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Thread: Fuel Pump issue

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Your one is too old for an access plate, so cut your own through the floor. Remove the pump assembly and it is then clear as to how to replace the pump. The VN commy one is identical in flow and pressure so that is all we use, suits ALL 3.5, 3.9, even 4.6's (Not in P38's though, talking about fitted to RR's and D1's etc. Also These pumps are not suitable for Thor engines, D2 and late P38 for ex.)

    Now get to it with the nibbler and get cracking for the weekend trip!

    JC
    Nah....Going to take the time to finish off my flat instead, and start on a new center console, roof console and rear shelves--all made out of timber.
    Will see what the average cost for a good second hand VN bombadore fuel pump is on monday---Jagspare's is offering me a 3.5 rangey pump for $472!!!!

    Think I'll just drop the tank--theres not that much fuel in it.

    Thanks for the help JC.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guillocuda View Post
    Nah....Going to take the time to finish off my flat instead, and start on a new center console, roof console and rear shelves--all made out of timber.
    Will see what the average cost for a good second hand VN bombadore fuel pump is on monday---Jagspare's is offering me a 3.5 rangey pump for $472!!!!

    Think I'll just drop the tank--theres not that much fuel in it.

    Thanks for the help JC.
    new vn pump is around $100, if you get it from bursons, sparco etc. don't take out the tank, it is far easier to cut a hole and pop rivet a cover over it aftewards.

    you will remember that, while you are bench pressing a fuel tank that it dropppping mud, rust, sand etc in your eyes

    jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    new vn pump is around $100, if you get it from bursons, sparco etc. don't take out the tank, it is far easier to cut a hole and pop rivet a cover over it aftewards.

    you will remember that, while you are bench pressing a fuel tank that it dropppping mud, rust, sand etc in your eyes

    jc
    Didn't think of that---And just remembered that my rangey is lifted 5" inbetween body, springs and tyres---so bugger that!!

    Will measure up carefully---Don't want to make more than one cut!

    If they last 5 years (possibly longer for me, as mine isn't a daily), would it be worth putting a hinge on the plate?

    Cheers,
    Nick

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guillocuda View Post
    Didn't think of that---And just remembered that my rangey is lifted 5" inbetween body, springs and tyres---so bugger that!!

    Will measure up carefully---Don't want to make more than one cut!

    If they last 5 years (possibly longer for me, as mine isn't a daily), would it be worth putting a hinge on the plate?

    Cheers,
    Nick
    You can hinge it if you like, but just as easy to tech screw and a small amount of foam seal strip or silastic to stop dust and water getting in.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guillocuda View Post
    It's really odd, I had -just- passed the pub when it decided to die---Maybe it thought I needed a drink?
    A mate of mine once had a Series2 Jag that did the exact opposite when we used to leave the pub...
    Everytime we would go back in the morning and it would start and run fine. Happened at least 4 times in the 3 years he owned it.
    Contemplated whether Jags loved their owners more than the owner loved the Jag or if it just had some freaky ability to administer its own self preservation....

  6. #16
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    Update: Just had a session on the rangey...Hooked a wire from the battery to the fuel pump, and it worked...But still wouldn't start, had fuel air and spark. My mate who helped me reckons that it's a relay problem...but none of the relays are marked. All of the fuses are fine. Can I have some information on the location of which relay is which? Specifically the air conditioning and Fuel pump relays. Cheers, Nick.

  7. #17
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    I'm pretty sure the fuel pump relay is under the drivers seat. I think it's red but it's been a few years since I played with mine.
    Scott

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    I'm pretty sure the fuel pump relay is under the drivers seat. I think it's red but it's been a few years since I played with mine.
    Just look for the relay that has Purple/white wire from the terminal 87 on the relay, that is the fuel pump one. i think it is the red one, but not 100%

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #19
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    dont forget to check the FPR.

    occasionally these can stick open dropping the fuel pressure regardless of what the pump flows. Seen more than one pump returned because it was "cactus" from new and wouldn't raise pressure.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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