Thread: Boge Load Leveller On Early Classics

Thanks, good info. To add, I drilled and tapped for grease nipples, the top and bottom housing for the ball joints. Hopefully this will extend the working life of my "yet to be fitted" Load Leveller.

Jack, do you have the travel lengths for both the 2 door and 4 door LL units?

cheers
Serg

Looks like you've been doing your homework! Where did you see that there are two types? I've only got NRC4163 listed in my book. I took a leveller off a 2-door and put it on my 4-door with no problems.

I suppose I should write up that fitting tutorial I've been meaning to do with all the photos I took . . . ages ago.

The bloke at WW Shockabsorbers said there were two lengths, the 4 door being 25mm longer.
I've taken him at his word, given I only have a 2 door example.

In my rubbish Brooklands reprint of the '85 Spare Parts cattle dog, there shows only the one one example, as you've quoted.
My genuine 1978 cattle dog shows a different part number ( 90575877 ) the 4 door release being another 4 years down the track.

Perhaps at one time, there were different lengths of travel, then superceded to the later part and part number for replacement purposes.
Maybe it is a furphy, certainly at this stage, the different lengths are unsubstantiated.

Davo, please post your fitting tutorial to add to the thread. Great idea.

Personally I think removing them is the best idea.

IMHO when the unit is presurised it turns the vehicle into a tricycle with all the instability that entails, particularly with pre-antiroll bar equipped models.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Personally I think removing them is the best idea.

IMHO when the unit is presurised it turns the vehicle into a tricycle with all the instability that entails, particularly with pre-antiroll bar equipped models.

Diana

I can never work out why people write things like this. The guys who designed the vehicle were particularly good engineers and knew what they were doing. The leveller was an excellent way to have both a soft suspension and load-carrying. The design has been well-proven for over forty years. And I haven't found any tricycle-like characteristics on my car.

Originally Posted by jackafrica

The bloke at WW Shockabsorbers said there were two lengths, the 4 door being 25mm longer.
I've taken him at his word, given I only have a 2 door example.

In my rubbish Brooklands reprint of the '85 Spare Parts cattle dog, there shows only the one one example, as you've quoted.
My genuine 1978 cattle dog shows a different part number ( 90575877 ) the 4 door release being another 4 years down the track.

Perhaps at one time, there were different lengths of travel, then superceded to the later part and part number for replacement purposes.
Maybe it is a furphy, certainly at this stage, the different lengths are unsubstantiated.

Davo, please post your fitting tutorial to add to the thread. Great idea.

Yes, I really should get onto that. Feel free to nag.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Personally I think removing them is the best idea.

IMHO when the unit is presurised it turns the vehicle into a tricycle with all the instability that entails, particularly with pre-antiroll bar equipped models.

Diana

The tricycle flop only happens when you have mismatched springs and weight carried on diagonal corners. This is easily fixed.

Jack the vehicle up central front and see if the rear sits evenly. If it doesn't you need to swap or pack springs until it either sits level or has the 5-10mm standard lean to the drivers side (owner preference).
Repeat for the other end.

Get it sitting level like this and it'll behave itself perfectly on road. Get mis-matched springs which force diagonal load carrying and it'll flop in corners.

Originally Posted by Dougal

The tricycle flop only happens when you have mismatched springs and weight carried on diagonal corners. This is easily fixed.

Jack the vehicle up central front and see if the rear sits evenly. If it doesn't you need to swap or pack springs until it either sits level or has the 5-10mm standard lean to the drivers side (owner preference).
Repeat for the other end.

Get it sitting level like this and it'll behave itself perfectly on road. Get mis-matched springs which force diagonal load carrying and it'll flop in corners.

You miss my point. The Boge unit is an active system which pressurises whilst the vehicle is in motion.

The springs support the vehicle almost above the wheels making a stable 4-point platform.

In motion when the vehicle is tail heavy, with the mass supported by the springs, the Boge unit pressurises to push up the body making the ride level. This removes pressure, and therefore stability, off the springs and transfers the rear mass to the "A" frame making the rear into a see-saw (three point platform) and therefore unstable.