First of all. I was blown away by the difference the upgrade kit made. I thought just the crystal cut lights made a huge difference, this was nothign compared to the upgrade kit....
So I'm about to install the driving light upgrade. on my RRC the is a 'stalk switch' (RHS) which seems to be for driving lights. I would like to use this instead of having another switch in the dash (I like the cleaner look ).
Obviously for wiring its just a case of finding the right wires and hooking up to them. My question is:
Does anyone know how these operate, ie if the switch is on and the high beam is on too. would the driving lights turn off if I dipped the high beams & come back on once the high beams were put back on?
I did it on mine and I have the seperate switch on the dash as a master but the traxide kit should link in and it will dip with the high beam
any question Tim at traxide is very helpful to call
Hi BrenDo good to hear that you are pleased with the Traxide upgrade. I have just purchased the Headlight / Driving Light Kit. I have dual batteries under the passanger seat so do you think there is enought room there to mount the supplied Circuit Breaker. Also did you end up using the pre-existing driving light switch. Hope to hear from you. TIger
The short stalk switch on the column is for the rear fog lamps (I assume you're talking about an early-ish RRC; my 1984 2- door had this). It is wired to operate the rear fog lamps in conjunction with low beam headlamps- or possibly both low- and high-beam. It makes an ideal driving light switch but you have to rewire it to have power available only on high beam, just find the input wire to the switch in your column harness, cut it, then splice it in to the adjacent wire that has power only with high-beam on. Then you can redirect the power output from the switch to your driving-lamp relay. Driving lights will then operate only on high beam, and can be switched off independently- which is the correct way to wire them.
It is a driving light switch and powered by the blue wire from the main light switch.
Should be red / yellow and blue / yellow wires coming out for each driving light, but these MUST only trigger aftermarket relays, like your main light switch should be, i.e. don't run all the current for any of your main lighting through the switches.
In stock form the short stalk switch can be on, and driving lights will go off when you dip your lights, mine does, i.e. no power in red / yellow and blue / yellow wires when lights are on but dipped. Come back on when when you flick to high beam.
Here's two pics showing the differance a headlight relay makes.
I did a Rough As Guts lash-up, all 'Plug & Play' - and here's the voltage on the (removed) headlamp socket, then the voltage available on the relay's output. (11.70 and 12.17 so you need not bother opening the pics and seeing my doubtful handiwork!)
So far, the relays are powering the LH side only, as I wanted to see the relative brightness L to R. Also, too cold to stay outdoors and take the battery out to fit the RH plug....
Will this kit improve the lights on my 93 classic? There's already a huge hella relay under the steering access panel. I don't have spotlights yet but the normal low/high beams are rubbish. I removed my front spoiler that had the rectangle lights but still have the wires/plugs hanging down. Is it safe to extend these and put 100W spotties? Is this what the kit is for, improving the stock rectangle lights?
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