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Thread: felt rubber/ removal of window for tinting

  1. #1
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    felt rubber/ removal of window for tinting

    Hi guys,
    I went to have my windows tinted today. Apparently the guy can't do it cause the felt rubbers are pulling in a lot of dirt into the tint.

    so I need to know can I get replacement felt rubber? and/or how hard is it to remove the window and refit (without scratching the new tint.

    the manual has alot of steps but its hard to judge just reading the manual how hard of a job it actually is.

  2. #2
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    On a 2 door I have replaced the window runner felts just by putting the window down, then prising the top of the felt out and pulling hard.

    The new felt can be fed down the channel with the window down, then if it will not go any further, put the window up a bit while holding the felt in place, then put the window down while holding the felt to the glass.

    To hold it in place in the channel, put some contact cement on the felt and the door frame while the window is open and then push it finally into position.
    I haven't tried it on a 4 door but should be similar.Probably better to remove the rubber sealing strip on the top of the door /window opening.
    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
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    thanks Phil.
    where did you find the rubbers?
    my usual place have come up dry so far.

  4. #4
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    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    If you are talking of the felt lined channel in which the glass slides, it's called Bailey Channel.

    Try Scotts Old Auto Rubber Range Rover

    or Spectrum Rubber Spectrum Rubber & Panels Pty Ltd and select R -> Range.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #5
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    I got mine (2 door) from Scotts. Not installed yet....... dunno about Philip A's method but will probably give it a go.

    You can correct all manner of sins at the same time with the door trim off, window frame out, window out of frame, etc, etc; like any locking issues, opening issues, etc.

    DL

  6. #6
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    Yeah had thought about that but I don't have any issues with the doors & don't want to create some pulling the windows out.

    found a similar design channel that will work at Clarke rubber for $130 for 10m so I'll probably give that a go. the rangie stuff was order in at about $300

  7. #7
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    I found that removing the widow on my 92 wasn't a big job, and the removal of the black upper window surround from the door frame exposed a lot of rust that I would never have seen allowing my to treat and seal the frame for peace of mind.

    I think there are 2 bolts on the lock side, and a fourth requiring an Alan key on the hinge side of the door. The latter was stuck fast on mine so I had to file the top and bottom to get and adjustable wrench on there. Once unbolted, the frame pulls upwards and out of the door. The window needs to be in the down position to do this safely.

    Whilst I was inside I replaced the rusty channel holding the window (this is the channel that the electric window motor pushes/pulls against), replaced the layer of plastic dustproofing behind the interior door panel as it was ripped to shreds, and fitted a new door lock plunger surround as the old broken one was affecting the operation of the central locking.

    A worthwhile exercise I found and relatively easy. There was little potential for creating other issues.

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