earth post is more convenient I wouldn't have thought there would be any difference.

Scott

[Strop]

Saw that Scott but I just put in my Traxide cabling and Tim points you to an earth point behind the kick cover. I ran a black 3mm wire to battery and was going to pick up the earth inside used by Tim. I was also thinking there would be no difference.

Still rereading all the thread - what size circuit breaker did you use?

Found it - 25 Amp

[Nod]

Any earth stud is good.... the metal body is a heavy duty wire!

[Strop]

As people have mounted their Redarc Tow Pro units on the light cluster, can anyone who has done it tell me if it would be possible to fit both the brake controller and a switch for some driving lights?

[rhinosm]

In a word, NO.

[davemh_80]

I'm looking for ideas on where to install the remote control knob in a D4. So far I've only seen sniegy's approach (lower panel left of column) and on the headlight switch panel. Does anybody have a suggestion for where to install this such that it can be removed at a later date without leaving a hole?

[kero]

I'm looking for ideas on where to install the remote control knob in a D4. So far I've only seen sniegy's approach (lower panel left of column) and on the headlight switch panel. Does anybody have a suggestion for where to install this such that it can be removed at a later date without leaving a hole?
Km

Above one of the cig. plugs.

Kero

[kero]

Km

Above one of the cig. plugs.

Kero
Sorry didn't see that bit about no holes

Kero

[Nod]

I install mine in place of the right cig socket... it took me over an hour to get the socket out without damaging it... you could say that getting the holding clips undone was fun! Sorry for the lousy photo... one that I already had. Picked up the rectangle plastic piece from Jaycar... cannot remember if it was a case lid or similar... which is double-side taped in place.

[Delafingcaw]

I'm picking up a new camper trailer on Saturday and so last week had an ECB and Anderson plug installed.
I went to Pedders in Phillip as on a previous visit I noticed some ECBs and I asked them if they fitted them - yep they do.
Dropped the D4 on Tuesday, gave them the document from post 540 in this thread I believe and tried to impress on them that it would be tricky and they better follow the instructions, and pointed them to the diode section for the LED lights.
Two hours later got a call from them to hear it was over their head and they'd drop the car at AutoCo across the road and they'd do it. I called them up to be sure they were confident, got a slightly defensive person on the line saying all was good, they were auto electricians after all. Labour though was estimated at $700.
End of the day, Pedders calls me to say the car isn't ready yet.
Next day around 4, I rock up to take delivery... car not ready yet, will take another hour or so. AutoCo guy asks where I want the remote control to be put. Apparently too big to sit next to the headlight switch he said... I said OK put it where you can but not in front of my knees. Since I had an appointment at 5, I returned the next morning; paid the $1,500 for parts and labour and slightly disgruntled went on my way.

They've assured me it works and tested it. I have no clue, I guess I will find out on Saturday?!?
The remote control is placed.... right in front of my left knee. Of course.
I'm no auto electrician but if I had two days of time, a slab of beer and a mate, I'm pretty sure I'd have cleared the job (and be comfortable trying to fix it if it didn't work!)

Wish me good luck on Saturday!

[sniegy]

As people have mounted their Redarc Tow Pro units on the light cluster, can anyone who has done it tell me if it would be possible to fit both the brake controller and a switch for some driving lights?
Yes ,Just mount the ETB Unit a little lower.

[jsonmurphy]

I've just completed my install... thanks all for the instructions. See below a few additional 'behind the scenes' pictures to help you out.
129919

Using a dremel will help a lot to make space behind the right-hand side of the light panel.
129920

This is how the switch looks from behind once mounted.
129921129922

[scarry]

Had mine fitted last week,they were very good,have done D3/4 before.
Fitted load resisters as well.
These guys really know what they are doing.

If anyone is in Brisbane,and wants one fitted,PM me.

[DiscoJeffster]

Looks good @jsonmurphy. I put mine over on the centre console.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/09/967.jpg

[Delafingcaw]

Referring to my earlier post on fitting the ECB in Canberra - thoroughly disappointed with AutoCo! After assuring me they knew what they're doing...

The car does not recognise the trailer! After reading all threads on this forum about the LED lights causing issues and me telling them... the D4 does not blink it's little trailer light when turning on an indicator [bigsad]. I bought a diode from JayCar and cut the red wire and inserted in the red wire, before the EBC wires join it, according to the helpful electrical diagram in the posts earlier, but that doesn't seem to fix the issue. Anyone know what else to do?

I am not confident they connected the wires as they were supposed to - one of the wires from the EBC is connected to a blue cable, not the brown one as suggested on the diagram...

They installed the Andersen plug as requested, but didn't install an interruptor to avoid the car battery run out when the engine is not running. Didn't even ask me if they had to...

They did not connect the reversing lights to the 7-pin I asked them to install. Their comment "oh but most trailers don't have reversing lights!". Again, too much to ask me?

I'm unsure what to do next - take the car back and ask that they fix this free of charge, knowing they do such a bad job at it? Or go and find someone else that I trust more? (the Ezytrail guy connected me with a bloke who inspected the work and seems much more friendly and knowledgeable at the same time).

Danny

[DiscoJeffster]

The detection of the trailer has nothing to do with the ECB, but is a function of ballast resistors on the trailer providing enough load on an indicator circuit for the vehicle to detect the trailer. If you have LED lights on the trailer, put the Narva 21W resistors on one or both of the trailers indicators in parallel and then it will detect it. Only one resistor is required but for the trailer thing to flash when turning both left and right, you might want to add to both sides.

[Biggogs69]

Hey guys,

I'm currently doing an Redarc tow pro EBC install as per Sniegy instructions, however on removing the rear tail light there is no splice joint.

The brown and black wires appear to be independent, do i just cut the brown and continue as Sniegy instructions or has the wiring changed over the years.

It's a MY12 D4

Thanks for the help...

[LRD414]

The splice moved from behind taillight to inside rear storage at some point. You can just cut and continue as per instructions from there behind the light.

