Mick, have a look this page: Nikon | Imaging Products | Digitutor | D7000
And this page as well:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glC5sgRBNUs]Guide to Nikon D7000 Movie Mode - YouTube[/ame]
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Mick, have a look this page: Nikon | Imaging Products | Digitutor | D7000
And this page as well:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glC5sgRBNUs]Guide to Nikon D7000 Movie Mode - YouTube[/ame]
THAT was one very sad Happy-Snappy ! - You've chosen well:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
Yashicas ?- 'NOT' Electro 35's by any chance? - We've got a pair of them, pity about the hassle of batteries....
It does'nt matter about having to touch the lens-barrel at the end of a TIME exposure, as the fraction-of-a-second camera shake is only a tiny % of the total time. Put your hand in front of the lens as you move the T lever to 'close'.;)
Auto ISO ? - Is'nt TECHNOLOGY wonderful ? - Just imagine being able to wish for - and receive - differant film speeds for every pic???
We had it back in the Olden Days, and it was called Push/pull-Processing. - Bit of a nuisance as the whole roll of film got the same treatment...
One of the advantages of the 5x4 GRAFLEX over the new-fangled 35mm cameras.....:p:p:p - :eek:
Rip Van James
I usually shoot the two CF cards in the D3s as RAW & JPEG/Video. Depending on what you are doing though it is handy to also have the overflow setting to give you two cards if you find yourself in a position where you can't change cards over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
The RAW & JPEG doesn't allow for the DR and WB bracketing, you have to shoot JPEG only for this to work as it's something that can be achieved post process on a RAW image. But I find it handy to have the JPEG images to quickly review if I need to.
Also set the RAW to 14 bit lossless compression as this saves on file size and doesn't loose vital information as the name implies. The compressed format does loose data and 14 bit is a significant step up from 12 bit.
This is a rather straight forward article to explain it better: Raw Conversion made easy by Thom Hogan
The D7000 can use DR with RAW only as well (not sure if you are saying it doesn't...). By DR I mean it copies the raw file onto both cards at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmdigital
If you install the Nikon software you can view raw files in explorer, just like they were jpegs. If you do this there is no need to ever shoot raw+jpeg. Raws are just as flexible for me.
My workflow is simple - I view everything in lightroom (so format is irrelevant) and I have set up two user exports. One is jpeg1K and the other is jpeg3k. So I right click on any image and the option is there to export at 1024 pixels or 3000 pixels in a lightly compressed jpeg.
Given that the jpegs from the camera are typically too large to email to people I would always be scaling them down. So the fact that I shoot raw adds no extra processing at all to me.
The only time I shoot jpeg is when I need the extra buffer size. The one feature where the D7000 is weak is the buffer size/speed when shooting multiple images in succession. The 6fps continuous doesn't help here either... Generally I shoot multiple images at Cl which I have set to 4 per sec.
Cheers, Steve
FX-D's as stated earlier in this thread. In the mid to late 80's I used to wander around Melbourne at night taking photo's of whatever I thought interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by superquag
Still uncomfortable about it though.Quote:
Originally Posted by superquag
By DR I mean Dynamic Range Bracketing. You can also shoot RAW + smaller size JPEG.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300+
As for small buffer size ... 9fps or 11fps and a larger buffer is no better than 6fps and a smaller buffer :( You always need more memory no matter what the device. I do the same if I really want high frame rate. I mostly shoot CL or when bracketing I go to CH as the shutter stops when the bracketing is done.
Put your Wizard (subscriber) HAT over the lens as you close it....Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh
Be Brave !
I'm a Wizard!! How did I get to be that.
Oh, I see now. Volumes of useless posts typed in darkened rooms.
Had more of a play this morning. This is where I spent last night.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1325418937
That is taken with the 300mm at 300mm. I would really like to get something like
AF-S NIKKOR
500mm f/4G ED VR
Powerful, lightweight super telephoto, ideal for nature and sports features Nikon’s VR II image stabilization and Nikon Nano Crystal Coat for exceptional performance.
Another pic at 300mm
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1325419702
I'd show you the photo's of the cars I took but they're of Mercs. Did catch a glimpse of a gunbuggy I think.
yep good choice - between the D7000 and the D300s you are comparing grapes with grapes I bought the D300s but would have been just as happy with the D7000 if it had come out when I bought the camera.
I think a great one lense does all is the nikon 18 - 200mm VRII.
I'm now saving my pennies for the nikon 70-200mm f2.8 VRII and the tonkina 11-16mm f2.8
will put up with my old nikon film lenses until then, then save again for one inbetween and manfrotto tripod (already have a mono pod and love it) and a SB900 flash and a cordless remote and a and a and a etc. Around about the time I have all the goodies the D800 / D4 will be out and I will dream about them.
much like I do with landys as a new one comes out :D
my only real comment is when you buy new lenses buy the very best you can and do a heap of research as even the not so good ones are expensive and the really good one bloody expensive but if you get it and it isn't right for you then you hae wasted considerable $$$
Hi Folks,
Hope U dont mind that I hijack this thread but I also have been toying with the idea of going DSLR for about the last 4 years, since my mate bought a (Canon) 400D to take on holidays. From what I can see, with my very limited knowledge, DSLR's are representing very good bang-4-buck at the moment (550D Twin Kit for under $1000!) but im still not convinced thats what I need.
Currently im rocking a WAAAAY old Fuji S5500
http://4.s.img-dpreview.com/files/ne...iew.jpg?v=1316 which is still in very good nick and performing flawlessly, but its getting outdated, its pretty limited, and I feel it deserves an update.
The universall-ness of a DSLR appeals to me, but the, having to lug around 20 lens's, doesnt. I like to shoot cars, and family mainly, and maybe toy around with some maco stuff for *****s and giggles, nothing long range, but as said, with a DSLR there is the option to lash out on a tele lens if I feel the need.
I figure if I can keep it to a similar size/compactness of my current camera, I iill be more willing to use it. I had been looking at Cannons, only because thats what Im familiar with, and they seem to feel nice to use/weighted well compared to the Nikons I have played with.
I had a browse t JBs the other day and was looking at the 550D Twin KIt which seems pretty good for under 1000, then I noticed the 600d has the flip flop screen which seems like a neat feature, even this is pretty good buying with the 18-55 IS and 55-250 IS lens's.
Also on the shelf they had the 600D with an 18-200 lens (around $1600), looks cool as its quite a fatty but it it as good as having the 2 smaller lens's?
$1600 is kinda sretching my budget a little, but if its going to be the best for the $$$ then that can be accomodated.
I figure down the track ill probly invest in a fixed 50mm as ive been told they are good to have, and something like a 10-20 or something nice and wide.
Unless there is something that can be suggested in the Point/Shoot range that will do what I want I figure im going to have to go DSLR, the question is, what do I put my $$$ into?!?