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30th April 2010, 11:43 AM
#11
G`day
The Thermotime is the brown one bigger in size and larger dia thread and closest to the front or fan .
The CTS is the small one to the back and right of the thermotime . ( being right had drive )
As i`d think suggested , check the aircleaner and pipe work for air flow ( rags ) fuel reg , (tt ) thermotime switch , cts , aiflow meter and ecu .
The link below goes to a UK Morgan plus 8 site , i think it has the tests you need .
Just be sure your looking at flapper infomation and know that there are differences between UK and AU systems but the basic TT CTS ETC tests are the same , either or both the ECU and airflow meter are a bit different .
If you have trouble with the tests yell out and i`d suggest you set what ever changed back if it wasn`t smoking beforehand.
cheers
The GoMoG Morgan Sports Car Owners Group Plus 8 Page
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30th April 2010, 02:59 PM
#12
Thanks alot for all the help guys, I have a much better idea of what I'm looking for now and will get back on this today.
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1st May 2010, 09:37 AM
#13
Ok so after alot of looking around the engine bay and checking things out I found a pipe at the back of the manifold just under the throttle that was disconnected, it was sucking in unmetered air. Reconnected it and no change.
It was starting to get dark so I was wrapping stuff up and a mate came to have a quick look, he put his hand over the hole for the air intake filter and blocked it off which stalled the engine. I turned off the ignition and left it for the night
Now this morning it will just start and will idle very very low, doesn't register on the gauge and the battery light is on. I can rev it up while it's not in gear but it's very rough and it won't drive. Not blowing smoke anymore so I'm thinking it might be running lean now? Tried disconnecting the hose I put back on last night and that didn't help and if I unplug the AFM the engine dies almost straight away.
Any ideas? I'm assuming it's running lean now but I haven't changed anything other than that hose.
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1st May 2010, 01:57 PM
#14
The plugs are probably fouled now.
The hose should be the crankcase ventilation. Trace it back to its source and see where it goes. If to a grey thing on the RH rocker cover that is what it is. If not tell us where it ends up.
Regards Philip A
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1st May 2010, 02:14 PM
#15
The hose ends up in the flame trap or whatever you want to call it so I guess it is venting. Got the car running back to the same rich state by replacing a hose I must of split while fiddling. Ordered a replacement CTS so hopefully that will do the trick.
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2nd May 2010, 07:01 PM
#16
Ok so now without changing anything else it won't run. Sounds like the timing is really out or it's running on 5. I'll pull the plugs tomorrow and check those.
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6th May 2010, 02:53 PM
#17
So I had a mechanic come and look and he said new leads cap and rotor. Put all those in and now it will better but still seems to be rich and won't rev over 3000 rpm. Any ideas?
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6th May 2010, 04:28 PM
#18
OK yours should be the flapper style AFM. Pry off the plastic cover, then manually vary the position of the wiper as the engine operates. As the air flow increases the flapper moves varying the resistor track. If you hold back the wiper and it runs better then you can see that it is indeed running rich. You can vary the position of the wiper relative to the flapper, there is a small philips screw holding it in place. Also you can vary the spring tension against the airflow. Document your changes so you can return to standard. I have succesfully tuned a RRC with this method when I did a major fix to the EFI.
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6th May 2010, 05:23 PM
#19
Ok, thanks for that I'll give it a try tomorrow. I had read about doing this before but wasn't too sure since I don't remember when I read it and didn't want to break something. I'll report back any results or changes to help anyone else in the same situation.
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6th May 2010, 06:47 PM
#20
BUT have you checked/changed the temp sensor and checked the cold start timer and the cold start injector?????
Do that before starting to alter settings in things, as IMHO unless some mechanic who knows nothing has been fiddling it is unlikely to have fallen so far out of adjustment to cause extreme running problems.
How did the problem start? suddenly? Were you working on anything when the problem started? It's often best to think back if you have been fiddling with anything as often the problem is in that area.
It may sound harsh but going on your questions it may be better to take the car to an injection specialist as it is much better to diagnose a car that is at least running than one that will not start, which could happen if you maladjust something.
PS there is a complete diagnostic for the flapper system in the manual with about 20 or so steps. You are perhaps at the point where you should undertake the full checklist although it is a bit tedious.
Regards Philip A
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