Thread: Patrol Diffs

A long time ago. Last millenium in fact, some mates and i built a snot box for off road and had a similar problem. It was easily overcome by moving the pumpkin over. Shorten one side, lengthen the other. Dont forget to brace it. Internally sleeving it is strongest. Drag guys have been modding diffs this way for ever.
Peice of **** if you have access to a machine shop as you do.

hope this helps
R2

Originally Posted by R2D2

A long time ago. Last millenium in fact, some mates and i built a snot box for off road and had a similar problem. It was easily overcome by moving the pumpkin over. Shorten one side, lengthen the other. Dont forget to brace it. Internally sleeving it is strongest. Drag guys have been modding diffs this way for ever.
Peice of **** if you have access to a machine shop as you do.

hope this helps
R2

? not many machine shops have indexing heads for cutting spline and the gear for hardening stuff

Its actually a big job

The 94 vogue I have doesn't have the load leveler, just a sway bar so I'm using the ball joint out of that, it doesn't have the bit that hangs down to mount the leveler. I figure the 80 series coils in the rear will be load leveling enough.

The original master cyl runs two circuits, one for front (one pair pistons per side) and rear. The other circuit just runs the other pair of front pistons/side.

You could re-route stuff so one circuit ran front and the other ran rear. If there's a fluid loss in the primary (F&R) circuit the master cyl piston pushed further in and there's a step down which will allow the plunger on the warning light switch to activate. If there's an issue on the primary circuit, once rectified you need to reset the master cylinder piston by unscrewing the switch just enough to let the piston pop back under its spring load.

I'd run the rears off the primary circuit, so of there's an issue you still have fronts and get the warning light, I've only ever had an issue on the rear when I've snagged a hose with a branch. The front hoses are more out of the way.

From what I can see, out of the M/C, we have 4 outlets. Two go to one side on the front, one goes to the other side on the front, and the 4th one goes into a brake proportioning valve that has one of it's outlets going to the rear, and the other going to the other side front.

If I was to run the outlets off the M/C that ran to one front caliper to each side on the Patrol calipers, blank off the single line front and the front that comes out of the proportioning valve, would that work? That way I have 3 outlets from the M/C. One each to the fronts and one to the back through the valve.

Originally Posted by Not_An_Abba_Fan

From what I can see, out of the M/C, we have 4 outlets. Two go to one side on the front, one goes to the other side on the front, and the 4th one goes into a brake proportioning valve that has one of it's outlets going to the rear, and the other going to the other side front.

If I was to run the outlets off the M/C that ran to one front caliper to each side on the Patrol calipers, blank off the single line front and the front that comes out of the proportioning valve, would that work? That way I have 3 outlets from the M/C. One each to the fronts and one to the back through the valve.

One MC port split to each front caliper, other MC port to the PR valve for the back brakes, you'll need to block one port in the PR valve.

Double Post.

I have 4 ports on the MC and 5 brake lines. Rough sketch attached the way it is, and the proposed blanking.