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Thread: Freewheeling hubs and Viscous Centre

  1. #1
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    Freewheeling hubs and Viscous Centre

    I am looking for a little advice if you please.

    The front double-cardan needs to come off my 92 classic for a rebuild. I have 60 series axles with freewheeling hubs (normally locked all the time) and a viscous centre diff.

    Any thoughts on running it in 2WD for a while on tarmac with the hubs unlocked for a week or so? Handling problems (I am on 35's), wear and tear, possible breakages?

    I am also looking for someone in the Hornsby area to do the rebuild. Someone mentioned Wooders in Leighton Place. Any others to consider in the area?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Is your viscious coupling working properly ? - If so, my understanding of BW transfer case is.... disconnect the front (or rear) driveshaft or hubs (?) - and you will annoy the VC to the point of eventual failure.

    Low or zero load at either end of the transfer case will result in the VC 'locking up' both front/rear shafts to same speed, thus limiting the drive delivered to the slipping axle/wheel to only 50%. The other 50% goes to the 'good' axle.

    Or if you fiddle the figures, 100% drive goes to the non-spinning axle, you get 2WD.... but your VC gets hot and bothered and will not like you.

    BW Spare Parts Dept will, however, Thank you....

    By the way, have you got a Jap front diff/axle setup with hub locks ? - What medictions do you use on the car to prevent rejection symptoms ?

    Don't know anything about running a Classic on Big Wheels, especially as a 2WD. Except a suspicion that the RR rear diff will be 'under-built to take 100% of the drive load, seeing as it normally gets around 50%

  3. #3
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    A bloke I know took out his P38 (BW transfer) front shaft for the purpose of doing a dyno run, as there isn't a 4 wheel dyno around here. He drove like that for a week or so, with one proviso:

    It made rude slippy noises if he tried to extract any reasonable amount of power in first gear, like traffic light launches, or steep hill starts.

    Other than that he reported no drama from this exercise.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by superquag View Post
    you....

    By the way, have you got a Jap front diff/axle setup with hub locks ? - What medictions do you use on the car to prevent rejection symptoms ?
    Don't know anything about running a Classic on Big Wheels, especially as a 2WD. Except a suspicion that the RR rear diff will be 'under-built to take 100% of the drive load, seeing as it normally gets around 50%
    Thanks for the warning gents. I do have a Jap front and rear diff (or 'slitty bits') as they call them on the UK Landrover forums (Ron will probably delete this part of the post)
    I find that my sons Ritalin works a treat when I drive the Rangie. Jack & Jim help me out when I am not going anywhere. and the car gets copious amounts of attention, the budget of a small third world country and a dash of Redex every now and again to keep it in line and on the road. So I will take your advice and use Shank's Pony for a few days.

    BTW - Off topic, I just had a Britpart distributor arrive from the UK and it has an extra spade terminal behind the 3 pin socket on the top of the amplifier. This appears to be incorporated where the Amp attaches to the distibutor body. Any idea what this is for?

  5. #5
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    Redex ! - Gosh, thats showing your Vintage... I remember the stuff.... pouring it down the carby, ostensibly to clean out the carbon etc, but in reality to smoke out the neighbors...

    It was such FUN.

  6. #6
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    I could cry......

    I finally get the engine running as it should after fitting the new dizzy from Britpart. It now idles smoothly, there is no popping from the exhaust, there is a slight increase in power, however most noticably the 'Up' gear-changes (auto) now occur much lower in the rev-range indicating, I guess, a lot more torque being generated. However on the test drive I noticed some severe clunking coming from the front each time I hit a speedhump....

    So off comes the front driveshaft as I need to get to the bottom of various clicking/rattling/clunking noises from the front driveshaft/diff area and the front diff is.......spinning freely?????

    ... off come the cover plates for the front wheel centres and the hubs are....Unlocked!!! .... either the muppet who re-built my offside swivel-hub has stuffed up and tried to cover up the evidence, or someone who does not like my Rangie has had a tinker whilst I am not looking....???? (sorry, lots of bad thoughts going through my head right now, not all will be justified)

    ......now, and with the hubs locked, there is no more clunking over speedhumps however I have a squeeling noise occuring at full lock with a slight clicking noise (someone told me that mild clicking was normal with ChroMo CV's at full lock) from the front corners, and some slight rattling from I think the driveshafts....oh, and the front locker does not engage, or at least the compressor under my seat keeps running when it should stop on engagement.

    So all questions regarding driving with a viscous centre with unlocked hubs is null and void as I have been doing this for a few weeks now (fortunately only once a week around the block to blow the cobwebs away) whilst I was sorting the engine problems.

    Importantly, on a previous test run when I thought the engine problems were sorted, I took it for a run on the F3 and when I realised I was on 120kph+ I backed off and heard a loudish clunk with what felt like a slight lurch to the left. I drove home very tentatively after that but there were no other noticeable problems at the time.

    So I guess it is time to source a Discovery transfer case with centre diff-lock and to look at stripping down the front axle for an examination of its bits and pieces to see what is broken.....and then get my wallet out!

    And yes......I should have checked the hubs before I drove it......

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