[Biggogs69]

The splice moved from behind taillight to inside rear storage at some point. You can just cut and continue as per instructions from there behind the light.

Thanks for the quick reply LRD414...

Much appreciated

[Towcar]

I a little confused as I have a 2009MY10 RRS

I haven't had the car since New and couldn't see the splice for brown wire anywhere between rear tail light all the way to near rear seat.

I've attempted this 3 times now.

So I spliced the red and blue wires just in front of tail lights and am going to run + & - from the battery.

I soft tested this with a harness I made but Tekonsha didn't turn on. Maybe I need to ground to body.

Bringing up a common thread I know sorry- I haven't got that little fuse panel that d3s sem to have And I can't seem to find splice.

The brown wire was cut when I bought the car at the trailer plug- I found out when I changed to a square plug.

Do you think I can draw earth and power from the white plug if I wanted to? For a temporary fit to?

I've made a harness or am making one that runs through the car as I don't want something permanent and I only tow this boat like 4 times a year.

Thanks
Jeremy
Located in Melbourne

[LRD414]

Do you think I can draw earth and power from the white plug if I wanted to? For a temporary fit to?
Jeremy, yes power and earth are available in the white 12S plug. There is both constant live and switched power. The cable number designations have been posted quite a few times in threads, probably including this one.

Also, I have deleted your duplicate post in the D3 sticky thread so as to avoid splintering of assistance.

Regards,
Scott

[Towcar]

Thanks Scott,

Just can't seem to find this splice for the blue wire into taillight circuit.

If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be grateful.

I've been through the whole look, not with the bumper off however.

Cheers
Jeremy

[LRD414]

Jeremy what are you trying to do? I’m not following what you mean by blue wire and taillight circuit.

[Towcar]

I'm trying to find the wiring that needs to be altered in the loom, there is a brown wire connected to Black which links the taillight circuit to the brake feed I need to cut and re wire.
Can't seem to find it in the loom
Could it be on the other side or behind the bumper?

[LRD414]

You mentioned finding the brown wire cut at the trailer plug. I assume you mean right behind the plug? Can you just follow that brown wire backwards along the bumper and up behind the taillight and then into the vehicle? This can be done on D3s and D4s. Have you read right through the early parts of this thread and the D3 one to see if there’s mention of RRS differences?

[Towcar]

I will do this, pain in the A to take bumper off but i might have too.

The splice is just not where the thread says it should be - under the barcode in front or behind the taillight. Or anywhere i can see after 3 attempts.

So close yet so far.

Will keep you posted.

Cheers

Jeremy

[Towcar]

Ok, so I took the rear bar off, along with some bumper reinforcement.

It felt damn good to find a splice down near the bottom end of the loom.

Pretty sure my wiring is correct.

Photos below :)

Shared album - Jeremy Taylor - Google Photos (https://photos.app.goo.gl/NLvExO0FzOIQrCYE2)

If I have this wrong, can someone please let me know.

Thanks

Jeremy

[CB55]

Thank you, thank you, thank you.
We recently purchased a MY 16.5 HSE Discovery. Intention is to tow our AOR quantum.
Needed to fit electric brakes, so started to read this forum.
The fitting went perfect, and the car is amazing.
Thanks again AULRO.

[Drew53]

Hi Sneigy,

My first post so hopefully I get it right. I recently had my 2011 rrs fitted with a Hayman Reese electric brake controller and suffered what appears to be the usual problem of trailer brakes being activated when I turn on my headlights. I've had difficulty following other threads. My question is - can I follow your instructions for wiring a D4 on my rrs? Thanks in anticipation

[Tombie]

Yes

[kimbers74]

Hi Again

I was at the dealer where we are buying our caravan from today and he told me that i will need a special adaptor box from LR that connects to the trailer plug. I apparently need this due to the fact the caravan has LED lights and without this box the van will be like dodgy Xmas tree.

I am told this box will set me bag a further $250. Funny thing is i spoke to the landy dealer i am getting the vehicle from and he doesn't know much about this.

Can you shed some light on it for me.

Cheers
Paul

Hey Paul, yes u need a LED tow connect. I’m in the process of doing this all in few weeks. Google it. You will find a site for them.

[swordfish805]

Late last year we upgraded our 2012 D4HSE to a 2017 Discovery - just last week I connected the car to our caravan for the first time and discovered that Land Rover has still not changed the electronics in the car to recognise a van with LED lights (in other words, Tow Assist and the trailer icon that is meant to show when the indicator on the van/trailer lights are both not working with our van and its LED lights).

This is 2018 - you would think Land Rover could have reached the 21st century by now. I guess they look no further than the standard pitiful pommie caravan when assessing how their vehicles need to interact with vans and trailers.

[Stuzmiester69]

Check the thread on home made adaptor:
Trailer connection for Jayco 12 Pin plug (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/154891-trailer-connection-jayco-12-pin-plug.html)

Trailer connection for Jayco 12 Pin plug

Admittedly you do need to be handy with wiring but consider the advantages of being able to plug straight in to the Disco.

[Tombie]

Hey Paul, yes u need a LED tow connect. I’m in the process of doing this all in few weeks. Google it. You will find a site for them.

For a D4 all he needs is a simple pair of resistors...

[kimbers74]

For a D4 all he needs is a simple pair of resistors...

Really? That’s a huge saving if so. I’m getting a D4, 2014 model. Is that all I need too?

[veebs]

Really? That’s a huge saving if so. I’m getting a D4, 2014 model. Is that all I need too?

Arguably simpler still, as only a single resistor, wired in parallel to one of the indicator circuits, is needed. Narva make something suitable.

I ended up wiring up an adapter with a large round socket at one end, a large round plug at the other, and a resistor parallel to the left indicator circuit. When a trailer has incandescent lights I plug directly into the car. If LED, then I plug the trailer into one end of this adapter, then the other into the car to introduce sufficient resistance into the circuit. Mainly because I didn't want to root around with the car's wiring.

