Thread: Patrol Diffs

I have the same ones from the same place. I didn't notice a great improvement in braking, but the old ones had cracks on the outsides and weren't long for this world. The new ones were a great price, and should last for a very long time.

Seriously brakes were the least of my worries when I had GQ diffs on my old rangie. Good luck trying to get rid of the shocking vibrations from the rear driveshaft. Felt like the wheels were about to fall off at speed Have you seen the angle

Originally Posted by Camo

Seriously brakes were the least of my worries when I had GQ diffs on my old rangie. Good luck trying to get rid of the shocking vibrations from the rear driveshaft. Felt like the wheels were about to fall off at speed Have you seen the angle

A double-double-cardan shaft (DC joint at each end) should do it. If you can fit one in length-wise. A double CV shaft may be an option.

With single universals it could probably be made to run smoothly, but you'd have no margin for error or suspension motion.

Originally Posted by Dougal

IMO braided stainless lines are the brake equivalent of pod filters. Poorer function than most stock setups, less damage tolerant and more likely to damage other parts.

I disagree Dougal.

Proper SS braided hose, eg. Earls, Goodridge, Aeroquip -2 and -3 stainless braided teflon hose has less swell under pressure than any standard rubber/fabric reinforced road going brake hose, that's why they are used in aircraft and all motorsport applications.

SS braided hoses are legal in Oz if made by a certified builder.
The ends are crimped, aircraft style reusable olive, nipple and barb fittings are technically illegal, and a rubber 'shield' is fitted on/near the fitting to prevent kinking during the whip test.

I've had them fitted to the Deefer for ten years now.
Rubbed one line through on a radius arm though

Now have polyester coated hose and plastic spiral wound 'wire' around the outside for better security from 'stuff'.

Originally Posted by Dougal

A double-double-cardan shaft (DC joint at each end) should do it. If you can fit one in length-wise. A double CV shaft may be an option.

With single universals it could probably be made to run smoothly, but you'd have no margin for error or suspension motion.

Pretty sure Hardy Spicer here supply a DC setup to specifically fix this.

TW in the US can do it too.

Originally Posted by rick130

Pretty sure Hardy Spicer here supply a DC setup to specifically fix this.

TW in the US can do it too.

Yer 1k later. Could just buy HD rover axles for that. I don't get it.

I tried 3 types of driveshafts on mine. I'm not sure a twin DC shaft could work. I had a single DC shaft made and the DC end was at its max already. Would only get worse if you had twin DC. Might be able to get a high angle DC.. not sure. I gave up trying after spending so much money.

Rover HD axles, steering and lockers are cheap these days compared to when I had my GQ conversion done. Can safely put 35's on and not worry about breakage (pending driving style of coarse)

My brakes were mushy.. worse than the rover ones. Didn't really care though. Car was crap to drive until I put an 80 series rear in it.

Originally Posted by rick130

I disagree Dougal.

Proper SS braided hose, eg. Earls, Goodridge, Aeroquip -2 and -3 stainless braided teflon hose has less swell under pressure than any standard rubber/fabric reinforced road going brake hose, that's why they are used in aircraft and all motorsport applications.

The fabric braiding in my bike brake lines are kevlar. This is about 50% stiffer on a volume basis than stainless but also gets an anti-chaff cover. I have a goodridge hose set for one of my bikes that I bought about 5 years ago (factory hose too short). I still haven't installed it.
On my bike brakes the lever is firm but I can still squeeze it into the grip. Visually you can see the caliper spread, the lever blade flex and the lever body flex.
Hose flex is such a small factor that I'm not worried about it at all. I am worried about the goodridge hose eating the frame and fork crowns. Yes it has a clear protective cover, but the shimano/grimeca/xsiv brakes did some awful damage back in the day.

On my rangie I get a firm pedal without the booster, but can push another two inches. Flexing the firewall mainly.
The other point, a system without much compliance can be difficult to modulate for some drivers. Stiffening everything up too much results in a lot of over-braking that some drivers can't get their head around. The whole force based or movement based brake response.

Of course if line compliance was the biggest concern, we could drop line pressure by fitting bigger bore MC and caliper pistons.

Originally Posted by rick130

I've had them fitted to the Deefer for ten years now.
Rubbed one line through on a radius arm though

Now have polyester coated hose and plastic spiral wound 'wire' around the outside for better security from 'stuff'.

Ouch. Yes I specced the spiral wire around the extended brake lines I had built for that reason too. I should get read the hose specs off them one day.

Originally Posted by Camo

Yer 1k later. Could just buy HD rover axles for that. I don't get it.

I tried 3 types of driveshafts on mine. I'm not sure a twin DC shaft could work. I had a single DC shaft made and the DC end was at its max already. Would only get worse if you had twin DC. Might be able to get a high angle DC.. not sure. I gave up trying after spending so much money.

Rover HD axles, steering and lockers are cheap these days compared to when I had my GQ conversion done. Can safely put 35's on and not worry about breakage (pending driving style of coarse)

My brakes were mushy.. worse than the rover ones. Didn't really care though. Car was crap to drive until I put an 80 series rear in it.

Yep, and I wouldn't bother either, I like my shaved Sals, just offering options.