Are the flame traps in the breathers blocked or the airway if carbies and causing pressure to build?
Been trying to stop, or at least slow up a few of the leaks on the rangie.
The other wek it started to bleed quite badly, to the point that i stopped driving it. After a wash and drive, i decided it may be leaking out the end seals on the inlet manifold. Oil under the manifold, dripping down the front and rear of the block. P/S pump, suction hose and maybe the pressure hose also leaks a bit.
Replaced the inlet manifold gasket/seals and still leaks. Not as bad, no oil from rear of the block, but still some oil sitting on the manifold gasket, pooling on top of the timing cover and dripping down the front.
Timing cover gasket???? Fan blowing oil up onto the valley gasket??? No leaks stitting there at idle after a good wash (except p/s). Any other possible leak points???
As i will have to order parts for next weekend, how long do the timing chains hold in there for? Motor was rebuilt around 150k ago, worth ordering a new one for it before i pull it down?
P/S leaks.........its fitted with the cast Eaton pump. Spare car has the tin cover pump. Is one of these type of pumps better than the other? I will remove and reseal one of these, replace all hoses and swap the non leaking p/s box from the parts car.
Cheers
Rick
Are the flame traps in the breathers blocked or the airway if carbies and causing pressure to build?
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Get a 3/16 drill (put a bit of grease on it to catch the crap) and make sure you clean out the flame trap hose spigots on the carbies. Then go to 1/4 inch.
My hoses, pipes and flame traps were completely blocked by some idiot using Wynes stop leak.
And like the other guy said the flame traps.
My experience is the rocker cover gaskets go hard and leak over time.
First you gotta check if the engine is breathing- should be light vacuum when you try to open the oil cap.
Have you checked the distributor oring? It will pool ontop of the timing case when that leaks.
Just clean it really really well. Run it and look where it's coming from. P/S leaks can be from the pump itself, or more probably it is the seal for the supply line. There is a square section o-ring and a felt washer which seals the banjo fitting. Pretty poxy idea so you can't expect much from it- I used some silicone sealant type stuff to seal the o-ring and its held up very well (i replaced it too).
I'm quite proud to say my RR doesn't leak engine oil. For how long, who knows.
Yup, I've also got a new pump and seals and it leaks like mad from that stupid banjo fitting. I should take an old pump to a hydraulics place and see if they can do something better.
Back to the original poster - did you mean that your engine was rebuilt 150,000km ago? Because you'll need a new camshaft if it was that long ago.
At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.
Yes, rebuilt 150,000km ago.
Flame trap cleaned, new breather element in L/H rocker cover, its also EFI. The breather appeared to have some sort of sintered bronze breather in the tube that goes into the rocker cover, is this right??
Rocker cover gaskets have a slight weep on the outter edge on one side, no oil on the inside (manifold) side.
Going to replace the dissy o-ring before i rip the timing cover off.
P/S pump leaks from shaft, from where the sustion hose joins the pipe but not the banjo fitting.
Is it possible that i fitted the gasket clamps the wrong way around? Manual said they are different but they both looked the same to me. Its not leaking at the front but the rear is somewhat harder to see.
The sintered bronze thing sounds more like a plug. The flame trap is all you should have connected to the hose to the tee piece at the front left of the engine. There should be free passage to the throttle inlet. The tee should have a 1.5mm restrictor direct to the inlet manifold vacuum.
Gasket clamps are interchangeable front and rear.
Ok, hose from flame trap goes direct to the tube pressed into the throttle body, no tee.
Put a new o-ring on the dissy and.......only oil leak left is from the P/S pump. The o-ring had not gone hard but had next to no crush on it. Still cant believe so much oil was getting past it. Size was BS215 in viton if anyone is interested.
Tackle the P/S pump. hoses and box next.
The tee piece and restrictor jet are important to prevent fumes being drawn through the IAC (stepper) motor, eventually clagging it up. Good thing you got an o-ring for the dissy, I have seen some people cut paper gaskets for under the dissy too, similar to old Holden red motors.
You can make your own tee, like:
remembering the restrictor jet to the manifold is important.
Power steering box and pump are fun. I rebuilt my box for $110 and the pump for $40 (only took about 3 hours to do the box, and a couple to do the pump)
Not sure if you will have the same issue, but to remove the p/s pump, i had to take out the dizzy... And to get the box out, I had to take off the oil filter and oil pressure sensor...
Hoses were fine, but the leaking pump and box made me think otherwise until a good degreasing clarified things.![]()
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