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Thread: Cruise Control ECU diagnosis & replacement$...

  1. #1
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    Cruise Control ECU diagnosis & replacement$...

    I've just followed the RAVE diagnostics for my 95 Classic Vogue, and in theory, the Cruise Control ECU is faulty...

    Anyway, the question is... "Is there anyone in Perth who can diagnose & repair the ECU"

    - 'Economically' that is... Or else its an aftermarket set-up going on...

    Cheers,

    James in Gosnells

    The EH, 95 Classic Vogue with WORKING EAS, mediocre Air con, dead C/Control and ....

  2. #2
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    James they are the same as a D1 and come up quite often on fleabay. i bought a spare off ebay from bundalene for around $40. I have a spare that you can try if worst comes too worst but i dont fully trust it.

    Pop the case off and have a look for dry joints, there was plenty on mine!

    When i followed the RAVE diag procdure it also told me it was a dud ecu, but in the end a new earth too the unit sorted it all out.

    Dont be afraid too swap out the relays too

  3. #3
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    Earth...

    Hmm, you can never have too much Earthing...

    My harness to earth was point 7 ohm, just less than the allowed 1 ohm. - I can see abit more 'earthing' to be done...

    James

  4. #4
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    I have a common accessory earth under the dash. I ran a 4mm earth directly from the battery too this point then any add on (ie 2 way, stereo,wide band 02 meter) goes too this point. It also makes a handy earth point for any suspect systems in the car

    Solved a multitude of stupid little electrical issues

    On more thing James,
    I recently replaced my set/acc button with a new genuine unit. This solved my no setting issues for about 1 week. I have since discovered that both contacts on the board the switch is mounted on was dry and loosing contact.

    I assume you tested the spider/clock spring?

  5. #5
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    The Good Earth...

    Good idea for the New Improved Earth-point...

    Yes, the rotary coupler a.k.a. clock-spring whtatsis and/or the "+" Set/Accel switch is not working. Checked the "-" or Resume button, and that circuit is still intact.

    The aftermarket + set/accel button is now spliced in and hangs over the naked steering column...

    Tested at the nearest plug & socket under the steering wheel, where I've also spliced in 3 female 1/4" sockets, so I can make up and plug in replacements for BOTH switches.
    - Or as handy test-points for the future. ;-)

    Interesting that the harness at this plug/socket, has what appears to be an afterthought extension, only 6" long inserted in circuit. It also carries a 3 amp fuse for the 'white' power lead that feeds both switches. Yes, the fuse is still intact and 'continuous'.

    ECU opened up and peered over with strong reading glasses... found only 2 potential dry joints. - They're NOT dry now.

    Will set up the State-of-The-Art earthing point, and give the Cruise control one more road-test before declaring the ECU to be Officially kaput.

    James in Gosnells.

  6. #6
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    I sent my ECU to Holland and received a replacement with a 12 month warranty. It is still working. It was about 2yrs ago now but it was about $110. They will send you a speadsheet to fill out to help them diagnose your problem. Search cruise controls.

  7. #7
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    re my previous post, try cruise.control.repair@gmail.com Took me a while to find it on the other computer.

  8. #8
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    ECU repair

    Thanks Blackbutt, the place you may have sent it is ECU Repair Centre, Cruise control repair service and remanufactured units, Tempomat Steuergerät revision but the price is now 75 to 140 Euros.. and a one year warranty.

    Have filled in the Repair request... wait and see...

    So far, I've not found anyone locally who wants to repair or even check the ECU. - Laughter was the usual response....

    James in Gosnells...

  9. #9
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    Egg on face Dept...

    Its finally fixed...

    Long and boring story, but the heart of it is the brake-pedal bleed valve/switch.

    I tested the switch unit whilst unmounted, due to the fact that the vacuum hose was so springy that it was pulling the unit out of the hole, these ones being a clip in design with no adjustment possible (?)

    Today, went through the whole proceedure again, this time with switch in its rightful place with more flexible vacuum hose, - and it came up faulty. - Depressing the brake pedal instead of holding and releasing the switch plunger.... My stuff-up.

    Moral of the story is to check everything IN PLACE only. Fixed by adding a tiny metal screw head to the end of the plunger to push it back the 1mm it needed to 'make' the circuit.

    So far it seems to be working fine ;-))

    James in Gosnells.

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