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Thread: Installing a later distributor in an 1986 classic

  1. #1
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    Installing a later distributor in an 1986 classic

    Hi Forumites,
    I have a 1986 3.5 EFI Classic Range Rover, I want to put the later distributor in because I'm having a few issues with the early set up. I now have a later distributor and the module that goes with it, plus the wiring of course.
    The early distributor has three wires that go into the multi pin plug, a black one which I've figured out, a solid white one and a white one with a blue tracer that goes into the plug as that and comes out white with a black tracer.
    On the later distributor I have two blue with a white tracer and one white with a green tracer, do the two white with a blue tracer get joined together and connect to the single existing white with a blue tracer? And does the white with a green tracer join to the existing solid white wire. The wiring diagrams don't show this. Can anyone help?

  2. #2
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    So you have taken out the original 35DM8 Dizzy (a two wire job) and replaced it with what ? A 35DLM8 from a 87-93 (3 wire) amp on side of dizzy , or perhaps the even later dizzy with remote amp from a Disco or serpentine 3.9 ? By the colors your quoting it would be the 87-89 type . with the amp on the side . Im afraid the first thing you need to do is dump the Lucas amp and fit the Bosch BIM024 as per Beeuteys instructions .Those wires are bringing in the Fuel overrun cut-off valve (if fitted , possibly bridged allready) Were the resistors on the negative side of the coil ?
    Tell ya what , Ill be down in Perth in week , go get a BIM024 module , and we will have it all wired up in half and hour .(check you do have the "electronic Coil!)

  3. #3
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    Hi There,
    I've got the whole set up, dizzy, coil and amp, plus all the wiring, this hasn't got the amp on the side its on a bracket that goes between the coil bracket and the inner guard, I think I've figured it out, I just have to get the timing right and align the oil pump drive to get the dizzy back in. The gear is Bosh gear, where do I find Beeuteys instructions?
    The white /green wire connects to the + side of the coil, which is the solid white wire out of the loom. It is these two other wires which both appear to connect to the - side of the coil, they both go through these two small black blocks that look like resistors. I just need to know if I need both or would one be fine, I can't see the need for both of them.
    Appreciate the information, if I'm still stuck next Friday is my RDO if you are bored.... I'm hoping with a good run at it tonight I'll get the old girl going.

  4. #4
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    If you have a dissy with a remote amp it wouldn't have the oil pump drive unless you swapped it off the original dissy. Test fit the dissy, mark where the rotor button stops, remove, inspect slot position at aligned mark, align oil pump drive to suit, refit dissy. Make sure the dissy pickup teeth align at no.1 timing position and it should start. Use a timing light to correct the final tuning.

    The dissy wiring needs only one connection from the negative side of the coil to the loom on most vehicles, this wire goes to the ECU and provides the RPM signal. On your vehicle it goes via a vacuum overrun cutout on the manifold, there may be a relay involved as well. It is white/black on one side of the resistor and white/blue on the other. The best way is to reconnect the original wires from the loom to the coil, and leave off any extras.

    Bosch amp conversion pics, details and discussion here:

    Lucas ignition amplifier replacement by Bosch 024

  5. #5
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    Hi Beeutey,
    I did swap the oil pump drive from the original dizzy to the new one, didn't seem like a good idea to leave it out. You are right about the relay, this has a white wire with a blue tracer, the intention is to connct that to the negative side of the coil, this is where it looks like it should go and where it was connected to the old dizzy, my only concern was these two "resistory" looking things that I'm not sure if I need them or not, by what is being said I'm assuming not. Great help thanks

  6. #6
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    Closing the loop......success

    Hi Guys,
    Just to let you know I've finished fitting the new dizzy, wired up the module as the old dizzy came off, first time I was a tooth out and couldn't get the timing quite right. After more fiddling around with the oil pump drive I've now got her running, one word describes the difference AWESOME............ bloody amazing the difference. I also found that the diaphragm was busted in the old dizzy advance and retard, I'm sure that wouldn't of helped the cause.

    Anyway all done, time for a coldie to celebrate, thanks for the guidance guys.

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