83 Classic with a Chrysler V8, engine cooling ideas!

I think they mean that they can be mounted to push or pull air by the simple method.

You want it to push from behind the grille you mount it so, you want it to pull from the engine bay then you mount it so.

So basically the unit can be mounted from either side by simply unclipping the grille on the fan unit and moving it to the other side, No reverse polarity and no blade swap as all fans blow on one side and suck on the other.

Simple and effective.

Vern, maybe mine kept pulling hard? because your startup current was my run current.

A moot point on my Rangie because I have a fixed flexifan on it and it never overheats.

Hi Tony,
I've checked out the web site, thanks for the info. Great site and their communication has been great.

Hi there,
I'm in the process of fitting two stainless steel louvre vents from a boat in the exact same spot you mention. I did this on a previous 86 classic and was amazed at the hot air that used to come out. Also let me know when the valley gasket had gone and the oil was burning on the exhaust, good early warning system.......

G`day .

From what you say about it working ok with the helicopter fan , it sounds as if your main problem is the shroud .

In our 84/5 RR we have a 5 core/row and el/ef fans , they too move enough air to spin up the ac fans and they move alot of air under the car at rest .

No leaks ?

- has'nt the "ROVER" virus infected it yet ???
- at least your engine drinks like a Rover, though I daresay its got LOTS more power !

Seriously, where does the air go once its through the radiator?

Bear in mind that the Chrysler engine originally sat in a nice big Yankee engine - bay with lots of room for air to flow around it and out...

Personally, I reckon the engine-room is so poorly ventilated, that it may be a major factor in low-speed / parking running hot. - I've never had a car / 4WD that holds SO much heat under the bonnet, and for so long afterwards.

Maybe those fancy side vents in later Rangies are more than just good looks.

James from Gosnells

The EH, '95 Classic Vogue SE with *working* EAS !

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Er on every one I have ever seen you have to flip over the blades as well as reverse the wires.
Regards Philip A

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These are the type I'm talking about, you can't flip the blades on them as they're moulded into the hub. The hub is offset so flipping it would make it protrude two inches out the other way:


http://www.statracing.com/images/store/mishimoto2.jpg

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Originally Posted by tony66_au

I think they mean that they can be mounted to push or pull air by the simple method.

You want it to push from behind the grille you mount it so, you want it to pull from the engine bay then you mount it so.

So basically the unit can be mounted from either side by simply unclipping the grille on the fan unit and moving it to the other side, No reverse polarity and no blade swap as all fans blow on one side and suck on the other.

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I haven't seen a fan yet that you can do that on. The grille holds the motor, you can't swap it to the other side or the motor has no mount.

Here's another:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4444&viewitem=

Notice the description says to change the wiring to reverse the fan direction.
This type is junk and best avoided.

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Originally Posted by Nomad9

Hi Forumites,


Got a later radiator, four core radiator from TRS in SA, as helpful as ever, fitted it, all good except the custom made radiator shroud no longer fitted the later radiator, the fan that was fitted looked like something off a Chinook helicopter, it was huge, on idle it drew enough air to turn the two air con fans on the front of the radiator.

:confused::confused:

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The ultimate is the fixed or clutch fan but you need a shroud. If it turned the air con fans at idle this is plenty of air. Currently I have EL fans and they turn both my air con fans. I have done alot of trail and error trouble shooting with the chrysler engine. You cooling system should be keeping up.
Your water pump on the chrysler needs a flat 2-3mm disc welded to the impellar on your pump to reduce cavitation which improves water flow.
Under the thermostate, you insert a plate to direct water straight up into the thermostate housing instead of the water fighting each other coming out of the cylinder head both sides.
I have also inserted holes in the side of my bonnet. Use the rear pillar air vents out of a rangie classic.
Check timing etc,etc
Make sure you have an accurate temp gauge.
EL thermo fans are good. I use a 30A relay and have not had a problem for years.

Regards paul

Another area you might look at is the Thermostat, Tridon make a high flow series, I've fitted one of these to my 73, I havnt run it yet but should help.

Does anyone have a phot of the Falcon thermo fan set up. I'm in the process of fitting VY Commodore fans (I came by a brand new Comm rad and fan assy a few years back). The shroud sits a bit higher than the standard rad and I've made a new bracket to seal the gap and provide a bolting location. Width is very close. The bottom outlet hase been moved out to provide clearance for the hose.

I'll post a pic when I have a good one.

Cheers,

Phil

Hi Paul,
Thanks for all the useful info, especially in regard to the Chrysler engine. I've got some more checking to do obviously. I'm assuming the washer is to prevent cavitation at the eye of the impeller, do you have a pic showing what the finished job looks like?
I was out in my Rangie the other afternoon, around the 50 to 70 klm/hr range everything was fine, at idle things started to heat up and also over 100 klm/ hr things started to warm up. I suspect at the higher speeds the air was trying to go through the radiator faster than the fans would let it so the fans would actually be acting as a restriction, I assume anyway. Again thanks.

Hi Paul,
Did you use the EL shroud as well or just the fans? I'm trying to get around to look at a local guys set up this weekend, he (Mike) also used the EL fans and I'm sure he said he used the shroud as well.