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jose, just how 'easy' would it be to run a tdci 2.4 puma engine in another vehicle? most likely the immobiliser etc would be the worst part to overcome:(.
there are no intank pumps, or excessively complex fuel arrangements so in some ways easier than a td5 to transplant into another vehicle...
jc
Ok I will ask why?Quote:
Originally Posted by td5inside
Immobiliser is in fact pretty easy. It runs the same 10as unit as the td5 so, you can either buy the loom with immobiliser and just disable all the remote fob functions, etc, or you simply remove the immobiliser in the visteon ECU.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
The main question here is, do you really want a 2.4 puma engine and that aweful gearbox:)
i agree the 6 spd trans is pretty aweful, was thinking about sticking it infront of an LT95 for reliability sake in an early 110...., if we get to the point of not being allowed to run older diesel engines here. the tdci is easy to rebuild, compact, lightweight and relatively cheap, too. i am a lover of the td5, but having just rebuilt a puma engine i am impressed with their simplicity, unitary major component design and already equipped with vnt they would be a good unit if set up right.Quote:
Originally Posted by td5inside
just thinkin'....:angel:
jc
Except LR deleted the MANN+HUMMEL bypass centrifuge fitted to the transit version (and the TD5). Better to start with a transit engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Continuing this:Quote:
Originally Posted by djam1
Axles
Again, compromisse is the key. I run 33 to 35 inchs tyres, so rover type axles are ok . I´m using maxidrive halfshafts with ashcroft cv joints and ARB air lockers. Diffs are pegged. My propshafts are also stock.
I´ve also made the all axle stronger in the outside to prevent it from bending when jumping :)
Here´s my axle :)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...29391095_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...50141513_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...14769592_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...13693370_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...54549050_n.jpg
Rover axles cannot handle tyres above 35", being reliable.
The first route we went 5 or 6 years ago (with a good friend, Quinel) was to buy some salisbury front and rear axle and make it a true Dana 60 with rear 35spline and front 30 spline. This is actually bulletproof an has the advantage of using all the original mounting brackets, so it was just a matter of taking care of inside the axles and then bolt it tho the car. Main problem with this axles is ground clearence and weight and, at this moment, availability of front salisbury cases. Price was also a bit high, arround 7 to 8000 euros (pair) depending on the steel price.
This lead us to another route. Using nissan Patrol GQ y61 axles. These are in fact very strong axles, with the advantage of good ground clearence and easy availability in terms of parts. The downsize is the fact that the diff offset off the axle case is in the opositte side, wich makes it prety hard to fit it in a 90" car, without the propshaft vibrating a lot. The 90" in which we fit this axles, was stretched to 100" with costum made propshafts and the problem was solved :)
These can be run with stock parts, but if you want full confident in the material, rear nissan difflock should be change for an ARB unit and front cv joints and propshafts should be change with either RCV or trailgear parts.
Another problem with this axles its ring and pinion ratio. Nissan axles tend to be very reduced in the axles cause the gear+transferboxes are very long. Land rover´s are normaly very reduced in gearbox. We found the 3.0 di automatic ring and pinion 4.03 ratio to be excelent with the land rover gear+transferbox ratio and big tires...
Next step, at least for me, is to try and have a bolt on very cost effective upgraded brakes....
And this is how land rovers and general 4x4 works. Always trying to make things better and testing them...on the paper, lots of things work. On the field, thats a diferent story :)
hmmm, i service a few tdci transits, no centrifuge on the 2006 and 2008 models i have seen. they do take a different oil filter cartridge from the lr variant though.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
also transits run a dual mass flywheel, defenders don't but that obviously can be sorted out.
Should be fitted to transit 2.4 Tdci 2006-on???Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
C9061 OIL FILTER CENTRIFUGE 2.4L TURBO 2006- FORD ZR7001 1372808... - Compare Prices and Deals, Shop & Buy Online in Australia at MyShopping.com.au
ah, actually you may be right there ben, i have a feeling i may be a bit out with my manufacturing dates. i can check up on one in particular tomorrow.
jc
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
I found the tdci puma very intesting for cruising along and for travelling. I dare say that, car is much more drivable on the road in its "stock form" that a td5.
Its not exactly the engine... Its not easy have hp from it, but it does generate a lot of torque, and the vnt makes it very responsive!
Heres a dyno chart from a td4 with one of our remaps, with bigger intercooler and stock turbo (170cv and 490nm) (Off course this data have to be validated by a true engineer with maths and theorys :twisted: ).
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...79643988_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...90311520_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...03538564_n.jpg
Reliability issues apart (gearbox seams crap to me), the problem is offroading... We are still trying to go through some aspects wich are electronic comanded (for example, If you are standing still, @ idle, the car does not let you accelerat above 3500 rpm- we are ok with that.
What we are not ok is, with car standing still, if you put the clutch pedal down, engage a gear, and then also foot on the throttle, when you release the clutch the car simply want go... it should have a torque limiter wich is not good for offroading! If you do that with little movement - 3 or 4km/h - car will go like a rocket ( If you are standing still in a step climb, and want to get off, little movement its not an option :)
But main problem for me its gear ratio...and here we go again with theory vs real life... yes, in theory having a lower 1st gear and an extra 6th gear seams very good, but, the actual gear ratios are not exactly good. Reverse low gear is aweful when offroading.
Imagine this: you get stuck in a mud hole and the only way to get out is to go is back, with standard gearing the car does not gain enough will spin (and speed) to get lose. (Most times in this situation´s High gear is not an option).
So, we are trying to make the car "longer". First step was to fit 35" tyres, wich helped. We have know found a 2.83 ring and pinion from Kam and we found out that maybe, this can put the pumas gear ratio very similar to td5:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...13086182_n.jpg
Standard Td4
High Low
First Gear 23.33:1 63.97:1
Second Gear 12.17:1 33.37:1
Third Gear 07.38:1 20.23:1
Fourth Gear 05.24:1 14.37:1
Fifth Gear 04.29:1 11.75:1
Sixth Gear 03.18:1 08.72:1
Td4 with 2.83
High Low
First Gear 18.65:1 51.14:1
Second Gear 09.73:1 26.67:1
Third Gear 05.90:1 16.17:1
Fourth Gear 04.19:1 11.49:1
Fifth Gear 03.43:1 09.40:1
Sixth Gear 02.54:1 06.97:1
Td5
High Low
First Gear 18.43:1 43.40:1
Second Gear 10.64:1 25.06:1
Third Gear 06.97:1 16.42:1
Fourth Gear 04.99:1 11.76:1
Fifth Gear 03.84:1 09.05:1
The owner of this puma had a highly tuned vnt td5 before, so he is a bit desapointed with the ford engine and I´f the problem is not solved, he will probably retrofit the engine to a td5 :)