what to check - going back to air from coils

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Originally Posted by pibby

do i have to take the cross member off and the auto mount on the passenger side off to try and drop the BW lower?

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Unfortunately yes you do, if memory serves there is not enough room between the rear of the transfer case and the vertical-ish part of the floor pan to slide the transfer off the input splines otherwise. If you drop the cross member down so that the top holes in the member are bolted to the bottom holes in the chassis, you can then support the transmission with blocks on the cross member, saves you a jack and allows the car to be moved while the transfer is out. Loosen the engine mount nuts before dropping the back end of the transfer, otherwise you might twist the rubber mounts too much. Keep an eye on hoses too.

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Originally Posted by superquag

Pod, just to clarify, - in case I'm wrong....

- you mean the (middle) splines that are turned by the REAR output end of the Centre-Diff, that also directly drives the REAR axle. - the front end of this little shaft goes into the VC and is connected to the inner-plates. - The Outer plates are fixed to the VC body, which is solidly connected to the FRONT output of the Centre-Diff, and also drives the FRONT axle.

Because the drive to the front from the Centre-diff is so SOLID, (Casing of the VC driven by big splines) this connection never breaks. The tiny shaft that joins the VC to the rear of centre-diff carries twice the load with half the metal... Naturally it WILL wear and break.

That's the way I interpret the RAVE drawings...

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There's no way my post-night-shift brain is going to remember the details of the relationship between the centre diff, the viscous coupling and the output shaft at present (I'm lucky if I can put my pants on the right way after nightshift); to put it as simply as I can manage- the output shaft has three sets of splines. One end is splined to the rear drive flange, which is secured to the shaft with a nut. The other end is splined to the viscous coupling. The middle splines go into the inner part of the centre diff. It is the middle set of splines that fail, resulting in the loss of all drive. The shaft can be withdrawn complete with the rear output housing with the transfer still in the vehicle. I posted on this a year or two ago when mine failed, and about the same time PhilipA (I think) posted a photo of the shaft with stripped splines.
Looking at my previous post, I got front and rear mixed up; the VC is of course behind the front drive flange.

Yep, were saying the same thing...

Understand Night shift... Over 35 years of it. (Newspapers)

Remember PhilipA's terrifying picture...

Reckon if you had a front diff locker, and/or spent most of your miles on-road, cutting off the front spline section would turn your BW into an 'unlocked-only' LT230. VC would have no effect for good or bad.

I'm tempted...:twisted:

spot on POD, loosened engine mounts, dropped crossmember down, removed sway bar as car has genie headers and the ends were hitting and got heaps of clearance to slide BW off. wish it was as quick and comfortable to do as it is to type it though.

the output shaft looks quite knackered much like photos of philipA and mike on this site. there is play in the bearings in the VC housing and also the bearings thorugh which the output shaft passes thorugh in the photos. so i think it's a no brainer to get a bearing kit for it such as :

Ashcroft Transmissions - RRC rebuild kit

i will also get the output shaft :

Ashcroft Transmissions - FTC 657

i am really crossing my fingers i don't have to get another chain. i can see the slightest scrape on the housing. if i pull the chain there is a bit of slack as per my photo though have seen much more in other peoples' photos. if i pull the chain and hold the sprocket where the output shaft goes through so the play in the bearing is eliminated then most of the slack in the chain is eliminated. i had not heard any of the banging noises people experience with a worn chain to date.

i have already got a new VC.

with a new set of bearings does it look like i can get away without a new chain as it will definitely break my bank. i'm happy to go back in in a year or two to fix when some funds have arrived.

thoughts anyone, especially those with crystal balls?

is replacing the bearings a difficult job? i'm tossing up whether to buy a puller and giving it a go or taking it in to a Land Rover shop, say Peninsula Rangie or the like to get them to do it. at least it will be done properly. i can then do the dumb stuff of putting the box back in the car.

well haven't even had time to scratch myself. i want to get car back onto air but have to get it back on road and registered first as it's now out of rego.

now thinking two part attack. springs on rear have a purple stripe. springs on front have a green stripe. maybe if i just put some shocks back in (has bilstein on now but need replacing for roadworthy) it will buy me time to recommission the air. am mainly after comfortable ride, not being loaded up for big trips.

had a measure of rear bumpstop clearance and it was around 11 or 12 cm. think the front was around 8 or 9 cm.

read a post somewhere on here from think it was philipA saying for best ride stick with the original boge or armstrong. subconsciously thinking putting billies on might be a bit firm for what i am after. given this vehicle had air originally do i just source the boge/armstrong which are listed for coil sprung classics?

thanks,
brett.

need to get off my ... and order the parts for the transfer case. anyone have an opinion on degree of difficulty for replacing bearings and whether the chain definitely needs replacing?

If you're planning on reinstating the EAS you may be better off getting the EAS-specific shockers, apparently the valving is quite different.
I didn't have any trouble replacing bearings in my transfer, used mild heat to slip them on and off. Your chain looks a pretty slack to me but I'm no expert on that one. I bought an el-cheapo chain from Island 4x4 and it did not fit! The mongrel fobbed me off when I complained. My original chain went back in but yours looks a fair bit sloppier in the pic.

gday all, i have a 93 {may built} lse on coils also. all the parts are on the vehicle to change over back too air later. {height arms- sensors are not on vehicle, don't know where they are.} i am also considering changing over to air next year also.,..... keep us posted on how you go with the change over. cheers , mark.

Price out the height sensors before you get too enthusiastic... they wear out, leak or break. - and are in demand on the s/h market, which is where your PO may have sent them...:o

You might look at building a manually controlled system. - but you'll still need some way of measuring height, and a means of levelling...

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i am really crossing my fingers i don't have to get another chain. i can see
the slightest scrape on the housing

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Bite the bullet and get a new chain.

Regards Philip A

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

Bite the bullet and get a new chain.

Regards Philip A

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Bite it gently - seen the price of crowns / caps ??? :p

- and get a new chain...