Thread: CV joints

Done this not so long ago on a Defender.

CV comes as a unit. While you are in there you should probably check the swivel pin bearings and swivel seal because you are there. Wheel bearings too, for same reason.

Lots of good threads on here describing how to set swivel pre-load.

Swivel bearing problems usually show by high speed steering shimmy that isn't fixed with wheel balance, toe-in, tyre rotation, steering damper replacement, etc.

I changed both on a 93 classic 18 months ago. No real dramas getting the old cvj`s out but removing them from the axle shaft was a real PITA. I ended up taking an angle grinder to the old cv`s to cut them off as no way would they be tapped off as expected. Needed to take real care not to damage the spline. The ABS type CVJs can be had from an Aussie seller on ebay for A$75ish.
You should take a look at the Viscous coupling to make sure its not seized, This was the cause of the failure of the CVJ`s on mine.

Originally Posted by wayneg

I changed both on a 93 classic 18 months ago. No real dramas getting the old cvj`s out but removing them from the axle shaft was a real PITA. I ended up taking an angle grinder to the old cv`s to cut them off as no way would they be tapped off as expected. Needed to take real care not to damage the spline. The ABS type CVJs can be had from an Aussie seller on ebay for A$75ish.
You should take a look at the Viscous coupling to make sure its not seized, This was the cause of the failure of the CVJ`s on mine.

I put an old mattock head over the CV and smote the crap out of it.

Hi again Richard!
Before you take it to bits check it has lube in it.

Undo the drain plug at the bottom of the hub. If oil comes out, or grease oozes out, yes it's probably knackered. If nothing comes it's dry and at this stage very possibly saveable. Get down to your local landrover guy and buy a pack of "one shot" grease and squirt into the filler hole.

Hopefully that'll fix it. If not can tell you how to replace but suggest you grab a copy of the workshop manual on CD from the shop - well worth it!!!

Here are some pics of mine-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...explosion.html

I've been told that once a CV joint starts clicking it's on the way out. It was several months of ticking clicking before it went boom.

Originally Posted by wayneg

You should take a look at the Viscous coupling to make sure its not seized, This was the cause of the failure of the CVJ`s on mine.

What is the proceedure to test the Viscous coupling?

Also I seem to have some conflicting ideas in my head about which CV I need. I know it is an ABS type but how do I know if it is a 10 spline or a 24 spline without taking it apart. The Paddock spares website list both of them for a 93...

Thanks in advance!

Richard.

Swap the CVs side-side and they should stop clicking and last a while longer.

Originally Posted by Richard93Vogue

What is the proceedure to test the Viscous coupling?

Also I seem to have some conflicting ideas in my head about which CV I need. I know it is an ABS type but how do I know if it is a 10 spline or a 24 spline without taking it apart. The Paddock spares website list both of them for a 93...

Thanks in advance!

Richard.

To test the Viscous coupling. Handbrake on,Jack up one side of car at front and you should be able to turn the wheel very slowly with quite a bit of effort. If you cant move the wheel lift the front of the car both sides and get a long bar onto the yolk of the front prop and try to move it, again very slowly with quite a bit of force. If it dont move its Knackered
I think the 10 / 24 spline refers to the diff end of the axle shaft not the CVJ end
This is exactly what I bought, The seller always has them.
Landrover,Range Rover With ABS 4WD CV Joint - eBay CV Joints, Transmission, Car, Truck Parts, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 30-Sep-10 19:43:47 AEST)