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6th April 2008, 05:25 PM
#21
I am interested to know if you can make bio diesel without the chemical method and by filtration only, is there any info available please?
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6th April 2008, 10:57 PM
#22
Hi Philco,
What you are probably looking for then is the WVO or SVO method although some still use a chemically binded product.
Check out Biodiesel & SVO Forums - Powered by eve community
It should answer most if not all your questions.
Cheers, Pete'
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8th April 2008, 03:34 PM
#23
Very interesting - just found this.
Something to watch with ethanol (so I have been told by refinery chemists), is that it will dissolve water into oil, but when you get to saturation levels - ALL the water will come out of solution. This could be a worry if you have water that comes out of solution anywhere in the system.
Might be worth testing by adding water to a sample.
As for the filters - micron ratings are a bit of a misnomer - filters are NOT sieves, so the micron rating of a filter is USUALLY the size at which it will remove 50% of particles. So a 25 micron filter could still let 5% or so of 50 micron particles through.
Most diesel fuel filters are 5-15 micron rated. Engine oil filters more like 25-50 micron.
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8th April 2008, 06:37 PM
#24
the real reason I bought a 4BD1 
DIY biodiesel!
haven't done it yet, but I know you can buy 0.2 micron water filters pretty simply from any decent produce store (used for virus removal from tank water). if you go down this road, I would advise that a pre filter should be used in front of the fine filter....
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13th April 2008, 03:44 PM
#25
Hi Ben,
Thanx for the heads up on the filters.
I understand that the lower the number the better but I am still waiting for someone (anyone!) to tell me what a "sock" filter is and what they look like since everyone seems to refer to them all the time. See my earlier post on what happened when I asked for one
Saturation levels for water dropping out of Ethanol are quite high. I can't imagine where the water would get into the BD after it is poured into the tank unless there was some major engine cooling problem and if that happened I think you would have more to worry about than water in the fuel!
My ethanol is 99.7%+ pure (lab tested) so an awful amount of water would need to get in. I make sure the oil is water free before blending with the Eth' and then it goes straight into storage before being pumped into the tank.
EchiDna, I wonder whether oil will pass through a .2 filter. Even if as Ben says that filters are a 50% average, then even at .4/.5, it might take quite a while for the oil to pass through. A test would be worthwhile though so at least we know. I'll pick up one this week and let you know the results.
Philco, Did the info' help out? Oh and BTW, love the avatar!
Cheers, Pete'
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17th April 2008, 09:21 PM
#26
Now the worst part is that I still got a heap of other vehicles to get through before I can put it in my TD5!
But still, so far so good with genny, forklift and currently mates truck. (isuzu I think from memory)

Pete'
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17th April 2008, 10:09 PM
#27
From what I have been reading on using recycled oil in Diesos is that there are probs with smoke and viscosity issues, I came across a company that makes a simple heat exchanger you connect into your heater pipes and it appaerently thins the oil and eliminates smoke and other issues, I have seen diesels run on coconut oil but the extraction process is difficult and expensive, I am seriously considering fitting a Tojo 4 cyl dieso into my old Series 1 and fitting a heat exchanger and some decent filters and give the oil a go, I can get plenty oil for nix just need to strain it, Ihave to retain the original fuel tank and use this for diesel fuel as I think its best to start on diesel and when the operating temp is normal switch to the cooking oil, specially in winter time here when solidification could be an issue, I have heard you can also fit an element into the tank to handle this problem, I think of it this way Petrol will never be under a dollar again it will only go up, LPG has to remain half the price of fuel so its creeping up too, so I can still have the looks and style of the old Series but with modern diesel technology and costing bugger all to run, untill later when someone cons onto it and they ban used cooking oil from being sold or used, always someone who is the party pooper.
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11th June 2008, 07:36 PM
#28
Hi All,
Well we are getting close! Everything that we have tried the fuel in is still working, filters replaced for new, periodically checked, etc, etc.
It is now soon time to try our ethanol BD in my 2001 TD5.
Before I do this though I just wanted to check with anyone that might know, whether there are any hoses/seals that need to be replaced prior to BD use. I know with earlier models that some hoses which were rubber had to be swapped out with a different type of hose (type?), but not so sure with later model LR's.
Cheers, Pete'
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19th June 2008, 08:43 PM
#29
Pete,
Not sure if I'll get in trouble for posting a link but if you go to telepoint.biz the guy there has various "sock" filters and other bits and bobs. I've just placed an order so if you want to wait a few days I'll be able to tell you more about them.
Cheers,
Andy
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27th June 2008, 05:29 PM
#30
well.. its like this..
from what I understand, currently the answer is "no - for home brewers"..
the methanol is the material that reacts with the veggie oil to strip the glycerine out... my understanding is its the adding of KOH, or NaOH, is the catalyst to speed up the reaction.
There have been demonstrations of using high voltage such as 5,000 V DC (current limited, of course) .. to strip the remainder of glycerine. makes fascinating watching... Electrostatic separation of glycerol from biodiesel
hope that helps.
biodiesel bob...
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