Thread: Engine mounts

I have blown the 3.5 in my '84 rangie and have now got a P76 4.4 to replace it. I have searched the forum and don't really have an answer, but what is the best way to go about the engine mounts? Do i use the 3.5 mounts or the 4.4 mounts and how much cutting and shutting is involved.

Use the 3.5 engine mounts, drill the block for the extra lower hole, extend the bracket for the top hole.

Also can i use the 4.4 flywheel with the 5 speed rangie box or do i have to re-drill the rover one to suit the 4.4 crank. If i can't use the 4.4 one, what is the difference as i believe the rover bell housing is a straight fit to the 4.4. Can't i just use a rover clutch with the 4.4 pressure plate if the spline is the only difference.

Have the 3.5 flywheel machined to fit the 4.4 crank, and redrill it. This is a far better flywheel for a RRC clutch.

Do i need to run a radiator out of a Mack Truck to keep it cool???

They are an absolute pig to keep cool. Open up the grille (lose the bars), fit a smaller diameter water pump pulley, and a fixed fan. You will of course need to fit the 3.5 front timing housing and water pump otherwise the fan hits the chassis. There are no mounts for the alternator on the P76 heads, you will need to fab something.

As above for the engine mounts. I used the 3.5 EFI heads on the 4.4 I built for my 88RR, no problems mounting anything, just had to extend a few brackets for the 3/4" taller block. There's already a lug on the block casting for the mounts, just needs to be drilled and tapped, some simple fabrication to extend the 3.5 mounts upward to meet the 4.4 top mount holes.
Mine never had any trouble keeping cool with the 3.5 radiator, even towing in desert trips and high ambient temps.

Thanks for the help with your answers guys. I have all the gear to drill and tap and fabricate what needs to be done, i just needed the guidance. The 4.4 i am getting has everything still on it, alternator, starter and aircon pump but i will have to set the power steering pump up somehow but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. The only thing missing really is the carby. I have the 350 holley from the 3.5 but i am not a lover of them as they always seem to play up and flood on steep hills. The 4.4 also has extractors on it which i got for $25, really hope they fit.

Any preferences or recommendations for a carby on the 4.4 ????

Cheers.......................Pete!

Originally Posted by RufRangie

Thanks for the help with your answers guys. I have all the gear to drill and tap and fabricate what needs to be done, i just needed the guidance. The 4.4 i am getting has everything still on it, alternator, starter and aircon pump but i will have to set the power steering pump up somehow but that shouldn't be too much of a problem. The only thing missing really is the carby. I have the 350 holley from the 3.5 but i am not a lover of them as they always seem to play up and flood on steep hills. The 4.4 also has extractors on it which i got for $25, really hope they fit.

Any preferences or recommendations for a carby on the 4.4 ????

Cheers.......................Pete!

You will need to get the carby re-jetted for the 4.4 so at the same time get the modification done [ in the float chamber, I think ] to stop the flooding issue. Alternatively, I have heard that a 4bbl stromberg works well too. Bob

[QUOTE=bee utey;1486909]Have the 3.5 flywheel machined to fit the 4.4 crank, and redrill it. This is a far better flywheel for a RRC clutch.

I can see your point when you say it is a better flywheel as you have the experience with them, but why is it better? What is the difference between the two flywheels, is it a thickness issue or just plain quality. This is the part i don't understand and what no one has yet clarified.

Cheers.........................Pete!

[quote=RufRangie;1487521]

Originally Posted by bee utey

Have the 3.5 flywheel machined to fit the 4.4 crank, and redrill it. This is a far better flywheel for a RRC clutch.

I can see your point when you say it is a better flywheel as you have the experience with them, but why is it better? What is the difference between the two flywheels, is it a thickness issue or just plain quality. This is the part i don't understand and what no one has yet clarified.

Cheers.........................Pete!

It is heavier than the P76 one. The (bigger) Rangie pressure plate bolts right up. The P76 clutch pressure plate is much smaller so I think its easier modifying the 3.5 flywheel to fit the crank than the 4.4 one to fit the RR pressure plate.

Oh and you will need a specially made spigot bush in the 4.4 crank to support the RR input shaft. P76 uses a ball bearing, 17mm ID.