My own trailers are wired up with resistors or incandescents, so the adapter is only when pulling something i don't own

[Davetheaviator]

Hi all for not very good auto elec.., I follow these instructions for my disco 4 2.7 and worked a treat lot of reading then reading it again but bloody good work ... plugged it in and worked first time...[emoji1531][emoji1531][emoji1531]
Cheer
Dave

[dannyboydownunder]

143706

Hi - I am planning to install a Redarc Towpro Elite into by 2012 D4 using the details instructions in this post and was considering purchasing the Redarc Universal wiring kit - it is $290 and is recommended by Redarc but I had a look at a picture of the kit (shown above) and looks like the cable to rear of vehicle is in a plastic flexible tube which may make it difficult to install past pillars etc - does anyone have any experience or has anyone seen any threads on this ? (I did a search but could not find any postings) - thanks, dannyboydownunder

[Chilly]

Evening,

Apologises if this has been stated before but have not read all 60 odd pages yet.
Today I have removed the controller from my Range Rover Sport TDV8.
A REDARC which was on the car at putprchase.

They have wired the rear up:to the actual plug. Running the lead through the right hamd rear,(off side rear), grommet to light cluster and along the bumper to the plug. Seems nice and easy.

Just sharing.

Chilly

[DiscoDJ]

Hi everyone

I got my car back on Friday after a meeting a roo a few weeks ago. Read this thread front to back and front again while waiting so I was ready. Spent most of Saturday wiring up the redarc tow pro elite (3rd car now) brake controller and even took the camper trailer for a spin once done. All was fine, indicators ok, brakes and brake lights ok, brakes and brake lights on camper trailer working when pressing the manual override knob, fantastic - my soldering and crimping skills must have been satisfactory.

BUT

no trailer tail lights - like WTF? Where did I go wrong? How could everything else be working and not them? Checked and rechecked trailer wiring. Checked plug on car (please don't make me have to remove the bumper!), no it can't be that, can't be, please don't be. Please be something easier...

And it was.

Back to AULRO for a search and voila - the fuse in the lower glove box panel had blown. I think the neighbourhood heard the cheer when I found this. Replaced fuse and ALL is working - woo hoo. No trailer icon on the dash when indicating but I can almost live without it. Would be nice to have but does the 2014 D4 SDV6 HSE have this?

Did the 6amp diode and everything as per the instructions here. Thank you so much! Just wish the disco had the plug and play attachment like the 2014 RR Vogue had - a lot easier there.

Any help on the trailer icon would be good as I'd like to impress SWMBO with the functionality of the Disco and my awesome decision to stick with the Land Rover brand!

Update Need to get one of those resistor thingies. Even though the led's on the trailer work fine - the resistor thingy is what makes the icon pop up and gives you trailer sway control and new gear shift points. Thanks again all.

[DiscoJeffster]

Hi everyone

I got my car back on Friday after a meeting a roo a few weeks ago. Read this thread front to back and front again while waiting so I was ready. Spent most of Saturday wiring up the redarc tow pro elite (3rd car now) brake controller and even took the camper trailer for a spin once done. All was fine, indicators ok, brakes and brake lights ok, brakes and brake lights on camper trailer working when pressing the manual override knob, fantastic - my soldering and crimping skills must have been satisfactory.

BUT

no trailer tail lights - like WTF? Where did I go wrong? How could everything else be working and not them? Checked and rechecked trailer wiring. Checked plug on car (please don't make me have to remove the bumper!), no it can't be that, can't be, please don't be. Please be something easier...

And it was.

Back to AULRO for a search and voila - the fuse in the lower glove box panel had blown. I think the neighbourhood heard the cheer when I found this. Replaced fuse and ALL is working - woo hoo. No trailer icon on the dash when indicating but I can almost live without it. Would be nice to have but does the 2014 D4 SDV6 HSE have this?

Did the 6amp diode and everything as per the instructions here. Thank you so much! Just wish the disco had the plug and play attachment like the 2014 RR Vogue had - a lot easier there.

Any help on the trailer icon would be good as I'd like to impress SWMBO with the functionality of the Disco and my awesome decision to stick with the Land Rover brand!

Update Need to get one of those resistor thingies. Even though the led's on the trailer work fine - the resistor thingy is what makes the icon pop up and gives you trailer sway control and new gear shift points. Thanks again all.

Trailer sway is there no matter what. It’s simply a function of the stability control. Different shift points and disabled reverse sensors is enabled by trailer detection.

[DiscoDJ]

Thanks Disco Jeffstar.

Resistor box built and all good. Thanks for the confidence in trailer sway control too, I did read that so sorry for posting - seniors moment.

[Baytown]

Ok, help please!!!

I only want info suitable for my 2013 Discovery HSE as there’s just too much deviation in this thread!

I wired my Osborn Park supplied magic box as described. It came with no instructions!

Accessed the trailer loom in the Left rear quarter panel as shown in pic.

Yelow to Yellow

Brown to Green

White to Earth

When connected to my van with LED lights, I do not get the little trailer signal on the dash at any time, so effectively my vehicle doesn’t recognise the caravan.

‘What am I doing wrong???

Thanks folks for info on the 2013 and similar model of Disco.

Ken

149178149179149180

[Ferret]

When connected to my van with LED lights, I do not get the little trailer signal on the dash at any time, so effectively my vehicle doesn’t recognise the caravan.

It will only show when you use the blinkers. So you don't see it when you use the blinkers, correct?

[Baytown]

G’day Ferret.
No, no trailer display at any time.
I realise it comes on when the indicators are used, and that this is how the system identifies the electrical load but it’s not working with the unit connected to the factory trailer wiring loom located as shown in the picture.
Frustraiting to say the least!



It will only show when you use the blinkers. So you don't see it when you use the blinkers, correct?

