Camera purchase advice requested

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I have a manual. Can't find the "press to fire and press to close" bit in it. I'll give it a go. I love doing timed exposures at night.
Thanks for the tip James.

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I've sent you up the garden path...

You need to operate it from the LENS, near the front. - A little lever that has a set-screw in it (to prevent inadverdant use) which 'exposes' a T or A .

Basically, undo the screw to free the lever, Cock the shutter, move lever so as to expose the "T".

Open shutter with the shutter release (as normal) - will stay open......

To close the shutter, slide the lever across to its normal ( shows "A" ) position.

The above taken from that link I posted. Section 6 Page 14. :-))

Many years ago I owned a Bronica S2A.. Fantastic beast, not so great for daylight flash-synch... 1/40 sec. :eek: Mirror and shutter blinds etc were so heavy that you could really feel it jump in your hands.

Sounds like you've got Nice Toy... :p - I'd be inclined to drop a note to the JB management, telling them how happy you are with the service.....:twisted:

James

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Originally Posted by Sleepy

Don't forget.....:rulez:

It didn't happen without pictures!
(Good luck getting a photo of your camera! :lol2:)

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There ya go Sleeps.
Taken with the old camera.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1325150426

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Originally Posted by superquag

I've sent you up the garden path...

You need to operate it from the LENS, near the front. - A little lever that has a set-screw in it (to prevent inadverdant use) which 'exposes' a T or A .

Basically, undo the screw to free the lever, Cock the shutter, move lever so as to expose the "T".

Open shutter with the shutter release (as normal) - will stay open......

To close the shutter, slide the lever across to its normal ( shows "A" ) position.

The above taken from that link I posted. Section 6 Page 14. :-))

Many years ago I owned a Bronica S2A.. Fantastic beast, not so great for daylight flash-synch... 1/40 sec. :eek: Mirror and shutter blinds etc were so heavy that you could really feel it jump in your hands.

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Yep. That's what I've been doing. I still don't like touching the camera though when I'm taking a photo.

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Originally Posted by superquag

Sounds like you've got Nice Toy... :p - I'd be inclined to drop a note to the JB management, telling them how happy you are with the service.....:twisted:

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No point. They're not interested. A couple of years ago They had eeepc's advertised for $316. I waltzed in to JB Highpoint West.
me: "I'll pay $300 for one of those PC's because that's how much they are elsewhere."
JB: "They're $316"
me: "I'll go and buy one elsewhere then."
JB: "We're the cheapest."
So I walked back to the car passing Teds Camera store.
me: "How much for the eeepc?"
Teds: "$298"
me: "I'll have it."
I then continued to the car and drove home.
Follow up email remains unanswered.

As I said before, when JB owned it, they would deal rather than let you out the door without a sale.
Don't get me wrong. I still shop at JB. Before christmas I spent over $300 on DVD's. They have a great range of DVD's and CD's including some interesting ones.

Mick, that foto is a typical example why a good tripod is needed :D

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Originally Posted by Chucaro

Mick, that foto is a typical example why a good tripod is needed :D

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Already got a tripod. Manfrotto. Had it for years. Bought it in the early to mid eighties. It is well travelled.
Sometimes it's not convenient to carry a tripod.

I went with the D7000 with the 18-105 as well. I'm glad I did as the extra length over my other choice of a 17-55 or so is well worth it. The lens is pretty sharp too. You should be happy with it.

I can't believe how low noise it is. I wanted to take some high noise pictures of decayed signs and had to go to 25,600 to get the effect I wanted.

I was at the zoo the other day and needed to use ISO 2000 to get a high shutter speed and I can't see the noise unless I look really closely. Spectacular!


Cheers, Steve

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Originally Posted by Chucaro

Stay away from kit lens, the are not good.

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Have been following this thread as I am contemplating a DSLR my self.
I have two questions.
What is meant by kit lens and what does VR stand for?

Dave.

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Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

Have been following this thread as I am contemplating a DSLR my self.
I have two questions.
What is meant by kit lens and what does VR stand for?

Dave.

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The kit lens is the lens that is sold with the camera as part of the kit. The default supplied lens.
VR is Vibration Reduction.

Kit lens is one which comes with the camera in a single box. They are sold as a single lens kit where you get one lens and a twin lens kit where you get two. Luckily I've never seen a twin lens kit where you get two lenses the same...

Kit lenses can be low end, but can also be quite good. For example, the Nikon D7000 is available with three different kit lenses which cost (lens only) $200, $550 and $900 respectively.

Whilst some people make disparaging comments about kit lenses, they can be very good. Particularly if you get the $900 lens.

VR is vibration reduction in Nikon speak or image stabilisation (IS) in Canon speak. It allows you to handhold the camera at slower shutter speeds than would otherwise be possible. It isn't perfect, but I use it quite a lot.

Cheers, Steve

Kit lens is one sold as a kit with a camera. Usually a kit lens is a low end lens that would not sell on it's own and is more or less thrown in with the camera as they are of little cost $100-$200 should cover these lenses.

VR is the acronym for the "Vibration Reduction" system that is used by Nikon. Canon uses a term "Image Stabilisation" with the acronym IS. Basically a system that allows for you to hand hold the camera/lens to take photos at one or two f stops worth of shutter speed lower than would normally be recommended. Usually a rule of thumb is used that you should use a shutter speed of one on the focal length of the lens in use i.e., for 300 mm lens you would use 1/300 sec shutter speed which may not be a speed available depending on the camera so you would use 1/500 on the conservative side or 1/250. With a 300 mm VR lens you could possibly use a 1/60 or 1/125 shetter speed. This would apply for a stationary subject and would overcome camera shake, if you have a fast moving subject that you want to freeze on your photo you will have to select a shutter speed suited to the speed the subject moves across the film plane in order to freeze regardless of VR or IR assistance.

I'll hand over to the professionals for more detail.