Thread: 83 Classic with a Chrysler V8, engine cooling ideas!

Originally Posted by tony66_au

You know that EF/EL fans draw 60 plus amps current don't you?


Tony

They don't.

I've got a stock RRC rad with genuine fake EL fans in the fake EL shroud in front of a 350. No probs keeping it cool enough in traffic in 40*.

My alt is only 55 amps and there is only a tiny drop on the voltmeter when both fans are roaring on such an occasion.

Can email pics to the OP if wanted. Sprover got em last week.

cheers, DL

Onto another track, Range Rover classic engine bays don't beathe well, despite additional fans etc it seems that the air dams within the bay. When you fit a bigger, particularly wider V8 the air flow is restricted further. It was/is a problem with the P76 4.4V8 and I would assume a wide block like the Chrysler donk.

Have you thought about opening up the sides of the cowl panel at the rear of the bonnet/just in front of the doors? A lot of conversions had the plastic air vent from the "D" pillar, but I always thought shark gill vents look better. The current RR sport and L322 have vents as standard.

Originally Posted by Nomad9

Hi Mike,
Can you email me a picture? Or put it on the site, I'm interested. thanks

Picture would be not much chop to you .... It's the little things that make the difference
That's why I'm happy to lift the bonnet on my RRC and show ya

Originally Posted by 350RRC

They don't.

I've got a stock RRC rad with genuine fake EL fans in the fake EL shroud in front of a 350. No probs keeping it cool enough in traffic in 40*.

My alt is only 55 amps and there is only a tiny drop on the voltmeter when both fans are roaring on such an occasion.

Can email pics to the OP if wanted. Sprover got em last week.

cheers, DL

The factory spec is 15 amps per fan so 30 amps in tandem as a brand new unit, However after 10 years plus (1995/6) out front of the engine they wear and draw significantly more.

I pinched a set from an EF wagon I had and initially ran 30 amp fuses on each fan but they would blow after a week or so and the distortion on the blade plastic tells me they were at their limit and fairly warm.

So i got a mate to check the current draw which ended up being a consistent 55amps with both fans on unregulated.

We found the specs on the fans which said 15 amps each (30 in total) and asked old mate the question why 55 amps.

His answer was simple, Old electric motors in harsh environments become less efficient over time and end up working much harder to do the same job.

So i tossed the fans and used American thermo fans in the EF shroud and ive never looked back.

I know the falcon fan setup is popular and its mainly due to the shroud setup, personally I use new fans.

Cheers,
Tony

BTW the unit I ended up using with great success was a Zirgo ZFB16S which can be reversed or front mounted and is rated at 3000 CFM, after testing the current draw was a touch under 9 amps and from memory it is a 10 blade fan.

My only issue after fitting was dialing in the cut in temp which I set to 85 degrees and even in peak hour stop start with the AC on flat out the temp never rose above half way and dropped quickly when the fan kicked in, the Zirgo was also fairly quiet for the amount of air it moved.

Tony

i've stuck a dc clamp meter on my old (new) EF ford fans, start up was over 25A each fan, running was around 12A. I'd be sticking a set of these in, easy to mod to make fit, i ran these in my old rangie with the chev v8 diesel with less clearance than yours (think it was around 90mm), a bit of trimming and they fit perfect.

Originally Posted by tony66_au

BTW the unit I ended up using with great success was a Zirgo ZFB16S which can be reversed or front mounted and is rated at 3000 CFM, after testing the current draw was a touch under 9 amps and from memory it is a 10 blade fan.

My only issue after fitting was dialing in the cut in temp which I set to 85 degrees and even in peak hour stop start with the AC on flat out the temp never rose above half way and dropped quickly when the fan kicked in, the Zirgo was also fairly quiet for the amount of air it moved.

Tony

Just my 2c, but any fan that claims to be reversible is going to be terrible.
The curvature of fan blades only works in one direction, take a look at factory electric fans and check this for yourself. The multiblade ones with little curvature that claim to work in either direction, work poorly in both directions.

If electric motors are drawing too many amps, pull them apart and hose them with electra-clean. It's simply debris inside shorting the coils. No need to replace them.
I took roughly 200 amps out of my starter motor draw by simply opening it up and cleaning it out. Used to draw 500, now around 300.

Factory fans off any vehicle will outperform the majority of the aftermarket fans I've seen.

Well mine are genuine fakes, done 70k k's, pull so much air that nearby babies have died and don't use anything like even 30 amps both on. Startup current with both at once maybe but mine aren't wired like that.

They have only been submerged twice.

Cheers, DL