[Ferret]

Not really familiar with what is in that particular black box (though I can image - a couple of resistors) but surely I would think that thing requires a switch to turn it on and off (ie isolate the load resistors when not needed) otherwise I think the vehicle would always be indicating a trailer is attached even when one is not (assuming it worked properly that is).

No switch?

[Baytown]

Nope, no physical switch,

Just the three wires to the indicators and earth, and the cable to the switched power supply at the fuse box.


Not really familiar with what is in that particular black box (though I can image - a couple of resistors) but surely I would think that thing requires a switch to turn it on and off (ie isolate the load resistors when not needed) otherwise I think the vehicle would always be indicating a trailer is attached even when one is not (assuming it worked properly that is).

No switch?

[Ferret]

Just the three wires to the indicators and earth, and the cable to the switched power supply at the fuse box.

Ok you have a wire to a power supply at the fuse box so you probably have some sort of switch within the black box itself which is maybe a bit smarter than just physically switching the device on and off line as you need it.

1) You actually have power at the black box from that wire or at least where you have tapped into what ever at the fuse box?
2) The fact you need power to the black box indicates to me you probably need your trailer connected up to switch the box online. When you say you don't see the green trailer icon on the dash, have you actually got your trailer connected at the same time?

Really think you need to be talking to the people you bought it from because wiring in a couple of load resistors in parallel with the trailer lights is pretty simple, there is not a lot that can go wrong. In it's most basic form it is not required to be powered from a switched wire so there is obviously a larger scope for something to be going wrong here.

BTW what did this thing cost. I'm in the middle of making my own. The Labronix modules at ~$270 seemed a bit out there to me since the basic parts cost ~$60 - $70.

[Baytown]

Thanks Ferret.

No, the unit does not function at all when the vehicle is fully connected to the caravan and
no trailer sign when indicators are on.

Yep, unfortunately the manufacturer doesn’t include instructions, but I’ll keep searching for info.

The unit was recommended by people here, but I can’t find the thread.

I think it was just over $200 from WA.

Thanks again.

Ken

[Ferret]

You say it was from Osborne Park WA. Could be from these people AutoSpark (https://www.autospark.com.au/location-osbornepark.shtml). These guys have a good reputation from friends I know though I have never used them personally.

While they do make a few things themselves (ie in house, unbranded odds and ends) was unaware they made D4 towing modules. Anyway it's something to try if you have no WA point of contact. Perhaps a call to see if it's one of their gadgets.

[Tankmat]

You say it was from Osborne Park WA. Could be from these people AutoSpark (https://www.autospark.com.au/location-osbornepark.shtml). These guys have a good reputation from friends I know though I have never used them personally.

While they do make a few things themselves (ie in house, unbranded odds and ends) was unaware they made D4 towing modules. Anyway it's something to try if you have no WA point of contact. Perhaps a call to see if it's one of their gadgets.

The unit is definately from Osborne Park AutoSpark and instructions should have been included, give Tim Wright a call (08) 9443 3411. An ON/OFF switch is included see image attached, I can't quite see the switch end in Baytown's picture from post 659.
149251

[Baytown]

Thank you Tank mat.
Fantastic help, but no, there certainly were no instructions.
Ill remove the wiring from the front of the unit to see what is there. I can’t remember from when I installed it 8 months ago. I wouldn’t be surprised it it does have the switch and I’ve failed to turn it on.
There was a lot going on in my life when I first fitted it.
Ill get back tomorrow with what I find, but I certainly don’t discount a major embarisment on my behalf![bigwhistle]
Thank you again.

Ken


The unit is definately from Osborne Park AutoSpark and instructions should have been included, give Tim Wright a call (08) 9443 3411 (tel:(08) 9443 3411). An ON/OFF switch is included see image attached, I can't quite see the switch end in Baytown's picture from post 659.
149251

[Baytown]

Hi Tankmat, fellas;

Ok, I’m an idiot. I did such a good job of installing the trailer module that I forgot that I installed d the on/off switch!

I looked at Tankmats’ photo, then back tracked my wiring and saw that I had indeed installed the switch. I just forgot about it.

I reinstalled, connected to the caravan, turned the indicators on, and Lo and behold, a flashing trailer icon on the dash, so I’m all set.

Thanks again folks for the assistance.

A very embarrassed Ken🙄
149292

[Tankmat]

Hi Ken,
We all have our bad days, glad it’s working fine now.
Cheers
Dean

[Macboy]

Here’s a cable tie solution to mounting a Tow Pro Elite under the steering wheel. Just four holes drilled into the plastic sides, and four cable ties. Neat, easily removed, and secure.

149899149900

[PcJac]

I like the location of the controller in the power socket area. Can anyone advise how to get access to this area. Been looking at videos of Console removal & looks easy until one tries to "Lift it up" I did not realise it weighs so much - or is it held down with more than the stated 2 screws.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
MY16 D4

[Fasn8n]

Here's another solution to mounting the tow pro elite control box under the dash.

There is a metal bracket that holds some sort of ECU/control box and the cables associated with it. All I did was simply remove the clips holdings the cables so that they could moved out of the way and then used the various holes already in the bracket to bolt the tow pro box to. So far, it seems to work and is pretty secure.

153396153397

[thesettler]

Hi
I recently completed my TowPro Elite install.



I ran the cables to the back of the car on the left (passenger) side in a flexible conduit. The conduit runs in the cavity with all the existing cable loom.
The controller unit sits in front of the firewall in the passenger side footwell. I made up a stainless steel plate and mounted the controller unit on it. The plate with controller itself is mounted on the same body brackets which the the Fan Blower is mounted on. I drilled a hole in the stainless steel plate, taken the bolt out of the fan blower mounting point and wedged the stainless steel plate in between the frame and the fan mounting bracket. Hopefully the photos are self explanatory.
The remote head assembly is installed in the right centre console powerpoint hole
I took a 6mm cable from the battery and ran it through the wiring loom grommet behind the battery to pop out in the passenger footwell.
The 30Amp Fuse is mounted on the brackets of the fan blower (next to all the other fuses in the CJB) and connected to the 6mm cable from the battery.


