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Thread: Some questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Collinsvale Tasmania
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    Some questions

    As I've no longer got my range rover up for sale, I thought I might as well do it up a bit!

    First of all:

    Is it normal for the ZF 4-speed auto box to over-rev when you give your right foot a workout? this is in a 1986 EFI 3.5. The engine is also quite gutless in high range, yet in low range is an absolute power house. Will working the engine, transplanting a 3.9 or 4.6 or changing the diffs to Salsburys (4.7 diff ratio compared to 3.54) make a difference? What would engineering costs be, vaguely (tasmanian laws)

    Second:

    Where can I find the headlight relay? My highbeam lights don't turn on and all that happens is I lose all lights when I press the lever, yet the headlight assembly works fine when tested in another vehicle

    Third:

    Tyres...What's the largest I can 'safely' go without worrying about snapping a toothpick or breaking my diffs? 33 or 34x10.5R15? Because I keep getting stuck in ruts that I can't go over the top of on my current tyres...bloody crutrols and their 35+s!

    Fourth:

    Bent tie rod...will a bent tie rod make the steering wheel requiring more travel before the car/wheels start to turn, or should I be looking at my steering box as well?


    More information: The vehicle is lifted 4.5 inches between body and suspension, and is currently riding on 31x10.5R15 Silverstone X-tremes


    Cheers,
    Nick.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Godwin Beach Qld
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    G'day Guillocuda

    1st problem

    I would recommend that you get the ZF serviced, change oil/filter, and bands tightened.


    2nd problem

    First of all the headlights DON'T have a relay, that is the problem
    but it is easy enough to fit one, I had to fit one on my 85 model I used a New-Era twin fused unit,they are not that dear,under $50 that will take the main power (amps) that runs the lights and all the switch does is change the relay coils,that is change the beams,the switch is /has probably melted internally,amperage draw =heat=melted plastic switch so you will possibly have to replace that I would suggest a new one, or if you can get a KNOWN good one from a wreck



    1st problem second part

    The acceleration problem may be from a dead Vacc advance,anoth common problem,take the vacc tube off the injector intake and suck through it, if there is no resistance then you vaccie is sick, you can get an exchange unit from advance diaphragm options in Qld www.advancediaphragmoptions.com or you can buy a new one not cheap.also after fitting a new vacc advance reset your timing to specifications

    3rd problem

    As for tyres, it depends if you are will to hack the body (radious the mudguards ) to fit the larger sizes in remember a modified bodied vehicle might only be saleable to a limited clientelle

    4th problem

    Any bent steering arm will cause poor steering and vagueness, but I would look first at the pittman arm (drop arm from steering box) ball joint, as they wear, I am at the moment replaceing mine (221,000 klm's) they come in kit form about $50, plus fitting so you should get out of it for around $200, mine is booked infor next monday at BOR.



    cheers

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Collinsvale Tasmania
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    G'day UncleHo

    I bought my vehicle off of Timbocruiser with most of the mods with it.

    Here's a picture showing how much clearance I have between the guards & tyres.



    For your answers:
    I'll give the adding a relay a go, but I'm absolutely hopeless with car electrics

    Where can I find the vacuum advance, and one of my mates reckons that the torque converter probably needs replacing in the transmission as well?

    Will give the pittman arm a once-over, but another of my mates reckons that the steering box definitely has a problem in it...I'm just sick of having to spin the wheel almost a third of a rotation to get the car to respond. Make's it exciting on a straight windy bridge!!!.


    My range rover has 241,000kms.


    EDIT: Can anyone also tell me the exact size/diameter bolt I need to put my rear bar back on? I didn't get them when I bought the vehicle, so it's been running around with a 'naked' bum for the past 7 months. :S


    Cheers.
    Nick.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Collinsvale Tasmania
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    Checked the vacuum advance: Seems fine..

    I drove up to my uncle's on top of Collin's Cap, stomped the accelerator coming up a steep bend and it dropped into 2nd gear and accelerated up the hill....then it shifted into 3rd and I started losing revs and speed---Could that be attributed to the transmission as well?

    Cheers,
    Nick.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Avoca Beach
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    then it shifted into 3rd and I started losing revs and speed---Could that be attributed to the transmission as well?
    No the tired old 3.5 engine pushing 2 tonnes.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Another reason for me to try and get ahold of a 4.6 then,


    Cheers,
    Nick

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    Collinsvale Tasmania
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    After some testing..

    It doesn't look like it's the pitman arm for the steering...and the tie rod doesn't seem to be the problem, so I guess that narrows it down to the steering box? how much would be the average to pay for it to be fixed or a new one?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Avoca Beach
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    First try to adjust it.
    See the big bolt with locknut on top?
    Undo the locknut and turn the bolt with an allen key in little bits , say 1/8 turn, while swinging the steering column side to side. Don't over adjust and when you are finished put the front axle on stands and check that there are no hard spots in turning lock to lock with engine off.

    Oh also get a mate to turn the steering wheel side to side and check that some of the slop is not in the steering column unis , tightness of splines top and bottom or the rubber coupling.
    Could save you a LOT of money if you find a compromise you can live with.
    Regards Philip A

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