Thread: 3 or 4" lift wanted for my Classic 89

Heres the advice...

LIFT - changes static suspension position (eg. where it sits normally)

It DOESN'T change the range of articulation

So if it RUBs at current static height, it (assuming you dont stiffen rate - which reduces flex) it WILL rub if lifted again.

A mate of mine has a rangy that sits a lot higher than mine. He has a bodylift in his and 35s but doesn't rub anywhere he has 80 series cruiser bumpstops on the rear. It flexes a lot more than mine. Unfortunately for me all suspension mods done prior to purchase and cannot find any part numbers on coils. His hubs have been rolled and slotted for castor correction. If I knew what was done to his I would do the same.

You've answered your own question...

80 series bump stops...

He cant flex UP as much as you can, but sounds like he has more down travel...

If you space the bump stops out a little you can stop the rubbing..

Have you thought about cutting the guards?

With 2" body lift you should be able to clear the 35s easy with the guards cut.

So start cutting.

I wouldnt lift it any more. My rangie had a 5 inch lift when I got it and it handle like a pig and was really ass puckering on side slopes. I got rid of the spacers and now its about a 2.5 inch lift and its much more stable and actually better off road. Low is the go these days....

Yes the guards are cut with the flares from LRA. I did own a series one disco that had 3" suspension and 2" body lift that cleared the same tyers i'm running now. It floated a little bit like a boat but it wasn't as bad as some yotas n ****ans. Don't care about onroad handling ability as i have another car for everything else as this is a weekend thing in the build process. next things to do is get my ashcroft lockers and 4.37 gears into the diff centres

If you find a kings sparings dealer they will make you a set of custom springs, i had a set made for mine but it was just way too high and scary at speed, ive since dropped to about 2.5-3" and it drives much better