How to get 400Nm from RRC

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Originally Posted by uninformed

I guess there is those that feel it totally safe and are running it, so great for them......one question, how does the R380 put up with 500nm?

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SOME of them are fine :o, I have a certain customer with a 1999 Td5 defender that has been chipped from almost new, it now has 360,000km up, and was used by John Davis to develop the chip and intercoolers in 1999/2000 according to the first owner.

This vehicle has a much more aggressive tune than any of their upgrades I have driven, and a nice big FMIC too.

I would say easily 400Nm, and about 150KW.

No trans issues at all yet, 1 clutch and flywheel, and just audible noises from 5th gear bearings.

JC

Both the gearbox and transfer are holding up fine. Dont say they will last 200.000kms with this tune, but they have been running good!
We use special LE engeniereng oil in the transfer box.

And now some smoke pornography :)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...e=3&permPage=1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...e=3&permPage=1


I´m gona open a new thread about something very special we did this weekend, something that justifies these videos, so that i dont go even more offtopic here...

Regards,

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Originally Posted by td5inside

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...e=3&permPage=1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...e=3&permPage=1

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If you keep showing videos like that I might start doubting the superiority of the V8's and have to get myself an oiler.

Lol :)

Some more in this thread

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/xtreme-zon...-portugal.html

Hi there ritters conversion 308holden Brock heads extractors 2.5" exhaust 4 barrel Rochester 727 torqueflite.
I have owned 7 RRC over the years always the problem with3.5efi. Small willing 3.5 but underpowered. Had a 4.4 P76
With crow cam and extractors. Great motor great torque 400 plus nm.....do not like to be revved but I went everywhere in 2 or 3 rd low.also alloy and heat don't mix.
The 308 is old technology but super reliable and great torque. And bush ability 9/10. the auto as far as repair in the bush precludes a ten.The only downfall is the super strong torqueflite which
Sucks a bit of horsepower but the reliability is great. 7 years and regular high country trips. Never use more than 2000/2500 off road and does it very easily.

Going back to the early pages here, and correct me if I'm wrong, but the 4.6L Bosch motors in P38's are making 410nm stock, and the gems were not far behind...

If it were me and it was a classic I owned, I'd be putting an injected 304 in from a VN with a high torque camshaft. If funds allowed I would even stroke it. 5.7L and easily 500nm there on a reliable motor.

If its auto I'd be building a TH700 and putting one of Wholesale Auto's converter lockup units in with the good valve bodies.

Depends on your preference, iron or alloy really! But as far as basic injected V8's go, the old 304 is pretty simple and reliable as!

For diesel, I wouldn't muck around. Straight to the Isuzu camp and put a turbo on it as well.

Cheers
Keithy

I reckon Keithys almost spot on here.

I'd suggest the VT 304 rather then the VN as components are likely to be in better nick and the VT was the most powerful factory incarnation with a sensible cam. Anything Rovered is more likely to be compromised by electrics, overheating or parts availability.

Engine Conversion rule 1 - Choose the closest, reliable and available factory and unmodified engine to your goal, make a budget, then double it.

Diesel options imo are Modded TD5, 4BD1 or an option few consider 13BT and 14BT Toyota motors from Dynas.

PS Apologies for dragging up an old thread, didn't realise what page I was on.....