I hope it all makes sense.

Photos in my dropbox link here (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/p7s9huv3u5l7hfz/AACBoOtmd0sAYStaP73MmKAra'dl=0).

[dwaters]

Hi guys,

I have installed a Redarc Tow Pro Elite to my 2016 Disco.
I think I have installed it as per drawings but it appears that when I turn on my lights, the brakes are activated as well.

Is the diode required on late model vehicles?
Could this be the problem?165100

Thanks
Darren

[LRD414]

Nothing to do with the diode. Sounds like you didn’t cut the brown wire and it’s still linked in with the light circuit as a result.

Scott

[dwaters]

Nothing to do with the diode. Sounds like you didn’t cut the brown wire and it’s still linked in with the light circuit as a result.

Scott
Thanks Scott,

check out the picture I attached.
the brown wire is cut so don’t think that’s the fault.
any suggestions would be much appreciated .

cheers
darren

[Tankmat]

Hi guys,

I have installed a Redarc Tow Pro Elite to my 2016 Disco.
I think I have installed it as per drawings but it appears that when I turn on my lights, the brakes are activated as well.

Is the diode required on late model vehicles?
Could this be the problem?

Thanks
Darren

Hi Darren,
From what I can see your wiring looks correct and the diode is in the correct place and orientation. The diode isn’t the problem and it is required, it is simply a safety device to stop erroneous signals from the electronic trailer brake unit feeding back to the central junction box.
It appears you ran red cables for both the sense wire (red) and feed wire (blue), any chance you accidentally connected them the wrong way around at the Tow pro unit?
The wires should be connected as follows.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/a6e2a53935a0308afe414e503a524fe5.jpg

Cheers
Dean

[dwaters]

Thanks Dean,

Yes I did think this but if they were crossed over, the brakes would not work at all I would have thought.
I have read that the diode is not required in some posts and I have also seen it wired direct in line so I am considering doing giving these options a try.
I will double check I have them around the right way first.165143165144
As you can see from a image I found on this forum, it appears the diode is wired in a different location compared to the wiring schematic.
I am confused...........

Thanks
Darren


Hi Darren,
From what I can see your wiring looks correct and the diode is in the correct place and orientation. The diode isn’t the problem and it is required, it is simply a safety device to stop erroneous signals from the electronic trailer brake unit feeding back to the central junction box.
It appears you ran red cables for both the sense wire (red) and feed wire (blue), any chance you accidentally connected them the wrong way around at the Tow pro unit?
The wires should be connected as follows.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/a6e2a53935a0308afe414e503a524fe5.jpg

Cheers
Dean

[Tankmat]

As you can see from a image I found on this forum, it appears the diode is wired in a different location compared to the wiring schematic.
I am confused...........

Thanks
Darren

Hi Darren,
In the early days I recall several people placed the diode in the wrong position (ie where the circle is on your wiring schematic, the red sense wire). While this worked it did not protect the CJB and prevented the trailer brake lights coming on during manual override application of the trailer brakes.
Cheers
Dean

[dwaters]

Thanks Dean,

I point to pointed the cables and they buzzed out correct.
I put the diode as per the picture I sent you and it appears to be working ok now.
I took my van for a spin and it was flashing blue/green for a little bit while calibrating, then it when hard on blue.
I turned my lights on and off a few times and the brakes did not activate!
Not sure what the problem was but it possible won't work in manual overide but I never use this anyway.

Thanks
Darren


Hi Darren,
In the early days I recall several people placed the diode in the wrong position (ie where the circle is on your wiring schematic, the red sense wire). While this worked it did not protect the CJB and prevented the trailer brake lights coming on during manual override application of the trailer brakes.
Cheers
Dean

[Mog60]

The PDF version is suitable to protect vehicle from a Tow Pro failure that "may" send a high current out to the CJB. The diode is in the sense wire in this version.

However, this version does not illuminate the vehicle brake lights when the manual trailer brake button is pressed.

This issue is fixed by the version in the jpg file. The CJB is still protected but the brake signal can travel from controller to brake light during manual operation.

One issue with the jpg version: the diode size needs to be increased because 3A is potentially not enough for the full current required for say 4 x trailer lights. You may have noted a few people have increased diode size to 6A for this arrangement.

Regards,
Scott

I have a couple of questions that I would be grateful to have answered by the experts please.

I have just found out my Auto elec only installed a 4 amp diode (but in the correct spot 2014 Discovery 4). Is this going to be OK or do I need to get it changed out for a 6 amp diode?

If this 4 Amp diode receives a potentially full current e.g. when pressing the control button on the Tow Pro Elite brake controller, does the diode just fail and break the circuit?

I will be towing a TVan which has led lights but I intend to add Narva 21W load resistors into the middle of a trailer plug adapter soon.

Many thanks in advance. Peter

[Defenderbuff]

Morning all,
Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
Pin3 White Earth
Pin4 Green Right Indicator
Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
Pin6 Red Brakes
Pin7 Brown Tail lights


As per usual 4 wires:-
Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/3.jpg

What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/4.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/5.jpg

The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/6.jpg

On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

Cheers all.

p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.

Hi Sneigy, I found your post and then started looking for same on a L320 2012 but got redirected here.
I have followed your directions but cannot seem to find the splice on the brown wire behind the left rear taillight.
Any update on difference on a L320?
Also, I don’t how to post a photo
Have just recently purchased the RRS to ad to the 2010 Disco 4 which already has electric brake controller but I didn’t install.

[Tankmat]

cannot seem to find the splice on the brown wire behind the left rear taillight.


On the later D4s the splice moved from originally outside, below the tail light to inside the rear LHS compartment where the tow hitch receiver is stored. It is usually wrapped in a white sticker that you need to remove.https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/5cbb2df4debc72a05e9021d0faac071e.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/b71d387b02e9e541651f391882f1d9a3.jpg

[gotaflat]

ok,

Not sure what I am looking at here but my brake controller is dead. cant get any LED to go on the remote. I am getting a trailer stop lamp fault

168852


in addition i am getting all 4 reverse sensor errors.

