Thread: Electrical help with ignition wiring

Originally Posted by RR90_Goat

all with respect to a 1990 Vogue RRC

Gday... i've taken on a few projects and this one seemed simple enough. Remove existing imobiliser/alarm and replace it with a perimeter keyless entry start button system - doing away with the normal ignition key and the need to use the fob to open and close the doors.

Well... i'm close - this is where i'm at...



I have two dilemmas that i would be grateful for assistance.

First Dilemma
the wiring diagram shows an ON2 state - where it is meant to be 0v before ignition and 12v after ignition - can anyone tell me what wire does this? is it an Oil Pump wire? Fuel Pump wire? Alternator?

Second Dilemma
the start button system requires the STOP LIGHTS circuit to be powered at all times - you push the start button in conjunction with the brake pedal to get it to sequence through ACC and ON1 and then START. For some reason (perhaps i've pulled something out), the brake lights only come on when the key is in ON1 position (ie the dash lights are on).

What i do know is as follows (wire colour in brackets) - there are only four states i can find:
Power - 12v constant (Brown)
ACC - accessories - 12v when turned to ACC (White/Orange)
ON1 - on position 1 - 12v when turned to ON1 (White)
START - ignition - 2secs at 12v then 0v (White/Red)

Brake wire - (Green Purple) comes from top of pedal.



I would be grateful for any assistance to identify a wire that is
- 0v then 12v after the car is on and
- a solution to the brake line matter.

I would love to be back on the road by Monday.

Cheers

Tim

just take the ON2 power from the normal ignition power? some cars have 2 accesories settings, and then ignition on, the diagram is probably for them.

with the brakes, just change the feed for the brakes from a ignition switched source to a constant power source. problem solvered.

Generally there is 2 ignition feeds, one on then off whilst cranking, the other, which feed the ignition is on in the on position and also stays one whilst cranking, nothing is off in the on position then on when running

Can't help that the instructions are in Chinglish. Maybe that's how those Great Wall things are wired?
That wiring diagram does not relate to your vehicle, you will have to do as Goat says and run both their 'on' power feeds from your white wire. Power your brake light input from the brown wire (make sure it's fused) and Mao's your uncle.

tomisawesome

As the ON2 is to be 0v before start and 12v after, i'm going to simply leave it out of the connections - it has no role to play in the Range Rover, and shouldn't affect the functionality of the device.

I note RAVE electronic diagram shows the brake feeds off the ON1 source, so i shall switch this to the battery feed - thanks for that one...

One further dilemma i have is that the chinese is poorly translated into english. It states that in oder to protect Starter Motor, i need to connect a wire to the "Oil Pump" or the "Generator" (Alternator ??). The purpose i suspect is to stop the ignition firing, should the start button be depressed whilst driving (ie like turning the key when the motor is already on.

ideas welcomed.

cheers

Tim

been here before...

its the position for glow plugs....

the ign switch should function as follows.

Off (stable position)
ACC (stable position)
ON 1 (stable position its the normal ignition run, in the case of a suzi this position turns on the fuel)
ON 2 (spring loaded in the case of a suzi this position turns on the glow plugs)
Start (turns over the startermotor + in some cases turns OFF the ACC items)

if your your keyless start do dad supports the second on position it more than likely set up so that ON2 comes online AFTER the engine has been started (in reality its probably set to come on after the Starter has been cranked) so that high current items like heated seats and demisters only come on when the engine is running and the alternator is putting out power.

the cut out on the oil pressure sender will be the signal to stop the startermotor from winding over. Once the oil pressure comes up it disables the starter motor. Good luck if the oil pressure comes up faster than the engine starts (IE restarting after you've stalled it)

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the cut out on the oil pressure sender will be the signal to stop the startermotor from winding over. Once the oil pressure comes up it disables the starter motor. Good luck if the oil pressure comes up faster than the engine starts (IE restarting after you've stalled it)

very good... now would the 'cut out on the oil pressure sender' be the same wire that lights up the oil pressure lamp on the dash. From the RAVE wiring diagram there are only four references to 'oil' wiring.

1. Oil pressure/warning lamp (# 112)
2. Oil Switch (# 113)
3. Low Oil level logic unit (# 149)
4. Low Oil level probe (# 150)

I put the multimetre on the Oil pressure/warning lamp wire (WN - see elect diagram below) and it read 12v before I had started the car - which is not what i'm casing. I have discounted numbers 2, 3 and 4 in the list above as being this 'cut out'.

Am i looking in the right area? Should this cut out wire be coming off a probe? Can i trace it back from the engine bay perhaps?

Thanks in advance... i am very grateful.

Regards... Tim

the photos a little blurry so a little bit of best guessing here.

about in the middle is #112 thats the low oil warning lamp.

its power feed comes from W (Ignition Load Relay) goes to the lamp through a switch (the oil pressure switch on the engine) to earth (when the oil pressure is low the switch is closed so the light comes on.

depending on how "much" 12v the device needs to operate you might be able to tap the wire down on the sender, when the switch is open (engine running) it will have 12v on it through the oil pressure warning light but it will only deliver 12v at about .5w. once the engine shuts down and the oil pressure drops then it will have 0V as it will essentially be shorted to earth and the warning light will come on.

What you can do is wire in a relay that will switch a 12v rail off of the oil pressure sender.

the other alternative (and again this depends on a couple of things) is to tap the aux power outlet (or create one) on the alternator. It will be 0v when the engine is stopped and +~12 v when the engine is running.

Dave

well i have found out what it's like without the connection to the 12v source after firing... starter motor cranks and crunches away. without this 12v source, it also seems to have an impact on Stopping the engine using the Start/Stop button - it thinks its not On.

I've traced back to alternator and found a Brown Yellow wire which has minimum voltage prior to start, but then gives the full 12v+ after... i suspect the auxillar power outlet you describe.

of course... when i hooked this up... it still started giving me grief... i was puzzled and ended up pulling the unit apart to see the jumpers inside. a brief note on the Chinglish instructions suggested this for the alternator wiring solution.

at the same time i took the screws out... i notice an ON / OFF switch. yes... it was in the OFF position. so since i turned it to the ON position (what a concept i know ).

So thanks for your support and the rest of the forum... it is now working a treat. challenge will be now to get it back under the dash and still allow for the air vent hose to fit.

the unit cost $229 from www.dhgate.com - was one of a host of units on offer, and the service was 20 out of 10... they phoned (even though i couldn't understand them), they were in contact several times, and posted it within 5 days from Hong Kong. Thoroughly recommend.

Thanks again... Tim

87 - earth wire of 113 switch