Thread: B100 & TD5 Experiences

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

bio diesel looses lubricity under extremely high pressure and temperatures.
This is going to be the downfall.

Ive covered it before but heres the summation of the summized summary

if your bio is perfect and your fuel system is spotlessly clean and you never run anything that isnt perfect you will be ok
If you have anything less than perfect the bio does not have the ability to deal with it once its in the injector and getting squished at 21000psi ish (no that is not a typo)

for those of you who just skim read my post read it again then come back here and read the bits highlighted in RED.

Originally Posted by lardy

dave bio should cost around 30c a litre once you have it perfected,and i beg to differ re the lower setane of bio it isn't correct it has a higher power potential than fossil diesel, it maybe just that whoever purchased land rover last produced a crap engine give me a 300 tdi any day

If your bio costs 30cpl to make then you are not declaring your excise to mr tax man and when he finds out he will hit you a, for tax evasion bye bye up to $25000 and potentiall hello to Bubba, friendly tip, dont drop the soap. excise is currently 38 CPL.

Originally Posted by zelko

OK obviously there is a lot of guys that have problems with it and there are lots of us that swear by it, maybe it all comes down to how it is made.

Cheers
Zelko

correct, if your bios perfect untill you clear approximately 17000 psi bio is just like normal diesel but it has a better suspension quality, which is why it cleans your fuel system so well. It is also between 5-15% less bang for your buck and thats when its perfect. IF you dont get it perfect and you leave some methanol or ethanol in suspension it has the potential to be up to 30% more powerful than normal diesel BUT that will be at the cost of your fuel system and engine life.

You might get away with leaving enough (m)ethanol to get a little boost (say 5-10%) in an older engine thats tired and low on compression but in a micky mouse engine you will induce diesel knock. Diesel knock is a really cool thing if you happen to like inverted piston tops and dont happen to like your lower half piston shells. Personally I like my bearings with the white metal attached to the backing plate and not impregnated into the crank and I think that the engineers happened to do a good job on the piston crowns so would rather leave them alone as well.


some figures that Ive roughtly gonkulated out on the injector specs for the 3 types of injectors...

7-800 psi. series diesel injectors... big tolerances run it on sump oil thats been delivered from the sump of a haul pack after being filtered through a tray load of mixed gravel.

9-15000 psi TDI injectors These diesels feature injectors that do PRIME (PRe Injection MEtering) the initial shot is at about 8-11000 psi and the main body of injection which follows is between 9 and 15000 psi depending on how tweaked and worn your units are. The TDI is Land Rovers best engine for BIO diesel the injectors dont kill it and there is enough tolerance in the injector to deal with little imperfections caused by the fuel without getting siezed. if you only run bio crank on a little more advance on the injection timing (it will vary from engine to engine and even batch to batch) and you can more or less remove the power loss that bio can cause, this is because of what and how PRIME makes the combustion process better. Ask me later and I will go through it in detail and even draw up some so simple an ADGie could follow it.

14-21000 psi.. Td5 injectors and infact most true "common rail" or "unit" injectors. very very fine tolerances and very high pressures a loss of lubricity can cause injector needle/seat spotting this winds up eventually leading to a dribbly injector and then a leaking injector... lets look at that further in the worst case scenario wearing "whatever is the opposite colour to rose" colored glasses

you're running the engine at full noise full load at full throttle conditions and it gets hot and the injectors running at max pressure and delivery. A little bit of rubber seal gets into the injector and under the temp and pressure converts itself to carbon and deposits itself on the seat (just the bio itself can (assuming its not a perfect mix) do this but it takes longer if there isn't something to get it started) the injector then sticks open... your fuel pump operates the fuel rail that feeds the injectors at about 80psi(g) the pressure in the combustion chamber as the piston moves down to draw in a fresh air charge is and lets be generous 30psi(g) so you get at least 50psi(g) of fuel pressure to push the fuel into the combustion chamber past the injector thats now stuck open as the engine does its intake stroke which will be there when the cylinder starts its compression stroke....

what happens to a diesel engine that has fuel in the combustion chamber when the compression stroke gets near top dead center?

What happens to that engine if the injector then feeds fuel into the combustion chamber thats already doing what it was doing when the injector injected?

Imagine what would happen if more than one cylinder was doing that...

now imagine you own an automatic.................



If thats not bad enough what happens when potasium hydroxide comes in contact with various metals and some plastics that just happen to be in the fuel system?

same question but with sodium hydroxide?

Doesn't ethanol (and methanol) have a detrimental effect on plastics?

Aren't the td5's fuel lines made of plastic?


just curious...

so if i was to go up north (W.A.) or the kimberly for example i had say a naturally aspirated landy or say a turbo diesel landy or toyota and a td5 lined up next to each other, and a similar fault occurred that was beyond my capabilities.
Which vehicle would you suppose an old boy country mechanic would be able to cope with?
I guess the least technological of the bunch that has always been my concern, being left high and dry