I do need a compressor, and I'd recommend having one handy - because when I replaced all my springs the brake lines were juuuuuust long enough to get the new springs in with some persuasion. (Longer hoses will be put in soon.)
Ok, it looks like a King spring but which one I don't know.
I don't necessarily want to remove them either, if I could just squash it down to the bump stops to check driveshaft clearance I'd be happy. I thought about running a long threaded rod down the inside where the shock would go and wind it up with a rattle gun.
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I do need a compressor, and I'd recommend having one handy - because when I replaced all my springs the brake lines were juuuuuust long enough to get the new springs in with some persuasion. (Longer hoses will be put in soon.)
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
thats why you rope the springs down.
load up the corner, that compresses the spring
with telstra rope (wll~180kg single line) make 4 loops around convenient coils of the spring and cinch it down. do that on both sides of the spring then jack the chassis up..
the bits of rope will buy you a couple of inches.
to compress the new spring prior to insertion.
I use a 6t press but a decent base plate and hydraulic jack under the back of front (depending on which is flattest and heaviest) of a vehicle will work just as well. then rope down again.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Rope and not chain? I'm not sure my knot-tying is up to it, but I follow you now.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
you could use chain but hooking it up safely would be a bugger.
Remember to thread the rope before you start to compress (it'll take you a couple of goes to position the rope where it wont get caught) simply take at least 4 turns (giving you 8 lengths of rope doing the work,) and then wrap the ends around the middle of the rope turns and tie off in a reef knot.
if you dont have telstra rope (6mm stuff) you can work out your minimum number of turns by doing
((Vehicle GVM*2)/4)/(rope strength)= (total turns of rope)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I really think that chains and ropes are much more dangerous than a spring compressor. They are not that expensive.
Fingers come of second best to a spring letting go as you are trying to force it in.
Regards Philip A
Ok I removed the springs today without using any kind of spring compressor. They are King springs.
Getting the damn shocks undone was a right p ric k. Ended up using a ratchet strap twice around the shock tube and cranking it up tight....
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That's funny - I took out a rear spring today to put isolators on the top and bottom to even out the back end. I had to use a compressor to save the brake line. One thing I learned was that a pair of compressors can only reach so far, so you still have a bit of uncompressed spring that sticks out. I think with Dave's Telstra rope method you'd be able to tie up more of the spring, but I didn't have any of it handy!
In the end, I put the spring in my hydraulic press and squished it a bit more and wound up the compressors. That did the trick.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
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