what to check - going back to air from coils

parts turned up today.

found a bearing kit, output shaft and chain waiting. (already have new VC)

thinking i will take it to a landie specialist to put bearing kit through. aside from my questionable skills i don't have anywhere to do it without unwanted dirt and dust potentially finding their way in.

magsy - good luck with it. i'm still umming and ahhing whether to go straight back to air or put some boge shockers in to match the coils as an interim. priced them up from karcraft will only be around $240 for all 4 delivered.

other option is put airbags back in, get some shockers for the airbags then go with a manual inflate system till the compressor and electronics are back in working order.

i noted earlier that i've never been in a rangie with EAS working. most reports i've read of the P38 are that ride with EAS is a bit harsh (unless the arnotts bags have been retrofitted). from those that have the working EAS in a classic can you give a bit of an insight into how it compares to riding just on coils or more importantly if you are happy with it? i find a lot of reviews where people prefer the ride on coils and it is putting a question mark in my mind. the **** factor will be high with EAS but will the ride be worth it?

thanks,
brett.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pibby

...... i find a lot of reviews where people prefer the ride on coils and it is putting a question mark in my mind. the **** factor will be high with EAS but will the ride be worth it?

thanks,
brett.

---

My own recollections are... the '88 Classic on coils and Firestone blue(?) bags in the rear coils - around 12 to 16 psi for load - has a softer, more floaty ride than my '95 Classic on Arnotts bags. I like soft, floaty ride as my boy-racer days are FAR behind me! :o

But converting to springs is not quite as good as 'original' as you'll not have the Boge Ride Leveller. - You may need / want little blue bags inside the rear to level the car when loaded or towing.

Springs will slowly sag over the years..., but are predictable. Bags will leak at random times, even from new, occasionally. Be happy with 5 to 10 years. Every join in the air-line is a potential leak... Every valve in the EAS Black Box is a potential slow leak. Or fast one... Slow leaks kill the compressor, which is is adequate if everything else is perfect. - Underbuilt and short-lived and expen$ive if it has to deal with constant leaks...

But the car handles better at high speed (automatically lowers itself) and being able to lift up over the ruff stuff is useful too. The lowered "Access" mode is pretty useless, as women will never wait for it to do its thing, and invariably open their door... stopping all movement. :mad:

The WOW factor is significant to some...

More confused ? :twisted::twisted::twisted:

:p

If you like the odd trip over 100km/h you'll appreciate the air springs.

Off road all day, sprint down the blacktop by night and no centre of gravity problems.

Yes it is harsh but it extends the practicality of the vehicle.

Want a really nice ride, get an s-class Mercedes. You'll need a G wagen as well.

My vogue lse 94 is on its third compressor rebuild (since I've had it) and second set of air springs and has done 310k.

Usually warms up to the task most mornings of rising off the bump stops!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MICHELINXMS244

My vogue lse 94 is on its third compressor rebuild (since I've had it) and second set of air springs and has done 310k.

Usually warms up to the task most mornings of rising off the bump stops!

---

... I think you may have a leak or two...:o:o:o:o

No doubt. The valve block is original. I should really have it stripped.

... when you put those tiny O-rings on the valves,,, take great care ..... The slightest 'roll' or twist will guarantee a slooow leak...

Don't ask how I know !:mad:

Investing in some quality hooks & picks (for O rings) is worthwhile as it makes handling them easier.

Soapy water or Windex in a bottle works ok, but bubble solution lasts longer, better for tiny & slow leakes..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by pibby

i noted earlier that i've never been in a rangie with EAS working. most reports i've read of the P38 are that ride with EAS is a bit harsh (unless the arnotts bags have been retrofitted). from those that have the working EAS in a classic can you give a bit of an insight into how it compares to riding just on coils or more importantly if you are happy with it? i find a lot of reviews where people prefer the ride on coils and it is putting a question mark in my mind. the **** factor will be high with EAS but will the ride be worth it?

thanks,
brett.

---

G`day Brett ,

there`s more to EAS than ride .

We have one with air and one on coils , the ride from both is very similar .

The one on air is longer wheel base , the one on coils has heavier coils than std and still has the load leveller .

I`d suggest neither ride as well as a std RR on std coils but neither have the body roll of std and i don`t think the torsion bars on later ones aid the ride quality other than roll .

The one on coils rides at a very similar height to the air one on high setting .

It`s possible the the rough ride that you mention is because the ride settings are not right and the ride is due to hitting the bump stops on highway setting .


I think it all depends on what the use will be , with EAS it doesn`t matter how it`s loaded because it compensates , i don`t much like going through water above the wheel arch height with the EAS , always worry it may drop and drown , never has .

The heavy coils are asked to tow/carry weight at times , like beasts in a trailer , when it stops the back sags , when it get going the leveller lifts the back to normal ride height .

If the heavy coils didn`t serve a purpose for me , i would go back to the soft std coils with the leveller on that one .

I would never convert the EAS one to coils because of all the other things that EAS does , i would and have considered fitting a manual air setup on the one with coils though .

Peter

When I bought my Event Horizon, the EAS / pump was disconnected, and the airbags inflated with Schraeder (tyre) valves. - The tank was used as a mobile air-supply.

I spent the $$$$$$ on new airbags, rebuilt the compressor (reason for previous owner going 'manual') and at the same time, installed a complete 'EAS- Rescue'.

The usual approach is to put a T piece in each line, and install a Schraeder valve. This allows a servo-fill of each bag.

But if the fault in the valve-body is mechanical instead of electrical, - You're sutffed. So I put an in-line valve between the T and Valve body, thus totally isolating each bag from the (leaky) electric valves.

I like the WOW factor, plus the ability to lift right up for whatever.

Misbehaving sensors are NOT liked...

I added the switch mod Superquag has also installed under the driver's seat to disable the EAS ECU on the fly as mine often logs a front right sensor out of range fault at speed which is completely spurious. And you don't want bump stop default if you can avoid it. I then reset with my eas kicker at leisure...

Without this mod any electrical gremlin will bump stop the car pronto.

Gets tedious. So highly recommended.