Thread: 89 Classic central locking fitment

Hi guys,

Im trying to fit a aftermarket remote kit to my Range Rover's central locking. After some messing around with wiring and only getting the passenger doors to lock/unlock, I realized that the drivers door actuator only has four wires. I purchased a five wire off of Ebay, fit and tested it.

Now I can get it to actuate, BUT what I cant get it to do is lock the drivers side door. I think there is a bit of resistance with the linkages and Im yet to lubricate them all, but I have been playing with different linkage lengths to see if I can get it to overcome the resistance instead of pushing the linkage to the sides.

Hopefully somebody out there has done something like this before and can steer me in the right direction. Photos would be of extra help as well.

Oh, and the reason for the upgrade is that I am sick of playing with keys, trying to unlock the ol'girl in the cold rain of Adelaide..

Thanks in advance for your help!!

Hi Swarvey

I am doing something similar. I also bought the same Jaycay response system and I'm fitting it to an ?89 classic. I started with the rear doors and drilled new holes in the plate because I figured that the original holes made it too tight even with the actuator fully retracted and it would therefore not allow the snipper button to go up high enough to allow the door to unlock and open. I have the rear passenger working ok (just) but the rear driver door actuator will not push up hard enough or straight enough to lock the door.

I've kind of given up on the back doors for the moment and tried to move onto the front doors in the hope that I learn something that will work on the back. What I've found with all of them is that there is so much play in the internal locking mechanism because of its complexity (and age) that a lot of the force is being absorbed in the links and the actuators are struggling to lock successfully (unlocking seems for be ok). Also it would seem that because the first link (the one that connects to the actuator) can swing sideways that a lot of upward movement is absorbed going slightly sideways each time it pushes out.

Did you find this and if so how did you get around it? Did you use the attachments that come with the response system to replace any linkages?

I have suspected that the earth may not be as good as it could be so I've manually earthed the front driver's door actuator to the car independent of the internal wiring to test it but this made little difference. I've also tried to clean all the links inside each of the doors (which isn't easy given their location) with a tooth brush to remove any old grease that may have become sticky so that I can then lubricate them with RP7. This has helped the movement a bit but not enough to get it working properly.

Can you offer any advice?

Cheers,

Peter