Thread: What works and what doesn't

I thought it may be a good time to list my successes and failures in camping stuff seeing I have just crossed the Plenty, Tanami, Gibb river , and kalumburu Roads, probably the camping uultimate test.
.
Since my Versalite died I have tried to develop cheap effective lights with limited success.
The most succesful has been an Arlec 12v worklight at $49 plus an in line switch. BUT it does not work down to as low a voltage as a Versalite so when the battery is low no light. However within its envelope it is just as bright as a Versalite at less than 1/2 cost.

I tried a 12V CFL from Bunnings in a canister.It broke first time it was dropped as the tube Juuust protruded. I have made LED reading lights from some track light MR16 sockets and a plastic clamp and these work well, except one LED bulb died from the corrugations.

Probably my most successful mod is the battery monitor made from a JAYCAR volt/temp gauge for about $30. It has soldiered on for about 10 years now with no probs.

My 1997 Campomatic has been perfect, well almost. the only problem I have had is that the kitchen "Southco" catches did not fully engage once and a lot of dust came in. It was a design fault and I had the catches lengthened in Alice Springs and since then no probs.

The old Rangie is brilliant. The biggest hassle is dust entry. Even with new tailgate catches lots of dust comes in when the rear door is opened. I cause much hilarity and requests to do theirs when people see me with the brush and dustbuster trying to reduce the dust entry when the tailgate is opened.

Another product that is great is the Unifilter snorkle socks. You have to modify the RR Glass snorkle to fit them, by adding some thickness to the top flange, which I did with aluminium beer cans. But the dust they caught was enormous, and the other side was pristine clean. Its a pain following people on still days or when traffic is heavy and the socks save lots of filter changes.

The Recaro seats I bought off Ebay a couple of years ago are worth their weight in gold. I can drive 7-8 hours with no discomfort and my wife who has a compressed lumbar nerve from "slipped" disc agrees they are the best mod I have done.

The Engel has been perfect as has the "Absorbed Power" 90 AH AGM, which is now 5 years old and getting a little tired.

For drawers in the back, I have used a set of $39 plastic drawers which you can get from Reject Shop . I glued the frames with construction glue and have them zip tied to my dog guard. they have survived this trip and last year to darwin, strezlecki etc. So you do not have to pay $800 for drawers which weigh 80KG!!! I hold them closed with stick on velcro.

They are perfect in size for a Range Rover Classic, as they slip neatly into the back just clearing the headlining, and can be easily removed.

I have taken out the back seat and use Big W plastic boxes for clothes , grog, shoes, cold clothes and one for spares. These are held in place by nylon pull tight straps anchored to the seat belt points at the back and Whitworth Marine stainless loops riveted to the slope at the front. Three boxes fit perfectly between the wheel arches. I also use them in the camper under the bed. The catches are a bit weak so you have to be careful when closing them, that you close them fully then turn the catches.
Thats all I can think of now. Experience can help sometimes.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by PhilipA

The final one applies only to RRC. The main reason the rear top tailgate gets really hard to open is that dust gets into the centre button assembly.

After a couple of tries , I got a bit of tube large enough to cover the elipse shaped opening and then sealed it with duct tape. it has been there a couple of weeks now and stopped the stiff tailgate latch problem. The tube has become more pliable with use.
Regards Philip A

I do something similar whenever I venture onto Stockton Beach. I've never had a problem with regular dust though, just sand.