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Thread: Power steering belt..

  1. #1
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    Power steering belt..

    My power steering pump drive belt derailed today on my '89 3.5 RRC.

    I am trying to follow the manual to reseat it and adjust.
    The manual (screen shot attached) says step 3 "Loosen the 2 nuts at the side of the pump to allow the pump to be pivoted"

    Q1. I assume the 1st nut is the one shown at the front of the pump, is the 2nd Nut the one at the rear under/behind the distributor?...
    Q2. if so how in the hell am I meant to get a spanner on it and loosen it??
    Q3. Step 4 says "loosen the bolt securing the pump lower bracket" .. this bolt is missing... obviously the reason why it threw the belt in the first place.... my question is.. can anyone tell me weher to find a parts list.. or otherwise tell me what this bolt is?...

    Being a RRC newbie.. I am not even sure whether they are metric or imperial fasteners??
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  2. #2
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    The nuts should be 9/16 A/F spanner size, bolt threads 3/8 inch UNF, although for the adjuster any bolt around 10mm will do if you have the matching nut. If you loosen the front nut you may be able to swing the pump with a little force. The rear nut is in an amazingly stupid spot, I think you may get slightly better access with the cap off the dissy, then use a slim ring spanner.

  3. #3
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    On my 92 there is a captive nut behind the adjuster strap, which I believe is 3/8UNF, so a 3/8 UNF bolt is fine. You can easily get them from a "round display" at any Repco or Supercheap if they have bothered to refill the stand.
    The rear nut is a doozy, but you only have to release it maybe a quarter turn, so that the pump can pivot.

    If you have a screw tension adjustment on your alternator , once you have the PS belt back on, you can set up the tension by tensioning up the alternator with the PS pump loose.

    Regards Philip A
    Last edited by PhilipA; 5th June 2012 at 06:46 PM. Reason: more info

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    On my 92 there is a captive nut behind the adjuster strap, which I believe is 3/8UNF, so a 3/8 UNF bolt is fine. You can easily get them from a "round display" at any Repco or Supercheap if they have bothered to refill the stand.
    The rear nut is a doozy, but you only have to release it maybe a quarter turn, so that the pump can pivot.

    If you have a screw tension adjustment on your alternator , once you have the PS belt back on, you can set up the tension by tensioning up the alternator with the PS pump loose.

    Regards Philip A
    Thanks for the replies guys, yes mine has a captive nut on the PS Pump adjuster strap as well, so I guess I better find some imperial fasteners.

    That rear nut is really driving me crazy.. I think I will have to unplug the spark plug leads and remove the dizzy to get at it?.. even then I need a ring spanner with a real thin wall?

    Are all fasteners on my 89 imperial.. or are there some metric in it as well?

  5. #5
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    Are all fasteners on my 89 imperial.. or are there some metric in it as well?
    Well its sometimes hard to know which is which as 9/16 is close to 16MM etc. The bigger the nut the less the difference eg 27MM fits the wheel nuts but I think they are 11/8 UNF or C or whatever.( Actually I just remembered that wheel nuts are Metric and have been since 1977-the only consistent thing)

    I think the general rule of thumb is that if it is a bit that has been on Range Rovers for a while eg the steering box mounts it is Imperial.

    If it is a new bit to that model eg the Borg Warner transfer case or anti roll bars it is metric, but not always!!.
    Metrinch spanners are good where you have a good enough swing angle!
    Adds to the excitement.
    Regards Philip A
    Last edited by PhilipA; 6th June 2012 at 06:46 PM. Reason: more info

  6. #6
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    9/16" is close to 14mm, but I keep both at hand because sometimes 14mm is too tight and sometimes 9/16 is too loose.

    Shorter metric: Anything that screws directly into the head and block castings is imperial, anything that later housings added, e.g plenum bolts, fuel injector hold downs, is metric.

    I woul still try swinging the pump without loosening the back nut, hey it went loose by itself remember.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    9/16"

    I woul still try swinging the pump without loosening the back nut, hey it went loose by itself remember.

    Good point it's gotta be easier than removing the dizzy cap. Will check it out in the weekend, its been too cold to work in the garage in the evening here this last few days, we had 6" (imperial measure) of snow here yesterday!

    Sent from my TF201 using Tapatalk 2

  8. #8
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    well it seems mine was Metric, 8mm?
    I had to take the spark plug leads of the left bank and remove the dizzy cap so I could loosen the rear nut on the compressor pump.
    Anyway all fixed now....onto the next problem!!

  9. #9
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    Well there you go!
    I will have to try a metric spanner on it next time. LOL
    Regards Philip A

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