Thread: diff upgrade options/opinions

Originally Posted by Red90

The OP is talking about an 83 RR, which has the earlier, larger CV joints. Keith's stuff was only for the later model axles.

Of course, he no longer sells the 24 spline CV package..

Not unless he upgrades to aeu2522 cv's as i've done.

Originally Posted by rick130

Dead easy to take 20mm off the bottom of a Sals without really trying

why?

Archimedes once said "Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to rest it and I shall move the world" because he had never heard of the 8HA salsbury diff. The modern day landy equivelent is "never mind the lever and the pivot, Give me an 8HA, a turbo'd suzi to push it and the planet will move out of my way"

Originally Posted by Vern

Not unless he upgrades to aeu2522 cv's as i've done.

The early RR CV joints are just as strong as the AEU2522, so there is no point. You are now just talking about halfshafts which are sold by many vendors.

The only company making stronger early style CV joints currently is Ashcroft.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

why?

[snip]

Rocks/sandstone Dave, rocks and/or sandstone.

Even a 'suzi can't grind rock away, let alone a poor little 3.5 V8 or a Tdi

Originally Posted by rick130

Rocks/sandstone Dave, rocks and/or sandstone.

Even a 'suzi can't grind rock away, let alone a poor little 3.5 V8 or a Tdi

Sure it can....

(Clearly I need to add an exaggeration font to my sarcasm font wish list)

Originally Posted by Red90

The early RR CV joints are just as strong as the AEU2522, so there is no point. You are now just talking about halfshafts which are sold by many vendors.

The only company making stronger early style CV joints currently is Ashcroft.

So what your saying is keith DOES do axles for an 83 Rangie.

I have a Sals 8ha in my Def 110. Great diff but it is my personal opinon they have no place in a RR.

With some research you can build a bloody strong Rover diff for your application....will it stand up to 37's 500hp and rock bouncing, probably not.

The rear housing is easy enough to strengthen. Then get Ashcroft air locker, Ashcroft HD R&P and some Hi-Tough Eng. axle shafts....in reality you probably dont even need to strengthen the rear housing.

Regarding the front, If your RR cv's are in good condition I would stick with them. You can either upgrade the stub shaft (again Hi-Tough do these) or keep the OEM as a fuse. (easy enough to fix) Fill with same locker axle combo as rear and you will be a smiling chap

Originally Posted by tebone

I would rather have a lack of clearance with the 110 defender diff than blowning up crown wheel and pinions all the time especially running larger tyres.

Lockers strengthen the spider gear set up but the weak point is the crown wheel and pinion. I pegged the crown wheel on my front diff (installed a thurst plate agianst the crown wheel so it wouldn't flex under heavy load which is the problem).

If you handy in the shed one option is pegging the crown wheel and installing a locker to strengthen the spider gear setup.

I paid $750 for the defender rear and cost me $50 to shorten the tail shaft. This is the way to go if you have large tyres and don't mine using the accelerator.

depends what your after and what wheeling you do, i was out last weekned at neerim and was diffing out with rover diffs and 36's, so clearance has its upsides.

IMO a pegged rover diff with a locker would give you the best of both worlds, strength and clearance.

has anyone had a pegged rover diff let go??