Thread: Identify this radius rod

The reason to move forward would be to be able to run larger tyres wthout fouling the floor/bulkhead.
There is not much clearance there. of course you could always do a body lift.
A friend runs 35s on a D1 with only a 2 inch body lift and std suspension height. It was in 4wd Australia last year.
Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by uninformed

correcting the castor with the RA will give the wrong pinion angle....as the diff travles down the pinion wants to point more up towards the T/case, if you correct the castor it will rotate the pinion down away from the T/case....aftermarket prop shafts can fix this.....IMO a straight arm is the way to go...in either design the chassis end is NOT the limiting factor/bush

Without sounding rude, have a reread of what I wrote. I noted the fact that the crank is in the wrong direction for castor correction and that the cranked arm in the first picture does ok for clearance you need to correct that bend plus additional for the castor correction with another bend at the diff end. And all this bending is making the arm shorter. Now if I had a D1 I could space the arm forward with a spacer between the arm and bush forward of the chassis (this is also does to correct slight diff housing alignments) but the D2 is a (better?) design.

As you've noted the lift plus crank will rotate the pinion more upwards, BUT if we correct castor of the diff with the arms then the pinion will be rotated back to standard.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

As you've noted the lift plus crank will rotate the pinion more upwards, BUT if we correct castor of the diff with the arms then the pinion will be rotated back to standard.

no, I said if you lift a vehicle on its springs with stock arms, the pinion is correct as the diff is just traveling though its standard arc. If you correct the castor with the arm it will point the pinion down, yes it may be the same angle as stock, but as your diff to T/case relation has changed due to the lift it doesnt want to be stock......

some consider the D2 chassis end to be better, Im no engineer but I cant see the advantage...the original parrallel pin, in my mind, rotates with the twist of the RA. The chassis end, much to some peoples disbelief, does not limit travel in the front end....simple test, flex and droop your front end with no shocks etc, then undo an RA and see how far it travels up and down by itself. The stock OEM bushes have a tendency to "weld" themselves to restrict twist, super pro dont seem to have this problem

If you are getting serious about big lif and tyres, the stock 3 degrees castor may not be enough. Yes plenty get by and seems fine, as there are tollerances in the stock set up....but these lifts etc could be better

btw, take what I say with a big IMO.........I could be totally wrong