Thread: 93 Hard Dash, Spark Plugs and Fuses

Misfire sorted.

Bee-Utey's BIM024 ignition module (electronic points for you old timers) conversion has solved all of the misfire problems this one had.
It even sounded different driving out the garage, but now revs strongly to the rev limit both in neutral and under load.
Prior it would stumble over 3000rpm free-revving and under 3000rpm under load.

I thought electronics either worked or they didn't. But Lucas ignition modules clearly violate that rule.

Some pictures:

Lucas original ignition module top view of the plate and underside showing the module.



Bosch BIM004 installed top plate and underside view. I only had to drill three holes.
One hole for the other mounting bolt, one for the mounting stub and the last to move the plug bracket over so the wires would reach. Looks stock from the top.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Misfire sorted.

Bee-Utey's BIM024 ignition module (electronic points for you old timers) conversion has solved all of the misfire problems this one had.
It even sounded different driving out the garage, but now revs strongly to the rev limit both in neutral and under load.
Prior it would stumble over 3000rpm free-revving and under 3000rpm under load.

I thought electronics either worked or they didn't. But Lucas ignition modules clearly violate that rule.

Dougal.


I have been reading through your posts as I too have a simular issue.. Hoping to pick your brain at the moment..


the issue I have is that I get a backfire through the air flow meter (sounds like a gasp for air & a cough) then the revs pick back up & all is fine.. Doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. I had recently changed the stepper motor but the problem is still there...


Any info would be great at this time..


Cheers,
Mat.

Sorry Mat, it's a mystery to me.

I just replaced the rear axle ball-joint. It's amazing how little play in the ball (maybe 0.5mm) turns into a clunk and awful feeling rear suspension. It was a 5 day ordeal. Starting saturday and just finishing now. In the absence of heat (fear of melting ABS wires etc) I was relying on jacks, penetrating oil and violence.

Violence didn't work. But what finally did was Wurth Rost-Off Ice which didn't really freeze it's way in, but must have broken the seal and let some oil down into the taper.
First I had to grind the nut open and release it with a cold-chisel.
I tried oil, I tried hammering, I tried using a 3 foot long jimmy bar with the tail wedged into the pocket of the axle mount and a jack under the other end.
Finally today after multiple hammerings and applications of Rost Off it I decided to leave it on the jimmy bar and jack. Not 10 minutes later it gave a pop and let go.

The joint I put in was from the same 97 disco that my other rangies axles came from. Only ~80,000km on it and still good. The driving improvement is immense. No more clonks and the suspension responds to bumps with the "thup, thup" that it should. All the odd behaviour before that had me thinking "possible blown shocks" has gone.

While I had it in the garage I unbolted the rear shocks and videoed the suspension bouncing at it's natural frequency at three different heights (high, std and low profile). I hope to get some axle weights and work out equivalent spring-rates from there.

Weighed today. With me in it (about 75kg) and fuel light almost on. Otherwise empty.

Total vehicle 2080kg.
Front axle only 1040kg.

This is surprising. My 85 with 4BD1T, Isuzu manual gearbox and most of a tank of diesel is 1170 front and 1130kg rear.
I was expecting a lot more weight on the rear and less on the front with the V8.

Got the ECU back today. Main chip is now socketed for fast and easy swapping.

I'm having issues with the chip burning. I can't get it to run with the original BIN file burned to an aftermarket chip. But the original chip works fine in the new socket.

Sorted.

I've got pretty good results with a remap taking ~10% off the injected fuel. I've now got hot idle ~13.5:1, mild acceleration around 14.5:1, lean cruise ~15.5:1 and hard acceleration around 13:1.

If anyone else is interested in doing the same, here is the guide: SteveSprint Remap 14CUX

You need Roverguage to see which part of the fuel-map you are currently running in.
You need a wide-band oxygen sensor and gauge to know how rich/lean you are currently running.
You need TunerPro (free tuning software) and the TunerPro 14CUX definition (XDF) file to easily identify maps and edit them.
You need "14CUX Toolkit" to correct the checksumms and duplicate your changes to the rest of the chop.
You need a chip-burner an 28C256 EEPROM chips (28 pin) to write and re-write with your changes.

One bit which wasted a bit of my time, Rovergauge said i was on "Map 1". But in the Tunerpro XDF that was referred to as "Map 0".
Making changes to Map 1 acheived nothing, but Map 0 responded as it should.
Steve covers this in the fine-print on the page linked above.

I'm now looking forward to burning less than 20 litres/100km for the first time since I've owned this thirsty beast.