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Thread: EAS to Coils

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    EAS to Coils

    The EAS on my 93 classic is sending me broke and has to go, enough is enough.

    The last time it broke I had the emergency kit fitted, so when the eas failed Yesterday I used my compressor to pump the bags up, when I started the car up it dumped the air.

    Anyway, my question is:

    Would standard RR coils be ok for the conversion?

    Cheers,
    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Gosnells
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    Thats because 'everyone' who fits an emergency kit forgets one simple little detail.... that the fault could be in the valve body / sensors, and not just pump failure.

    The only way to fit the kit is to add (four of them) a tap between the fill-valves and the valve body. This will isolate the bag from the rest of the world....

    Funny, just going through your posts..and I've got the same problems of fuel leak... from where the filler pipe enters the tank. Mine also stinks for a day or two if I over-fill the tank.

    I've used Q-Bond ($30 or so) to glue and fill the crack in situ. It really sticks to the plastic, so if you wanted to be sure-to be sure...you could cover it with epoxy glue (Araldite)

    Did you ever find the EAS air filter? - change or clean or re-make it ? This seems to be one of the 3 main reasons for pumps dying... leaks, blocked filter and lo temperature O rings when the amateur re-builds his pump...

    Shop around everywhere for the replacement springs, new prices can vary a lot.!

    Just to make your day.........

    - I was advised that the EAS shocks are differant to coil spring shocks, its in the balance of bound vs re-bound.

    I was going to go springs too...but foolishly decided to keep my 95 Vogue "Original" - should help the value for when I sell it... which will be sooner rather than later!

    Over the Rover James in Gosnells, WA

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Drouin East, Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by onemore View Post

    Anyway, my question is:

    Would standard RR coils be ok for the conversion?

    Cheers,
    Mike
    Yes, standard springs will be okay for the conversion. You need the plates and retainers for the coils also.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cardup WA
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    Just done it

    Just completed coil conversion easy done one day in me shed in no hurry
    a set of king springs 2 inch lift used the same rear shocks i brought a new set of front ultima to suit lift from autoline ,new front shock towers and plates and rear plates they were cheaper than i thought they would be $146.00 from rover craft shockies were 120 a pair and the springs were 280 pretty cheep works realy good and now reliable sits a little higher than in the raised position and a little softer witch is the way i wanted it has the bilstien shocks on rear that were on the air to harsh i think but you here all kinds of ideas probally put a set of ultima's on rear as well soon they pretty good value and if iwant i can change back to air in probally half a day as they come off and go on easy and i still use my compresser to inflate my tyres when needed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    Gosnells
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    TMA,

    So you've noticed the softer ride ? - reckon its worth it for the ride quality alone ?

    James in Gosnells

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Classic

    Hello again,
    In the last twelve months the following has been replaced on the vehicle:
    - new air con compressor.
    - new starter motor.
    - new sound system.
    - complete rebuild of the EAS, including new air bags.
    - hood lining replaced.
    - second hand fuel tank
    - ABS brake booster pump.
    - New battery

    When the EAS failed on Friday afternoon, as I was heading up to see my father who is very crook and had to hire a car to get there I decided enough is enough.

    I have vented thanks everyone, I am picking up a 2007 Mitsubishi diesel on
    Friday, in the meantime I am pondering the future of the vehicle.

    Once again thanks to everyone that replied to my post.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
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    Why not discuss you EAS issues with PaulP38a. He runs Hard Range Aust Hard Range Australia | Range Rover and other Land Rover Parts, http://hardrange.com [ABN 21 141 975 493] and has lots of good gear that may fix your issues.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Cardup WA
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    The ride quality of my air to coils is only a little softer proballly only me will notice it but it is there and you do lose that good road hugging feeling and a bit of stability at high speed but like every thing you get used to it and now its one thing you dont have to worry about letting you down plenty of others for that.
    Tony.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Victoria
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    I understand what you are saying but the car is now 18 years old and unfortunately components do wear out, seals fail and glues stop working.

    With the EAS being completely rebuilt what failed? It should have been ultra reliable. I know of one Classic Rangie with 340 thousand on the clock and all the air system has ever needed was a rebuilt compressor which was done about 5000 kays ago.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
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    When I had my pump re-built (locally) it was stressed that 'Leak Detection' must be high on my list of To-Do things. Followed by squeaky-clean air (filter).

    - Dirty or perishing foam filter media finds its way into the pump, reducing the effectiveness of the valves...which makes the pump pump longer...and gets hotter...which reduces its effieciency...so it has to pump longer,- which makes it get hotter.. ad infinitum.

    Garbage can also find its way through the pump into the valve body, so that the individual air-valves do not seal 100%... so the pump will have to pump more often....

    Then Land Rover put the pump and valve body UNDER the car where it gets the most water and dust, and the air filter where its least likely to get serviced.

    If you take it into water thats up to normal 4WD levels, you've drowned the pump and never mind what the moisture will do to the electrical connectors!

    Truly brilliant marketing and design by the Accounts Dept at LR.

    Grumpy James in Gosnells.

    Look on the bright side. The floaty ride at highway speeds will frighten you into travelling a bit slower....and save you fuel

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