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Thread: fumy exhuast smell

  1. #11
    spook Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by HangOver View Post
    I'd go with the running rich, have a look at the end of you exhaust pipe when cold is it coated with sooty deposits?
    I will check tomorrow morning i think that's what is up with her i have to look into how to run her leaner not sure how to yet just another job for me thanks luke.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Maitland
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    Mine does the same...

    Hi Luke,

    I would be very interested to know what you find, my 93 is doing the exact same thing. Doesn't blow smoke at all but always smells fumey. Driving round town with the window down is impossible, I just get high on petrol....not good!!!

    Cheers,
    Richard.

  3. #13
    mike 90 RR Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard93Vogue View Post
    Driving round town with the window down is impossible, I just get high on petrol
    That will be a case of your tail gate seals failing
    When you drop your window down, it causes a vacuum inside the cabin and it will pull the air through the seals of the tail gate ... which is exactly where you exhaust system is pumping out the carbon monoxide

    Fix your tail gate seals ...


    Cheers
    Mike

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Gold Coast QLD
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    Quote Originally Posted by spook View Post
    I will check tomorrow morning i think that's what is up with her i have to look into how to run her leaner not sure how to yet just another job for me thanks luke.
    Apart from checking that the resistance of the temperature sensor changes during warm up according to specs and that it is well earthed by cleaning the threads... the other tricks shown to me when my 14CUX EFI system ran rich were:
    1. Cleaning the hotwire with circuitboard cleaner (spray can) as it gets coated in gunk and can't detect the airflow temp accurately.
    2. Check the resistance between the two outermost terminals of the multipin connector plugged into the side of the airflow meter. Apparently factory setting of 280 Ohms makes for too rich a mixture - I was recommended adjust it to 80 ohms - using an Allen key to turn the hex head adjuster screw facing the rear of the airflow meter. From memory clockwise increases resistance and enriches mixture so anticlockwise to lean mixture.

    When I did these operations it made a significant difference to smooth running and fuel consumption

  5. #15
    spook Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by aRRon View Post
    Apart from checking that the resistance of the temperature sensor changes during warm up according to specs and that it is well earthed by cleaning the threads... the other tricks shown to me when my 14CUX EFI system ran rich were:
    1. Cleaning the hotwire with circuitboard cleaner (spray can) as it gets coated in gunk and can't detect the airflow temp accurately.
    2. Check the resistance between the two outermost terminals of the multipin connector plugged into the side of the airflow meter. Apparently factory setting of 280 Ohms makes for too rich a mixture - I was recommended adjust it to 80 ohms - using an Allen key to turn the hex head adjuster screw facing the rear of the airflow meter. From memory clockwise increases resistance and enriches mixture so anticlockwise to lean mixture.

    When I did these operations it made a significant difference to smooth running and fuel consumption
    Cheers for that i think from memory i adjusted the air flow meter by using a multimeter and i think i set it to 1.5 volts which might be to rich thanks for your info i will look into it thanks Luke.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
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    470
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    Quote Originally Posted by aRRon View Post
    .....and that it (temp sensor) is well earthed by cleaning the threads...
    Is this right???? This 14CUX EFI coolant sensor shares a common earth with fuel temp, MAF and TPS sensors and is earthed to the ECU direct (not earthed via sensor body therefore requiring cleaning). Furthermore all coolant sensors (total of 3 in EFI RV8's with AC) should be fitted using a high temp thread sealer (which is not a circuit/earth friendly).

    As for setting CO idle trim (trim pot located on MAF) beg borrow or steal a exhaust gas analyser (or a couple of bucks to your friendly mechanic) to do so. Only use say 1.3 volts (non cat) as a stop gap as quite often the optimum AFR (say 2.5 / 3.0% CO) at idle has a much lower voltage than that. Co trimmer does little to correct fuel map/AFR at med/high throttle openings.

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