Dizzy rotor button replacement Issue?

**MacMan** · 2nd August 2010, 10:22 AM

Originally Posted by pibby

i would go with what bee utey is saying. my dizzy would do the same thing unless i held the shaft down with a screwdriver whilst lifting the rotor off. i was trying different springs in the dizzy so got quite efficient at disassembling/assembling in situ. for your first time disassembling i would recommend pulling the dizzy out. it will take less than a minute to pull out. there is no need to rotate the motor, but you must mark/note where the rotor is pointing with the dizzy in then as you pull it out it rotates through some degrees (30?) which will be the starting point for when you feed it back in. if you are not comfortable with that then by all means rotate till motor is at TDC. if your start point when feeding the dizzy back in is off it is very easily picked up by the rotor being a noticeable distance out once the dizzy is fully home (ie it is very easy to align the distributor back into the correct position). if you don't have circlip pliers for the circlip i found a very small flat head screwdriver was ideal.

up to you whether you get it permanently fixed or reinstall being careful not to make it happen again.

HTH.

The hazard with just marking it and removing it is that the rotor no longer indexes to the correct plug now that the top half of the dizzy shaft has lifted and unhooked the weights. When reassembled it should go back to the pointing to the right plug, but I think it's easier to get the milk crate out and stand on that to do it in situ - that way you know for sure when you have it back together correctly because it will point where it was indexed before the problem started.

**bee utey** · 2nd August 2010, 10:24 AM

Originally Posted by Roving Rangie

So the attached pic is the nylon ring your referring to?

Does it look broken or ok to use again? Mind you it looks like it has seen better days. Might be worth while getting a new one anyway.

After I take off the circlip what do I remove next? The three outside screws?

Sorry, never done this before and don't want to destroy anything..... further.

Remove circlip, remove thin washer and rubber 'o' ring under circlip, remove star rotor, remove 3 screws holding plate with pickup, can't remember if the vac advance has to come off.

Roving Rangie · 8th August 2010, 07:02 AM

Well I finally got time to work on the dizzy yesterday. Apart from the circlip (pain in the backside) it was fairly straight forward and went back together nicely.

The rotor arm was set back to were it was before I disturbed it (pointing to plug 8) and the motor had not been rotated at all but when starting for the first time the idle is now as rough as guts.

If this normal and now just a matter of getting the timing back to normal using a timing light? This will be another first.

FYI, before starting up for the first time I put in new spark plugs and leads.

Thanks for the help all.

**UncleHo** · 8th August 2010, 10:33 AM

Don't forget, to adjust timing do it with Vacc advance disconnected, then reconnect when set

**PLR** · 8th August 2010, 03:43 PM

G`day ,

if you didn`t you may like to set the air gap , if you did the gap won`t be the problem .

Cheers

**bee utey** · 8th August 2010, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by PLR

G`day ,

if you didn`t you may like to set the air gap , if you did the gap won`t be the problem .

Cheers

Agree. Have another look at the pic I linked earlier, you will see there the star rotor lines up with the pick-up. Make sure this gap is not much bigger than .005 inch and then rotate the engine by spanner to check for interference before starting the engine.

Roving Rangie · 12th August 2010, 01:41 PM

Have now set the air gap (0.305mm) in the dizzy and have rotated the dizzy to get the idle up to an acceptable idle.

It currently sits close to the end of the retard position and could do with a further slight turn but the advance vac hose just touches the water pump so it can not move any further.

Any Ideas?

**PhilipA** · 12th August 2010, 02:21 PM

What is the timing? Do you have a timing light?
You can always just remove the dizzy and turn the shaft a cog or two to get extra timing. You have to turn the oil pump slot equally.
Regards Philip A

Roving Rangie · 12th August 2010, 02:47 PM

Timing is at the 1/2 after mark. Yes, I hav a timing light.

Just took it for a drive and it won't go above 2000rpm, limited power and misses slightly under load. Won't really rev??

**PhilipA** · 12th August 2010, 03:42 PM

Is that 12degrees ATDC?????
No wonder it will not go.
You will have to reposition the dizzy so you can get more advance and set the timing at 6-10 Degrees BTDC.
Regards Philip A

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