No problems with plugging the ends. There are purpose made rubber block off caps ( Usually where you see the auto nuts and bolts stands) in various sizes.
Tiny problem, but want to be sure-to be sure that some damage does'nt eventuate down the track...
Does anyone know of any reason, or damage that might be caused by 'plugging' the heater send/return hoses, so that there is NO flow at all from the engine block to the heater, rather than merely short-circuiting it ? (and allowing more than usual flow)
My '95 Classic 3.9 has corroded metal pipes that feed through the firewall, and I'd like to drive it till I save up enough to replace them...
What I'm trying to avoid for now, is the little , 4" long, 3/4 to 7/8" joiner from the block to the heater-circuit.
Any thoughts welcome
James in Gosnells
'95 Classic Vogue SE with working air suspension AND Cruise Control.
- and stuffed bottom radiator hoses, and leaky power-steering pipes too...![]()
No problems with plugging the ends. There are purpose made rubber block off caps ( Usually where you see the auto nuts and bolts stands) in various sizes.
Blanking it will work, I prefer to loop the hoses back onto each other, primarily because it helps with bleeding
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
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TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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I prefer looping the hoses becuse it helps keeping a good flow of coolant around the engine with the thermostat closed, reducing hot spots. You should be able to find a suitable hose at an auto shop, e.g falcon EB etc heater hose to firewall has a u-turn.
Two good reasons to loop.![]()
Loop it .... A rummage through the plumbing department at the hardware store should bring up a couple of 90 degree copper elbows and 4 hose clamps
Actually, looping is'nt the niggle, its the imbeciles who put a 'large' (7/8") fitting on the top of the engine to feed hot water to the heater.
But the length of metal pipe it feeds, is a 'smaller' diameter. (3/4") - As is the rest of the heater hoses and pipes.
No prizes for guessing how expen$ive this 4" piece of work is.... and why I have no intention of being ripped off.
A double-ended hose barb, with the ends of the required diameters. Plus 2 extra hose clamps and $3.00 of heater hose.
I'll keep the flow going...
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