Reply With Quote1 more question for you all:
The manual specifies 91ron regular unleaded. Is there any advantage in running premium/98? and are e10 ethanol blends good or bad? (actually thats 2 questions!!!)
Fossicker
I think if i do go gas (It wont be for at least another few months) underfloor looks like a good option (if I need extended petrol range -which would be pretty rare- i'll just load up a couple of Jerrys. - Ive been told that the custom smaller petrol tank is a big part of the cost, Is it safe/legal to use a second hand one and is a disco one compatible?Originally Posted by bee utey
Cheers!
Fossicker
1 more question for you all:
The manual specifies 91ron regular unleaded. Is there any advantage in running premium/98? and are e10 ethanol blends good or bad? (actually thats 2 questions!!!)
YarnMaster
98 will make it run smoother and feel a bit better down low but won't make a huge change overall. 95 is a good compromise with the occasional tank of 98.
E10 isn't suitable and should not be used.
Tweaks such as adjust timing to 9deg BTDC and making sure the vac advance unit is working correctly will make it silky smooth. Use genuine Lucas cap and rotor button and for a real top off, Bosch Gen III injectors. Easy job to do, easy to source on fleabay (SVO Mustang injectors 19lb/hr units) and make a world of difference to cold starting and overall performance.
Use the search function for the Gen III injectors, myself, Mike90RR and others have both dabbled in this and are more than happy with the results. The Lucas injectors are renowned for shocking fuel figures when worn.
I could go on and on and on, but....
Enjoy
Andrew
Fossicker
Hmmmmm most interesting! Just out of interest what is a 'normal' (vaguely average) city cycle consumption figure for a 3.9 Vogue? I just filled mine and refilled at 100km after lots of stop start/running around and I'd used 23 litres. Does this sound roughly right? (there were a few lead foot moments.... purely for scientific testing)
YarnMaster
There's varied figures which tend to depend on driving style. Some record 17L/100 to 20L/100 around town, some even worse. I would average about 19ish but I have a tendency to "knee deep" it sometimes.
Best I've had was about 16 highway but sat on about 110 with spats at 120.
Ironically it gets worse when due for an oil change.
ChatterBox
SubscriberNon-functioning cruise control is nearly always due to the vacuum hoses splitting where they are pushed onto the various components and connectors. Locate the cruise control actuator on the throttle assembly and trace the vacuum hoses, checking all the ends for splitting. Very quick fix is to cut off the split part and push the (now slightly shorter) hose back on. The vacuum pump is under the L/H battery box and is a dog to get to, make sure you put the vac hose back on the correct nipple here as inlet & outlet are the same. They will soon split again though once they are a bit heat affected, I ended up replacing all the hose with new and it has lasted well.
Re the underfloor gas, I removed the setup from a RR and installed it into a Disco, had to slightly change the brackets on the gas tank cradle. The petrol tank is completely different. Unfortunately the one that goes in the RR only holds about 22litres, whereas the disco one is about 40litres.
I have the Disco gas & petrol tanks on eBay at present, the gas tanks would suit you but not the petrol tank.
Wizard
Hi Yuri,
Me personally I wouldn't touch LPG. I've got an 86 RRC, I've just stripped all the LPG out the vehicle is a lot happier now, runs a lot better. The atomisation gizmo did something it shouldn't have and back fired through the MAF, that was the end of that, had a hells own job trying to find a second hand MAF unit. I did have a spare MAF unit but thats gone silly now. Mines all fixed now, I've just put a later dizzy in with a later module. The engines tend to be touchy enough without adding things that the engine wasn't designed for.
I had a P38 with EAS, fantastic, same as the others I would stick with it, I've got EAS on my D3, awesome.
Have fun, you do realise that that is it now your sucked in for good....... sorry.
ForumSage
Yuri,
There is no doubt that your affliction is terminal, the only chance of a cure will be when 17 things go pear-shaped at the same time.... and you go bankrupt trying to fix it.
But the chances of winning Lotto are better...
The Cruise Control... From my own experience, the first thing to do is to get hold of the RAVE manual in CD form. Find the C/Control trouble-shooting section and faithfully follow it step by step.
I printed it out and wrote down the proceedures used and results...
This later proved a winner as I short-cutted one step - and it turned out to be the problem. (I presume you've visually checked & fixed all the leaky hoses as suggested.)
A couple of things. The brake switch is a double-function unit. Firstly it is an electric switch, and secondly it dumps the vacuum in the lines so that the brakes are not fighting the engine.
In my case, this turned out to be the culprit, as well as leaky lines. The mounting is not the most robust, and mine was moving enough to mimic the depressed brake pedal..... so the C/C was on permanant holiday... nor was the vacuum pump running. Ever. - I'd tested it by manually moving the plunger with my fingers... but when I re-mounted it, the plunger did not move quite enough.... Discovered this only when I re-ran the proceedure the third time.
Now its so sensitive that thinking about 'brakes' will trigger it. Perfect!
The appropriate incantations and oaths will materially assist in the removal & replacement of the Hidden Pump.
Other than the 'Decrease by 1 mph' function not happening, mine is a gentle and stable Cruise Control, - almost as smooth as my (now deceased) Toyota Crown, which incidently, was fully operational right up to being Put To Sleep.
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