I have had a look a the splices in the rear LH (light splices) thinking there could be a error.. - and found this (had auto elect install some 8/9 years ago)

168853
168854
168855
168856


apart from the resistor - and **** load of dust / dirt [biggrin] i cant see an issue - however - reading through I have not seen any one put a resistor in the circuit.

Any glaringly wrong??? if not suspect the controller is stuffed.

Resistor could be the issue? why is is it there ?

Appreciate any help

[gotaflat]

ok,

Not sure what I am looking at here but my brake controller is dead. cant get any LED to go on the remote. I am getting a trailer stop lamp fault

168852


in addition i am getting all 4 reverse sensor errors.

I have had a look a the splices in the rear LH (light splices) thinking there could be a error.. - and found this (had auto elect install some 8/9 years ago)

168853
168854
168855
168856


apart from the resistor - and **** load of dust / dirt [biggrin] i cant see an issue however - reading through I have not seen any one put a resistor in the circuit.

Any glaringly wrong??? if not suspect the controller is stuffed.

Resistor could be the issue? why is is it there ?

Appreciate any help

Update- no power to back splice (power through the front circuit breaker to the controller ok ) nothing seemingly out and to the back lights...

Assumption - Controller R##ted?

As for the reverse sensors - bumper has to come off to check all the wiring ... [bawl]

[Tombie]

Update- no power to back splice (power through the front circuit breaker to the controller ok ) nothing seemingly out and to the back lights...

Assumption - Controller R##ted?

As for the reverse sensors - bumper has to come off to check all the wiring ... [bawl]

Bumper comes off easy!

[imaz]

I found this black spliced wiring on the passenger side, I believe it goes to the back tow loom brown wire tap. Looks like a non factory install. I’m not sure why this would be required, as there is already a black tail light tap into the brown wire further in the tow bar loom.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210322/6102f8d0f2abcb3a7cb61ab7d5cbfcea.jpg

Goes here.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210322/0b57f13d4f83bd95599f53675e524d68.jpg

On the same brown trailer loom further down, factory black parking light tap. Mind you, this brown wire is FOR pin 5 brake controller, hence I have cut the brown.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210322/74a881e0f7c28390dd71b22fead328f3.jpg

[stuarth44]

i have 7.87 vdc at pin 5, over 12 on the others
there is a redarc ebtm but no idea where the module is, the control knob lights red when trailer is disconnected, goes out when connected, the brakes slam on when connected to a battery, nothing when coupled to the d4
my query, will the voltage rise when towing, which'd seem odd because the redarc seems an older model, as it is when the D4 is running volts are into 13.s but at pin still 7.87
or should i try connecting the brake wire into pin 4, (service brakes}
Any help would be welcome, especially info on voltage at socket pin 5

[Tombie]

i have 7.87 vdc at pin 5, over 12 on the others
there is a redarc ebtm but no idea where the module is, the control knob lights red when trailer is disconnected, goes out when connected, the brakes slam on when connected to a battery, nothing when coupled to the d4
my query, will the voltage rise when towing, which'd seem odd because the redarc seems an older model, as it is when the D4 is running volts are into 13.s but at pin still 7.87
or should i try connecting the brake wire into pin 4, (service brakes}
Any help would be welcome, especially info on voltage at socket pin 5

Variable voltage is how the brakes work…
Wind it right up and test.

[stuarth44]

Variable voltage is how the brakes work…
Wind it right up and test.
I thought as much, will do a tow test tomorrow thanks

[stuarth44]

Variable voltage is how the brakes work…
Wind it right up and test.

but no green when coupled up, coupled up no red on pedal, uncoupled red on pedal depression, stumped now

[imaz]

but no green when coupled up, coupled up no red on pedal, uncoupled red on pedal depression, stumped now

If you had the Redarc installed by a technician, you ought to check the wiring. I have found one vehicle where they installed the brake controller to the blue wire on the trailer socket. In theory the blue is the brake trigger output in all makes, BUT on a Landrover is bloody brown! Just saying... this caused a whole tonne of wierd behaviours when the trailer was attached.

[stuarth44]

If you had the Redarc installed by a technician, you ought to check the wiring. I have found one vehicle where they installed the brake controller to the blue wire on the trailer socket. In theory the blue is the brake trigger output in all makes, BUT on a Landrover is bloody brown! Just saying... this caused a whole tonne of wierd behaviours when the trailer was attached.

yes, took me forever to track wiring, which was done really well, finally found the live wire dropped down beside the battery, somebody must have left it off, meanwhile it took just 15 mins to swap the unit for the latest, control will need moving, as it was was on the left of the wheel low down, think I'll place it on the same panel as the round light switch.
thanks for assistance, I'd best check out what you have said

[WabiSabi]

So I’ve ordered the redarc tow-pro trailer break controller for my 2010 D4 so I can tow the new camp trailer.

There’s 70 pages of posts here and I’ve had a bit of a scan and search but can anyone confirm which wiring loom I need to order?

Is it the universal extended one? Universal Tow-Pro Extended Wiring Kit | REDARC Electronics (https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-universal-extended-wiring-kit-tpwkit014)

And do I also select the universal switch insert?

I presume there still isn’t a plug and play for the 2010 D4?

Thanks.

[imaz]

So I’ve ordered the redarc tow-pro trailer break controller for my 2010 D4 so I can tow the new camp trailer.

There’s 70 pages of posts here and I’ve had a bit of a scan and search but can anyone confirm which wiring loom I need to order?

Is it the universal extended one? Universal Tow-Pro Extended Wiring Kit | REDARC Electronics (https://www.redarc.com.au/tow-pro-universal-extended-wiring-kit-tpwkit014)

And do I also select the universal switch insert?

