Reply With QuoteSounds about right based on other threads I have read on the subject. Mine is stuffed - it just about free wheels when cold or hot. I am about to order a new one, so once that is installed, I can let you know how a new one performs.
Cheers - Gav
1. Engine cold, put reference mark on fan at 12 o'clock vigorous spin by hand fan does only a quarter turn, if I start engine I can fairly easily stop fan with a rolled up newspaper.
2. Engine hot run at idle for 45 minutes to bring up to temperature and same test performed.
Hand spin of fan produced same result but stopping the fan with newspaper required quite a bit more effort.
I took Rangie for a run until needle was at about 75% on the gauge came back switched it off and could still spin fan as before.
Can anyone confirm this is a valid test?
Or better still if they have a known good viscous fan and could repeat the first 2 tests and let me know if the results differ, obviously don't risk taking temperature to 75% on the gauge.
Thanks in advance for any help/feed back.
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberSounds about right based on other threads I have read on the subject. Mine is stuffed - it just about free wheels when cold or hot. I am about to order a new one, so once that is installed, I can let you know how a new one performs.
Cheers - Gav
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
AT REST
A RRC temp gauge is not an accurate indicator of temperature. 3/4 gauge is well within the normal range, unspecified temp not actually too hot. Get an electronic temp gauge if you need to know what is happening exactly.
The viscous fan is designed to become stiffer at a radiator temp somewhat greater than standard running temp. Otherwise you would just have a fixed fan and even poorer economy.
With the a/c on, engine hot, I would pull over and hold the engine at higher revs (say 2000 rpm) and listen to/look at the fan. It should move quite a lot of air and not just freewheel. It is the temp of the air that has passed thru the rad that sets off the fan clutching action. It needs to be quite hot to fully engage.
Swaggie
SubscriberI don't think there is a definitive test but ist sound slike yours is had it.
My 92 RRC showa some distinctive behaviours which should give you a clue.
1 On cold start up the fan will roar for about 30 seconds as the fluid which has settled to the bottom redistributes.
2 When the radiator CORE gets hot the spring will expand and the fan will roar and you will feel the loss of power caused by the greater drag.
3 This happens with the temp gauge at just below centre depending on the radiator core temperature, eg towing the camper trailer in dry sand.
The temp gauge should NEVER get to 3/4 as this is 110C plus.
If I were you I would buy a new one if your car does not exhibit these symptoms. I am assuming if yours is a 93 that is interim and has V belts but a strange little cog belt for the alternator.
I do know about multi rib belt behaviour, but would think similar.
BTW , If you take it off you can usually see if it has been leaking out the seal by the dirt build up.
Regards Philip A
Regard sPhilip A
Wizard
SupporterG`day Bill ,
Ours is 94 and has a serpy belt but would expect they react the same .
On cold start it roars , drive down the road 4/5 hundred meters maybe a bit longer and the roar stops .
In general use it`s not noticed .
On a hot day when the AC is having trouble keeping up it will be heard if you stop and let it idle for 5 or so minutes but the gauge rises to just past half and only maybe the width of 2 needles above , gauge then returns to normal or half .
To get our gauge to 75% would be a task that i`m not sure it could do without much effort and certanly not on the open road how did you achieve it ?
peter
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