Thread: BP vs Gull Biodiesel

why is it I get the feeling that this whole thread is going to be pointed in the direction of


"look how good my hiclone is..."

where's the link to the UK board where they did some back to back dyno tests and the results were within the accepted error of the dyno

This thread links to the UK tests http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...lone-test.html

I don't use Gull Bio-D in any of my cars as I think Gull are cheaky for selling their B20 blend at almost the exact same price as the other brands. Often more when you take into account the 4C per litre savings at Caltex and Coles Express (Shell). Also my D3 user manual said the new car warranty was void if bio-diesel was used.

The RAC website actually names Gull and says this:

The RAC advises members that use of Gull BIO-D could void their vehicle warranty. If you want to use Gull BIO-D, and are concerned about your warranty, check with your vehicle manufacturer whether they approve its use.

The WA Government Fuelwatch web site says this:

Before using biodiesel products, motorists are advised to contact their vehicle manufacturer to determine if biodiesel is suitable for use in their vehicle. Motorists with older vehicles (models prior to 1996) should be aware that there have been reports of minor problems with rubber or synthetic parts in the fuel lines and pump seals as the result of biodiesel use. However, these parts can be replaced with more modern components. Additionally, all motorists using biodiesel should be aware that fuel filters should be regularly checked during maintenance servicing .

Jon

Originally Posted by lenleggo

Hi,

Sorry am not prepared to pull the Hyclone out, the test drive of my mates TDi was the test I did to compare power. He was stunned at how much faster mine was when we swapped cars, and we did do the drag from the lights after we had finished jaw boning and mine was literally streets ahead.

I understand thats fairly empirical and there are lots of other variables like quality of the motors, tuning, valve settings & of course fuel, but the result was unambiguous.

Cheers

I disagree; I think your comparison between two different cars is not only ambiguous but rather pointless.

The only valid comparison would be to take the Hiclone out and see what different it makes using 2 or 3 test drivers on the same track testing times and fuel consumption over multiple passes.

At the moment all we know is that your car is faster than your mate's one!

dont waste your time buying bio from servo's, they quality of their basic diesel is amazing, due to the condition of the tank its stored in as well as the basic product.
when bio cleans your fuel lines, injectors, tank etc you are putting crud back in (possibly not to the same standard) so i would suggest it's pointless adding servo's version of bio to your tank at all !
if you want real bio i can put you onto a supplier of b100 in perth and there are various suppliers of b100 around Australia.
And in my experience you should expect to get better economy depending on the wear on your vehicle and a reduction in smoke when the system has cleaned itself.
filter change requirement usually occurs after 5000k

To make something clear, the "Gull Biodiesel" which is being discussed is "up to 20%" BD. SO anywhere between B0 and B20.

I have run it a few times (when it is the cheapest option SOR), and noticed no difference in power or economy, and no blocked filters.

I run my Freelander on B100 (tallow-based) from The Biodiesel Station in Marrickville (Sydney) and found that it gives me worse economy by about 10% when compared to the same driving style and conditions to BP diesel (or any other mineral diesel fuel).

There seems to be no adverse effects and the engine, it seems to run smoother on bio, exhausts smell like burnt snags on the barbie but does not give me the same milage.

Haven't investigated the effects on economy on VolumePlus' B60.