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Thread: 85 RRC head removal

  1. #11
    Butts McCool Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Butts McCool View Post
    Forgot to say, be careful when torquing down bolts as I managed to snap off two when I was refitting the water pump, and I hadn't yet reached the 8lb torque setting!

    I have to get the scanner set up, then Ill post the cylinder head bolt tightening sequence diagram.

    Cheers

    Matt

    Bolt tensioning sequence attached.

    Of interest i've seen many reports (including some from rover specialists) that state the bottom row of bolts (11 - 14) should only be torqued to 20lb, if used at all, as they exert a torquing force on the heads that can lead to pressurization of the engine valley and subsequent gunking up etc. Any thoughts?
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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Mooroolbark, Vic
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    I didn't machine my heads. I used composite gaskets because i figure they are a bit more "forgiving" than tin ones. It just gives lower compression.

    Not strictly correct for a 3.5L, but runs great.

  3. #13
    Butts McCool Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldog View Post
    I didn't machine my heads. I used composite gaskets because i figure they are a bit more "forgiving" than tin ones. It just gives lower compression.

    Not strictly correct for a 3.5L, but runs great.
    I was going to go with the composites but my usual guy couldnt source any at short notice (he advised me to go with the composite over the metal).

    At the end of the day I want to get the old girl back on the road and the job only needs to last 20,000 - 30,000 km before ill be upgrading anyhow. We only paid $2,500 for her and she has been a good bus but Im not wanting to spend a whole heap.

    Cheers

    Matt

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