-
30th April 2012, 08:32 PM
#1
3.9 i cutttiing out
Hi, My 1990 RR classic cuts out while driving along (feels like ignition cutting out) . Then when l restart it it idles high about 2000 RPM for a few minutes. if i am driving at 100 kmh it wont die all together just no power at all then restarts with a cough and splutter then ok again and might drive well for another 50 km. l have replaced the ignition amplifer module and fuel filter and spark plugs but no change. Any help would be great.
-
30th April 2012, 11:56 PM
#2
Last edited by Hobbes; 1st May 2012 at 12:03 AM.
Reason: Broken link
-
30th April 2012, 11:59 PM
#3
Hi Zana,
It's not an easy one as it's obviously intermittent. However, I'd have a look at the both fuel pump and main ecu relays: - they're located under the drivers seat behind the ecu. I(f they're original, they'll be aluminium cased Lucas - aftermarket, brown Bosch).
I had the same issue and replaced both which fixed it - didn't have the time to mess around with it at the time but later investigation revealed a sticking FP relay.
Just note though - they look the same and do the same as a standard 5 pin relay but have a diode in them which protects the ecu from back emf . They cost about $30 more than standard relays..pays your cash etc!
The revs flaring to 2k when you restart - Do you get an irregular idle normally? If so clean the Idle control valve located at the back drivers side of the plenum - idle problems
Other than that it could be a few other things - but check those first as they're cheap.
-
1st May 2012, 08:40 AM
#4
Sometimes cutting out on light throttle is caused by a worn out Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which develops a gap in the resistor just off idle.
Usually the stopping is preceded by a "tip in" hesitation, like when you go down a hill with foot off the accelerator, then resume speed by placing your foot back on the accelerator.
There are posts on here on how to check the TPS.
Regards Philip A
-
1st May 2012, 06:08 PM
#5
Thanks very much for your help Hobbes and PhilipA.
l was starting to think about the fuel pump so l might turn keys off next time it is playing up and check fuel preasure (at filter l suppose would be easyiest and safest). The engine normally idles very smooth and at a constant RPM so it might not be the TPS. Heres hoping next time it plays up l can find something. Thanks again. Zana.
-
1st May 2012, 07:17 PM
#6
It will idle OK with a dead TPS, and maybe rev except maybe with a cough. It is off idle where it usually sits when you are doing 60-80 or so or whatever you do most.
Regards Philip A
-
1st May 2012, 08:40 PM
#7
Thanks again PhilipA. Yes it could be the TPS . l will check the posts on it to see if i can work out how to diagnose the TPS .
Regards Zana
-
5th May 2012, 10:18 PM
#8
It was the bloody coil.
Hi, l replaced the coil and all seems well. l think because the coil was playing up it was confusing the computer hence the high and flucturating idle (idling at 2000 rpm at times and at other times a surging idle from 700rpm to 2500 rpm but only when the coil had caused the car too miss or stall intermittely) Just goes to show that we can all get caught up with all the computer controlled stuff and think it is all too hard, but if we go back to the basics most of the time we can work it out. THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP. RegardsZana. ( happily driving his range rover classic again)
-
26th May 2012, 02:13 PM
#9
lts not the coil
Hi, l thought the coil had fixed the problem but no luck. Have since replaced fuel pump still the same problem. Then bipassed the inertia switch ( the switch under the passenger seat that cuts power to the fuel pump in a roll over sittuation) still no joy. It has spark when it does not start, so l am still leaning to fuel supply. When it stalls there is a heavy fuel smell and when i wind it over there is smoke still coming from the exhaust so maybe an over supply of fuel. Any ideas would be great.
THANKS ZANA
-
26th May 2012, 02:42 PM
#10
If it runs rich it could be a few things.
1 The ECU temperature sensor near no 2 (RH front ) injector could have a bad connection or be faulty.Should be 300 Ohms across the terminals at operating temp.
2 The MAF connector could be bad. It is an idea to twist the prongs A LITTLE with needle nose pliers to ensure a good connection.If the ECU loses signal from the MAF it goes into "Limp Home Mode" until switched off , the capacitor de energised and restarted.This is quite rich
3 Still the TPS
4 Fuel pressure regulator
Regards Philip A
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
|
Search All the Web!
|
Bookmarks