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Thread: 1992 RRC Central locking/starting issue

  1. 17th October 2012, 02:24 PM #1
    Maverick_007's Avatar
    Maverick_007
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    1992 RRC Central locking/starting issue

    Hi all,

    This issue only started yesterday AFTER having already been out driving, locking, unlocking the car.
    Came home, turned the car off, went to lock it... Nothing.
    Opened the door, tried to start it... Nothing.
    After looking through, I found the fuse for the locking was blown.
    After replacing it, vehicle started fine.
    So... I turned it off, locked it, went to unlock it... Nothing
    I replaced the fuse again, and from inside the car, watched what happened.
    Starting the car, running the car, locking the car, all fine.
    BUT, when I unlock the car, the fuse blows.
    Same occurs whether it is with the remote unlock or if the key is used in the door lock.

    What could be the reason for this to start happening all of a sudden?
    Im guessing a short, but Im not sure where to start looking.
    Also, my horn has stopped working... Same issue with not knowing where to start looking.

    Any help/suggestions/advice would be much appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Evo
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  2. 17th October 2012, 02:33 PM #2
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    Alex
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    Perhaps where the CL wires run out the door and into the firewall? Have had this happen to me before when the rubber conduit splits and the wires rub every time you open the door.

    Tracing with a multimeter by unplugging section by section is likely to find it or at least narrow it down as well.
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  3. 17th October 2012, 02:40 PM #3
    PhilipA
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    I would say you have a dead short through one of the door solonoids.

    Disconnect the driver's door solonoid first and if it is not that do the others in turn.

    Also check wher ethe wiring goes through the front of each door. This would be a prime spot for a short.

    regards Philip A
    Last edited by PhilipA; 17th October 2012 at 03:29 PM. Reason: more info
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  4. 17th October 2012, 03:50 PM #4
    superquag
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    So,,, it only blows the fuse when unlocking ?
    Start with the driver's door, as it gets the most use. Then LH door. Possibly the internal linkages are stiff which is causing the actuators to work harder/hotter and have a shorter life. - They're generally agreed as being on the weaker side of "acceptable"...

    (Does your tailgate also lock/unlock with the doors ? )

    I have a very low opinion on the thickness / quality of LR wiring, so a short to earth is more than possible. I'm not alone in this !

    Test lamps are easier to use than a multimeter.

    Do you need a supply of fuses ? :-)
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  5. 17th October 2012, 05:56 PM #5
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    POD
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    Another possibility- the master actuator in the driver's door has a solid-state timer built into it. This is because the actuators are motors, not solenoids, so when you lock or unlock the timer cuts the current to the other doors after about 1 second. I had a 97 discovery in which the timer circuit had failed resulting in the other actuators receiving continuous current, so the motors in them had all burnt out. You may have a stuffed timer and a fuse that is saving your actuator motors.
    Use a test lamp to check that power to the door actuators cuts off 1 second after locking and unlocking.
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