Reply With Quoteseen both conversions done and 80 series diff are much easier,if you get the chassis mounts they fit strait over the rover chassis and weld,better shaft alignment too almost same as rover were nissan is way off
Master
I don't want to run a locker though, I'm of the mindset that a locker is "cheating". I just like the satisfaction of achieving something without a locker. If I get stuck, I'm not ashamed to get recovered. And going that way is more expensive. I don't want to spend $2K+ strengthening Landrover axles when the GQ stuff is stronger anyway.Originally Posted by benji
I'm not sure I get what you mean. All the lines from the M/C are after the booster, there are two lines on each front caliper, one for each piston, aren't these running the same pressure to apply even force to both pads? I suppose I could just block one line off on each side.
I'm not a purist, I don't mind having a hybrid. Even better that I built it myself. I also don't want to re-invent the wheel either, hence the questions in the first place. I just wanted to know what people had done in their own conversions so I didn't have to spend time on figuring it out myself.
In another thread I found one anser about the rear A frame connection to the diff. It was done the way I was thinking of doing it anyway by welding it on top of the diff centre. Now just to work out the drive shaft and brakes.
Fossicker
seen both conversions done and 80 series diff are much easier,if you get the chassis mounts they fit strait over the rover chassis and weld,better shaft alignment too almost same as rover were nissan is way off
Wizard
Brakes are easy. Just block of the extra pipes. Not sure if this is the best way to go as my brakes were worse running the GQ's. Could be worth seeing if you can fit a Nissan booster and master cylinder.
2004 Black Range Rover L322 Diesel
Master
That was what I initially had in mind. Not hard to adapt a shaft from the brake pedal to the booster I wouldn't think.
Master
The rangie twin line setup to the front calipers isn't as easy as that. The pistons are on completely different circuits so you'll mess up your brake bias and therefore have crap braking (lots of rear no front). The reason they did this is that if you had a leak in the primary or secondary circuit you would still have front and rear brakes, opposed to just front, just rear, just left or just right.
Maybe try adapt a gq booster and MC..unless you don't like stopping
OldBushie
Plenty have blocked the secondary line, no problemThe rangie twin line setup to the front calipers isn't as easy as that. The pistons are on completely different circuits so you'll mess up your brake bias and therefore have crap braking (lots of rear no front). The reason they did this is that if you had a leak in the primary or secondary circuit you would still have front and rear brakes, opposed to just front, just rear, just left or just right.
Maybe try adapt a gq booster and MC..unless you don't like stopping
Gq booster/master fits, just make an adaptor
Probably easy just to use disco/ late rr master
Gq has heaps better brakes, larger pistons in calipers
Master
Late RR as in 94? I have the 94 Vogue here as well, do you mean that m/cyl or a later one still?
Master
Well, picked up the diffs today. Got everything including calipers and steering gear. Now the fun begins.
Swaggie
Keep us all up to date, I love this stuff.
Cheers
Slunnie
~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~
Master
Got all the old brackets cut off the Patrol diffs, took the brackets of the original diffs and the rear diff is sitting in place ready to be welded. Had to remove the damper off the A frame though as it fouled on the diff centre, used the ball joint off a later model without the damper. A couple of pictures so far.
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