Thread: Finishing someone else's unfinished project.

Is the threaded three wire device a latching solenoid? Fuel cut off?

Don't know about rover but toyo uses the AFM flap as a cutout for the fuel pump. I did a conversion once and ended up having the thing run even with ign off as, as long as the flap is open (air flow sucks it open) the pump is powered.

It had a pair of relays, the first switched on by the AFM, the second switched by the ignition switch. They were powered from different sources though, first relay powered from the second, the second from the battery.

That mean that if it stalled power was cut via the AFM switch which turned the first relay off, even if the ignition remained on. This turned the pump off.

When turning the vehicle off, it cut switching power to the second relay which cut power to the first and turned the pump off. As the engine stopped air flow ceased and the AFM flap closed it also shut off the switching power to the first relay.

So with ign switch at on, both relays were powered up but not turned on (apart from a 5 second bypass circuit to pressurise the fuel rail). When cranked, the vacuum would open the AFM flap and turn the second relay on powering up the pump.

Sorry if it's a bit long winded, it's been 10+ years since I touched one and it's all from memory. Check the AFM terminals for one that turns on when the flap is opened. Hopefully it works on similar principles.

We're talking 14CUX EFI here? I had an issue when I stuck a 3.9 injected engine in my RRC. It would crank but not fire. Turns out when I did the wiring, I missed signal wire to the ECU that shows it the engine is turning - it is a feed from the coil through a resistor, to an input on the ECU.

I'm away from home until tomorrow night, so I can't go and check exactly what it was. Unless I posted about this in my build thread on it. I'll check...

EDIT - ok, terminal 39 is the Vehicle speed sensor input. It is a white/black wire that needs to pick up from the negative side of the coil through a 6.8K ohm resistor.

It won't inject a drop of fuel without this signal.

This is a handy guide to the 14CUX system - Rover-14CUX-EFI

Baci - No EFI, the motor is from 1988 so it would be a flapper but has a Edelbrock 1404 carburettor/Performer intake instead. No computers will find their way into the car. I've done Beeutey's Bosch BIM-024 conversion with a Bosch MEC-717 coil and using a DM8 distributor.

After I completed the Bosch conversion and found I had good spark but the motor still wouldn't start I set the motor to TDC with a feeler (flat screwdriver) on #1. Cleaned, correctly gapped and reinstalled all plugs and made sure all leads were secure etc. The motor would then only run if the starter was kept engaged, so I did multi-meter checks on the coil and found I had lost switch power. Then I took apart, cleaned, re-greased and reassembled the ignition switch and then, finally, the motor would run by itself.

Edit: Just ran everything through my head and worked out what I was doing wrong. Stupid oversight! Hopefully should be running* tomorrow...


*I will most likely be making another problem post tomorrow evening.

working on it
cheers, i just got some longer cables from the US, hoping to connect to the throttle peddle then...just moved house and had a trip down south...normal Darwin dramas
hopefully going to get stuck back into it next weekend. had a bloke from the wreckers in shady glen pop over and give me some advice on the brackets that i got from them.
however still keen to look at someone elses set up.

Skon, invitation still open when you get a moment. I also have standard V8 RRC, and Disco with ZF box to look at.

So it's now starting straight away and it's running smoothly, sort of. But (there's always a "but" with neglected Rangies) the valve-train sounds, well, not very good at all. Piston #5 is completely covered in wet oil when viewed through the spark plug hole and doing a screwdriver stethoscope check along the rocker covers seems to indicate excessive tapping from around the vicinity of #3-#5 and #6-#8.

I've got a video which I might upload at some point but I've mainly filmed it for reference. I'm going to take the rocker covers off and see if anything is visually obvious, then take the intake and valley gasket out and check what I can without having to pull the heads off, which will inevitably happen I think.

Oh well, at least I already have to take the intake to a head shop to have a mount welded back together. So I'll try to only make one trip.

I did my first compression test and from what I can tell, all the rings apart from piston #1 are worn and I either have a completely stuck valve in #5 or worse. Every piston has a fair bit of carbon build-up too. It still runs rather well albeit a bit rough, considering the outcome of the test. So with no compression at all in one cylinder I have no choice but to pull the heads. Damn.

Compression test results:

8) 150 7) 150
6) 149 5) 0
4) 151 3) 154
2) 154 1) 152

With a squirt of SAE30 -

8) 180 7) 172
6) 180 5) 0
4) 180 3) 190
2) 180 1) 154

#5 and #8 plugs were oily, #1 and #4 were half tan half black and #2, #3, #6, #7 all fouled.


Depending how it looks inside when I pull the heads, I'm considering turning the 3.5 block into a coffee table and dropping in a 3.9 I have. Either way it looks like a visit to the head shop and a VRS kit. The 3.9 was dual fuel and then straight LPG so I am unsure of what the heads are even like on that motor.