I presume there still isn’t a plug and play for the 2010 D4?

Thanks.

The universal wiring kit isn’t really required if you can get hold of some 30amp wiring. Redarc universal wiring kit seems rather expensive.

There is a sticky post on what needs to be done, check it out as it’s relatively straightforward.

[WabiSabi]

The universal wiring kit isn’t really required if you can get hold of some 30amp wiring. Redarc universal wiring kit seems rather expensive.

There is a sticky post on what needs to be done, check it out as it’s relatively straightforward.

Thanks Imaz that makes sense now.

Happy to get some 30amp and go down that route. I’ve been looking through the sticky posts, you mean the one we are in now yeah? Just that it’s 12 years old now so making sure nothing has changed on the redarc side.

Cheers

[Tankmat]

Thanks Imaz that makes sense now.

Happy to get some 30amp and go down that route. I’ve been looking through the sticky posts, you mean the one we are in now yeah? Just that it’s 12 years old now so making sure nothing has changed on the redarc side.

Cheers

Have a look at post 450 from strydes in this thread which contains a detailed PDF overview. I highly recommend getting a Redarc diode, much better product and makes the job so much easier. I ran narva twin core 6mm (4.58mm2) 50Ahttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/8826404c9583105c01b1fefc0cea7ac9.jpg

[WabiSabi]

Brilliant I will check it out. Thanks

[Romer]

hi sniegy
thanks for this post it has answered a lot of my questions. I have removed the LHS tail light and tape from the harness for a few centimetres but there is no split in the cable. I have removed the inside panel and located the harness from the trailer plug. If I cut the blue cable and connect the controller output to the blue cable will this work. Then splice into the red for the input for the controller.
any advice appreciated
Romer.




Morning all,
Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
Pin3 White Earth
Pin4 Green Right Indicator
Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
Pin6 Red Brakes
Pin7 Brown Tail lights


As per usual 4 wires:-
Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/3.jpg

What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/4.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/5.jpg

The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/6.jpg

On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

Cheers all.

p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.

[Tombie]

hi sniegy
thanks for this post it has answered a lot of my questions. I have removed the LHS tail light and tape from the harness for a few centimetres but there is no split in the cable. I have removed the inside panel and located the harness from the trailer plug. If I cut the blue cable and connect the controller output to the blue cable will this work. Then splice into the red for the input for the controller.
any advice appreciated
Romer.

He hasn’t logged on since 2020.

The splice is there, either outside or inside the vehicle body.

[Tankmat]

Romer have a look at the pictures in post 684. On the later D4s the splice moved from originally outside, below the tail light to inside the rear LHS compartment where the tow hitch receiver is stored. It is usually wrapped in a white sticker that you need to remove.
Also there is a great summary PDF of this thread in post 450

[Enduro]

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread for the wealth of great information.

When my D4 in connected to my camper trailer and the tail/side lights are on then the trailer brakes are activated. The trailer lights are LEDs. The tail/side lights and brake lights share the same physical LEDs. Note that the trailer brakes work correctly when the tail/side lights are off. My brake controller is a Redarc Tow Pro Classic.

I ran an experiment with trailer connected, tail/side lights on and the brake lights/pin 6/red wire disconnected in the trailer plug. Adjusting the brake controllermeasured the voltage on knob produced no voltage on the trailer brakes wire. When brake pedal was pressed the brake controller worked correctly. So my conclusion was that the problem was caused by the LED trailer lights.

To investigate further, I disconnected the trailer plug from my D4 and applied 12V to the tail lights/pin 7/brown wire and measured the voltage on brake lights/pin 6/red wire. It was 8.8V. I also applied 12V to brake lights/pin 6/red wire and measured the voltage on tail lights/pin 7/brown wire. It was 7.2V. So my conclusion is that when trailer is connected and the tail/side lights are on then the brake lights/pin 6/red wire activates the brake controller.

Do I need a diode in the brake lights/pin 6/red wire to fix the problem?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas.

Regards, John

[Tombie]

Thanks to all the contributors to this thread for the wealth of great information.

When my D4 in connected to my camper trailer and the tail/side lights are on then the trailer brakes are activated. The trailer lights are LEDs. The tail/side lights and brake lights share the same physical LEDs. Note that the trailer brakes work correctly when the tail/side lights are off. My brake controller is a Redarc Tow Pro Classic.

I ran an experiment with trailer connected, tail/side lights on and the brake lights/pin 6/red wire disconnected in the trailer plug. Adjusting the brake controllermeasured the voltage on knob produced no voltage on the trailer brakes wire. When brake pedal was pressed the brake controller worked correctly. So my conclusion was that the problem was caused by the LED trailer lights.

To investigate further, I disconnected the trailer plug from my D4 and applied 12V to the tail lights/pin 7/brown wire and measured the voltage on brake lights/pin 6/red wire. It was 8.8V. I also applied 12V to brake lights/pin 6/red wire and measured the voltage on tail lights/pin 7/brown wire. It was 7.2V. So my conclusion is that when trailer is connected and the tail/side lights are on then the brake lights/pin 6/red wire activates the brake controller.

Do I need a diode in the brake lights/pin 6/red wire to fix the problem?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts or ideas.

Regards, John

Diode protects the CJB.

You need to split out the cable joiner.

The problem is caused by improper wiring, not the lights.

[Enduro]

Diode protects the CJB.

You need to split out the cable joiner.

The problem is caused by improper wiring, not the lights.

Thanks Tombie. I did more investigation of the trailer wiring. I tested the trailer lights is isolation that is with the lights are not connected to the trailer wiring. One of the LED trailer lights is faulty and generates 8.8V on the brake lights wire when the tail lights are on. Problem solved!

