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Thread: Heater core

  1. #1
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    Heater core

    Just got a quote to replace my heater and it's like 2 grand!!!! Any ideas other than freezing?

  2. #2
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    can of harden up and a jumper.

    you have to pull the dash out of the rangies to get to the heater core...

    not much fun and as always, on an older vehicle plastic things in the dash WILL break and will need replacing..
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    So she's a write off then? There is no cheapish way out... Pay or freeze?

  4. #4
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    I put stop leak in my radiator, now the lever between the hot/cold is stuck. It takes a huge amount of effort (all my strength) to move it. Is this conincidence or has the stop leak glued together the switcher?
    I hope I'm not up for replacing my heater core also..

  5. #5
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    yep, the stop leak has effectively welded the shaft for the valve to the housing.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rage rover View Post
    So she's a write off then? There is no cheapish way out... Pay or freeze?
    No cheapish way I can think of and its a PITA job, not suprised its 2k.
    you can buy little 12v cab heaters but im not sure how effective they are

  7. #7
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    Mmm gotta research this more. It's a great bus now and it owes me nothing, might be on the cards

  8. #8
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    You could always move to the North West WA. Won't need the heater then.
    Warren

    Currently Landroverless - Still interested
    Formerly: 2003 D2a Update TD5 Auto. Platinum edition. ARB Bar, 36" LED light bar, cargo barrier, dual batteries.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by happykid55 View Post
    I put stop leak in my radiator, now the lever between the hot/cold is stuck. It takes a huge amount of effort (all my strength) to move it. Is this conincidence or has the stop leak glued together the switcher?
    I hope I'm not up for replacing my heater core also..
    I just rebuilt my 1990 version and assuming similar basic operation, the hot/cold lever just moves an air flap inside the casing, allowing more or less air to pass through the core and into the cabin. There isn't a conventional heater tap to turn the coolant water on/off - it's always flowing through the heater core.

    If the hot/cold lever is stuck perhaps you've got a leak in the heater core that has sprayed all over the place and gummed up the pivots for the flap or stuck it's edges to the housing; then the stop-leak has plugged the leak (assuming you had/have one).

    I'd get the heater core changed or you'll likely end up with all the coolant in the footwells and an overheated engine. It is a PITA to do but if you can take the truck off the road for a while, take it slow and you'll get it sorted for hundreds instead of thousands.

    cheers,

    bidds

  10. #10
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    Just replace the core, get one off the net. I did my 1990 was a PITA took a day but you can do it

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