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Thread: Heater Motor Resistor Mystery

  1. #11
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    Bidds

    i've pulled my heater unit, and a/c unit out this past weekend. I too noticed the 5 wire coming from the unit only connecting to 2 wire main... seems as this has been explained in previous posts within this thread...

    what i'd be keen for some info on... is what 'recoditioning' have you done to the heater unit. Mine is working, but upon inspection of the internals (motor, fan) it is quite dirty.

    is there something i should/could do to whilst i've got it out of the car... it was an absolute 'b!TC$' to get out... the a/c took me nearly 4 hours and i ended up snapping the inlet and outlet plastic hoses of the heater unit in my frustration in getting it out... (i was unable to undo the heater hoses from the engine bay).

    i have regreased/lubed the moving parts and would welcome any ideas.

    As well... also chasing ideas for how to recondition air con... now that i have got that out.

    CHeers

    Tim

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    Hi Tim,

    My heater motor was still working too but it's copped a few mud/water baths in the time I've had it and made a few screeching sounds on occasions, so I figured it's worth swapping it out while it's all apart. I'm amazed at how resilient that motor has been - it's put up with a pretty harsh life.

    On opening the heater casing I found that most of the sealing strips around each of the flaps had come off and were floating around inside the unit. I guess that's why I was getting pretty random results from the various HVAC settings prior to dis-assembly.

    I bought a box or two of 'Raven' brand weather stripping from a hardware store, model RP59 to replace all of the old stuff. Before applying it, I washed the casings and the mixer flaps in warm soapy water to get them nice an clean again and ensure everything stuck well. When reattaching the distribution 'housings' to the lower left and right of the casings, I applied some gaffa tape to seal up the gaping holes to hopefully improve the systems performance further still.

    When reinstalling the heater unit, I replaced the hoses (and clamps): They were quite cheap even though they are apparently good quality. However, they were a bit smaller diameter than the ones that came off. I went back to my local supplier and he acknowledged it, saying that's all he could get and that they work fine. I used a bit of rubber grease to help the fitting and while a little fiddly, did go on OK.

    I've been really crook the last week and a half but should test it soon.

    With the dash gutted, I've been generally cleaning the area and re-sticking/replacing the various heat/noise insulation pads too. Also running wires for the stereo and UHF radio - the original reason I starting pulling it all apart. I've also sourced a fibreglass replacement centre console from the UK - looks just like the original and quite reasonably priced. Still looking for the bits that mount the gear indicator and the window switches but it's promising so far.

    I've not really started on the A/C itself: I'm planning to give it a good clean as there's plenty of dust there too. I'll get a mobile A/C person to come around and recharge/test it all when reassembled - I just opened mine up as it'd lost it's gas, therefore nothing to vent into the atmosphere.

    Before dis-assembling the A/C I noticed that only one of the fans was actually working, so I'm waiting to see what the new resistors do before buying another - they're not particularly cheap but I've found a place in the US that sells genuine ones. I also tested the thermostat adjuster attached to the temp slider (didn't know there was a way to regulate the cold - I'd always figured the only way to warm it a bit was to mix in fresh air) and found it going fine.

    Last thing, the resistor under the decker panel - with the dash apart, it's probably a good time to swap that out. I removed the bonnet (follow the workshop manual for that one!) and decker panel (resealed under there too) to get at it all.

    cheers,

    bidds

  3. #13
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    Bidds - great work describing what you've done, i will take it all on board and try and locate this resistor pack as well you talk of - i haven't seen it before. you reasons for removing these under dash components are similar to mine.

    As it happens, other than the heater unit motor not working, the reason for my interest in restoring the interior has been because some idiot broke in and nicked my stereo and cb and smashed up the console, etc - so i'm now replacing it with a 7 inch double din unit (yes... where does this fit you might ask?) which i'm installing on the dash and making a fibreglass pod to encase it - finished off with a few carbon fibre layers - fingers crossed as i'm an amateur at best when it comes to fibreglassing.

    THanks again and i'll be posting my leather seat makeovers soon.

    CHeers Tim

  4. #14
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    I came across this from Atlantic British. I think it's well priced and a good option for those whose resistor has died.

    Resistor - A/C & Heater Blower Motor - Land Rover & Range Rover Parts

    See also: OkieRover.com


    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #15
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    That's the one I used - seems to work we'll.

    Cheers

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