[Bigjeff]

Hi all. I have just fitted a tow pro to my D4 after what I thought to be thorough research of this thread locating splice at the rear tow hitch storage area. Cut brown wire joining to blue ect.
I have no led colours on the button so hooked up a globe to test the controls at the trailer plug and got a bright light with brakes on but no variable brightness using the dial. I then cut the brown/blue wire feeding number 5 pin and I expected no power at the trailer plug but it’s still live So my thoughts are my tow pro is dodgy at the button but confused about the brown wire feeding number 5 pin. Any thoughts on this would be fantastic I’d like to avoid pulling the rear bar off if possible.
cheers

[imaz]

Hi all. I have just fitted a tow pro to my D4 after what I thought to be thorough research of this thread locating splice at the rear tow hitch storage area. Cut brown wire joining to blue ect.
I have no led colours on the button so hooked up a globe to test the controls at the trailer plug and got a bright light with brakes on but no variable brightness using the dial. I then cut the brown/blue wire feeding number 5 pin and I expected no power at the trailer plug but it’s still live So my thoughts are my tow pro is dodgy at the button but confused about the brown wire feeding number 5 pin. Any thoughts on this would be fantastic I’d like to avoid pulling the rear bar off if possible.
cheers

Do you have a photo of when you joined the brown? I had to locate where it splits which was further inside the loom factory tape.

[Bigjeff]

Do you have a photo of when you joined the brown? I had to locate where it splits which was further inside the loom factory tape.
178101Hi imaz. I just dropped the spare and followed brown to the 12n plug. Looked original tested again and it started working at times still with no leds on the dial Further persistence and it now seems to do as it’s meant to just without the dial lighting up now have what sounds like a relay clicking at the park brake Buggered if I know

[imaz]

178101Hi imaz. I just dropped the spare and followed brown to the 12n plug. Looked original tested again and it started working at times still with no leds on the dial Further persistence and it now seems to do as it’s meant to just without the dial lighting up now have what sounds like a relay clicking at the park brake Buggered if I know

The dial will light up once connected to a trailer with electric brake, and the first time will take some time to calibrate. You can not do any simulation with a test lamp and expect variable glow. Press the dial, it should light up blue since it’s not connected to anything.

Since you are going to tow, you may know but I’ll remind you - add some resisters or make up a resister plug for the indicator circuits. Assuming the trailer in tow uses LED tail lamps, else tows like crap.

[stuarth44]

Morning all,
Thought i would post up some photo's i have for the new D4 Electric trailer brakes.
The wiring has changed in the Discovery 4 which is a good thing as it is easier to wire.
Now lets begin & hopefully it will be clear for all to follow.

Trailer Plug info(7 Pin Plug):- Australian Regs:-
Pin1 Yellow Left Indicator
Pin2 Black Reverse/Auxilary
Pin3 White Earth
Pin4 Green Right Indicator
Pin5 Blue Electric trailer brakes/Auxilary
Pin6 Red Brakes
Pin7 Brown Tail lights


As per usual 4 wires:-
Black +ve direct to battery via Circuit Breaker.
White -ve direct to battery/battery post.
Red Connection to brake light wire in trailer loom.
Blue Connection to Pin No. 5 on Black trailer plug socket.
You will need to run Black & White wire to the front of the vehicle & the Red & Blue wire to the rear of the vehicle under the L/H/S tail light.
All 4 wires will run from the position you decide to place your Electric trailer brake unit. (normally at the L/H top edge of the panel under the steering wheel).
When removing this panel just grab the top section & pull in an arc downward, if you brake, lose the clips the part number is FYC500040.

In this photo below i have had to find the splice joint in the wiring loom for the park light circuit (all European vehicles run a left & a right park light circuit in there vehicle wiring loom)
It is basically one wire feeding 2 Pin outs. (Pin 7 is our park light circuit & Pin 5 is our supply for our Electric trailer brake varying voltge).
Remove the L/H/R tail light assembly by undoing the 2 phillips head screws & then prising the light gentry from the body with a flat blade & cloth inserted between them so as not to scratch the paint work.
Cut away the black tape on the loom that goes down to the bottom connector, you will come across the splice joint (brown cable with glue coming out on connection-you will notice it starts as a black wire only & after this splice joint it will have a brown & black coming out). The black wire goes to Pin no. 7 & is your park light wire, the brown wire is the other park light wire that we do not need & connect the blue wire to for your trailer brakes. Cut wire as close to splice as possible, tape splice joint up & connect your blue wire to the brown wire that now goes to the plug in the wiring loom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/3.jpg

What we have done is basically supply the cut brown wire the varying voltage for your trailer brakes via the blue wire we have run.
The red wire just connects to the red wire in the same loom that goes to the bottom plug, this is the brake light wire pick up.
In this photo you can just make out the 2 connections & the cut of the brown wire.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/4.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/5.jpg

The photo above just shows the exit point on the firewall (rubber grommet) that i passed the cable through. This is on the drivers side brake booster compartment.
Below shows how i cable tied up nice & neatly the Black & White wire to connect directly to the battery via a Circuit breaker & Earth post next to the Main battery box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/6.jpg

On the new vehicles there is no 2nd fuse box in the rear nor the need for the Diode.

Cheers all.

p.s. sorry for the poor quality images, from my phone. Will hopefully get better pics when i can.

so helpful, but on my d4 2015 I can not figure how to lower the panel under the steering wheel, on my 2010 it just pulls down?

[loanrangie]

Is the diode required for a D4 MY12 , friend is having issues with a dodgy install and i doubt they fitted one. Sneigy's original post said not required but i haven't read thru the rest to confirm.

[Tombie]

so helpful, but on my d4 2015 I can not figure how to lower the panel under the steering wheel, on my 2010 it just pulls down?

D4? Pull harder!

[Tombie]

Is the diode required for a D4 MY12 , friend is having issues with a dodgy install and i doubt they fitted one. Sneigy's original post said not required but i haven't read thru the rest to confirm.

All D3 onwards should have the diode

[Graeme]

D4? Pull harder!...from the top - it's hooked in at the bottom.

[loanrangie]

All D3 onwards should have the diode

Thanks, haven't looked at it yet but i'm expecting a **** show.