bodgy tyre repair job

[dobbo]

During a race I went in last weekend I tore open my rear tyre and grazed the tube subsequently developing a slow leak on the tyre. Not wanting to make matters worse and have to ride on a brand new rim or carry the bike for the remainder of the race I decided to quickly patch it up, it's kinda hard to patch up a tyre quickly so I asked myself the question, what would the king of Bodge jobs do in this situation? We had no electrical tape so chewing gum and a crepe bandage had to suffice. It worked and surprisingly lasted with air in the tube till the next morning.

2261622617
You may laugh, but it worked and we only lost two minutes

Also a question

Had to get a new tyre today, decided to go a bit bigger up from 1.95 up to 2.20. There is only 5mm clearance between the tyre and frame and again on the tyre and V brake. I cannot see an issue. I have the original 1.95 on the front (they only had one 2.20 left on special) so the front sits a tad lower. Any problems having it like this short term?

[isuzurover]

Had to get a new tyre today, decided to go a bit bigger up from 1.95 up to 2.20. There is only 5mm clearance between the tyre and frame and again on the tyre and V brake. I cannot see an issue. I have the original 1.95 on the front (they only had one 2.20 left on special) so the front sits a tad lower. Any problems having it like this short term?

Love your work!!!

I am not sure why you want bigger on an XC race bike? Most people want to go smaller to save weight. (that said, I run 2.5s on my FR bike...)

It would be preferable to put the fatter tyre on the front and the skinny on the rear. The theory is the same as with cars - you need traction at the front more than traction at the back.

Or - to put it another way: Oversteer is when the passengers are scared, Understeer is when the driver is scared.

[richard4u2]

back in the days in the post office as a postie we had thorn proof tyers you pump em up rock hard and nothing stoped them, you might have to put a bit more effort into it when in a race but you didnt have to stop for any reason, but those were the days when men were men :D

[Blknight.aus]

so long as the rubber aint rubbing you can run what you like. and theres no problem running a skinnier tyre front or rear.

on the soft stuff I used to prefer the fatter more agressive rubber at the back and I used to throw the weight back and "float" the front wheel over the soft patches

on the slippery surfaces that could hold weight Id have the fat agressive stuff at the front.


Good drills on the bodge.

[HBWC]

nice one have you thought about dobble tyreing the rear???

[rovercare]

Where does the engine go?:confused:

[bee utey]

Where does the engine go?:confused:
Here:

[jaseh]

Just go tubeless with sealant and you will not have to worry too much about a flat tyre again.

[isuzurover]

Just go tubeless with sealant and you will not have to worry too much about a flat tyre again.

Yeah - maybe time for the cheap tubeless system. You need two BMX tubes and some sealant. Cut the BMX tube around the outer perimeter and stretch it over the rim. Trim off the excess once you have the tyre on.

[mox]

back in the days in the post office as a postie we had thorn proof tyers you pump em up rock hard and nothing stoped them, you might have to put a bit more effort into it when in a race but you didnt have to stop for any reason, but those were the days when men were men :D

I also had 28 inch thornproof tyres on a bike many years ago. More recently have had a 26 inch bike with "thornproof " tubes with rubber about as thick as in car or tractor tubes with green "Slime" sealant in them .
However would still sometimes have flat problems with bindiis around here. Several months ago mentioned to local bike shop owner that would like to get thornproof tyres if they were available. He had some. Made in Indonesia, apparently in same mould as ordinary tyres as external appearance is identical. However, they are a lot thicker under the tread.

I think the story is that an importer in Geelong has had them made. Probably lots of bike shops would now at least have an idea where to get them. Retail price here for 26 inch one currently $30. Still running thornproof tubes with slime in them. Total cost to instal these items on bike about $100. Not cheap but worthwhile in areas where normal tyres and tubes would have lots of punctures.

[3 Sisters]

Go ghetto tubless.

[rick130]

Cool bodge Dobbo, I like your work. :D

A couple of things (and bear in mind I've been out of the MTB latest tech loop for a little while)

1. First up, double check your clearance, and it does depend on the course, but over a certain weight (eg, if you aren't a jockey) you'll go faster on fatter rubber with lower pressures.
I've nearly always run a fatter tyre on the front.

2. Latex tubes are faster, lighter and resist pinch flats much, much better than butyl tubes, I even run them on the roadie thanks to my fat arse.
Good luck trying to find them in Oz though, you'll probably have to mail order through someone like PBK or Chain Reaction in the UK.

2. Some tyres aren't anywhere near as big as the sidewall says, Conti were notorious for this, eg my front Conti's say 2.3, but they are only as big as others 2.2 and some 2.1's.

3. Schwalbe make some stupid fast, stupid light XC tyres. I have some weights written down somewhere and still have a pair of original Fast Freds.

Stupid light, stupid fast and stupidly sketchy :eek:
FF's are long gone, but Schwalbe are probably still my favourite off road tyre brand.

4. If you're game, run Stan's NoTubes or the Eclipse/ DT Swiss Tubelesskit.
Beats pinchflats and thorns, although you are still stuffed with gashes.
Arguments still rage over who's system is better and if I plonked down my hard earned I'd probably use the Eclipse kit.

and FWIW I still have the original recipe for Stans before he went commercial.
I'd have to dig it out, but we just used a type of 3M packaging tape in the rim bed, a cut off presta valve, I think some 3M eleccy tape over the packaging tape and a latex brew slopped around inside.

It all started on the MTBR Weight Weenies forum something like nine or ten years ago and we all tried and ran variations on it.
Hell, I think I'm still immortalised on the Starbike/Weight Weenies weights list as one of the 'original' weight weenie contributors.
Have digi scales, will buy, modify and fit the lightest :D